Engine: New Rocker Adjuster Screw

[Skybolt]

Just received some new rocker adjuster screws from SI and I don't know if I received the right items. This is not to say that I will not contact them but as it is later on the East coast I thought this might answer the questions I have.

First the part I requested was 1550360 for 1961-64 V8 adjuster screws. What I received has no relief between the upper threads and the lower threads, meaning the thread goes from top to bottom and looks like a bolt. Has anyone seen these before? Also the hole that runs through it is much larger than the ones I has seen before. Does anyone know what i have here or is this the latest ones that I have not had on any V8 before?

Len.

[Mike Van Veghten]

Originally...there were at least two different adjusters. One had a 1/2" hex, the other had a 9/16" hex.
There were other differences that went with the hex size. One was the thread diameter/pitch, one as you note the non-threaded portion. Another was the fully threaded version is also slightly shorter than the non-fully threaded version. This make no difference. The later design was fully threaded.

I'd say...if what you have has the correct thread pitch, use it, you'll be fine. Though note, if the "nut" portion is thicker than the rest of your adjusters, and the positions you are putting these into are close to running out of adjustment, you may have an adjustment problem.
Don't be concerned about the oil feed hole. Won't hurt anything unless you have race type springs (200lbs. on the seat). Then the larger feed hole could be both good and bad.
Good, grabs and feeds more oil to the adjuster cup/push rod interface.
Bad, takes bearing surface away from the adjuster/push rod interface.

One thing I would check...make sure that the adjuster cup...properly fits the push rod ball. I've seen after market adjusters that weren't what they were advertised..! Use a light dab of white grease fully coating the push rod ball, "lightly" seat it fully into the adjuster. The grease should transfer "fully" to the surface of the adjusted cup.

Mike

[Skybolt]

So what I have are 1963-64 adjusters?

I have had cars with V8 engines from 1960 through 1964 and have never seen these before. The ones I have in the 63 V8 look like the ones I'm used to, with the groove part the way up with two distinct threaded areas. I have just never seen this type before.

Len

[PackardV8]

There are at least three, maybe four different adjusters and at least two different rocker arms. Since there are plenty of both still extant, I see no advantage to putting in an adjuster different than those you removed.

jack vines

[Dwain G.]

These look like the second design of that part number. Changes were Parko-Lubrizing (dry lube) and re-contoured socket area. If your engine serial number is V511761, P74841 or higher, these are the correct screws. If your engine serial is lower, you should use 1541806.

[Skybolt]

Thanks Dwain, I'll look into that when I get home.

[Quentin]

The ones I have in the 63 V8 look like the ones I'm used to, with the groove part the way up with two distinct threaded areas. I have just never seen this type before.

Len

Ditto, Len - I have a JT1209, and a P101something-or-other, both 1963 engines. Both came with the "hourglass" rocker adjusters, with 2 threaded areas separated by 1/4" - top thread is 3 1/2 turns, bottom thread 10 or so. Mind you, the definitely original engine to the 63 Hawk P engine is partial flow, so our Studebakers can be a bit peculiar down here!

[doofus]

Len, look at your rockers. if the oil hole is below the top surface 1/8 inch or so you need the "wasted" rockers. if oil hole comes out right at top you need the thin wall adjuster screw. luck Doofus

[stude dude]

Ditto, Len - I have a JT1209, and a P101something-or-other, both 1963 engines. Both came with the "hourglass" rocker adjusters, with 2 threaded areas separated by 1/4" - top thread is 3 1/2 turns, bottom thread 10 or so. Mind you, the definitely original engine to the 63 Hawk P engine is partial flow, so our Studebakers can be a bit peculiar down here!

Quentin, your original 1963 Hawk engine is indeed a full flow motor set up to use a bypass type filter by the factory, as with all other 1962-64 RHC V8 Hawks due to limited clearance between the filter adapter base and the pitman arm. If you look at the drivers side lower area of the block you will see a cast block-off plate. A slightly modified filter base and a smaller capacity oil filter allows this conversion to be done with about 30 mins work.

[Skybolt]

These look like the second design of that part number. Changes were Parko-Lubrizing (dry lube) and re-contoured socket area. If your engine serial number is V511761, P74841 or higher, these are the correct screws. If your engine serial is lower, you should use 1541806.

Just checked the engine number and it's V573040. As far as I know the engine was a low milage 63 but all the rocker screws are the "hourglass", "wasted" style pictured in the middle of the last picture.

Len, look at your rockers. if the oil hole is below the top surface 1/8 inch or so you need the "wasted" rockers. if oil hole comes out right at top you need the thin wall adjuster screw. luck Doofus

Is this what is meant by the oil holes come out at the top of the rocker adjuster screw hole.



This is the rocker that came with the first screw in the picture below with the three screws.


Here are the three styles I have. The first is from a mid 50's with the small oil hole in the "waste" area of the screw.

Note: They all have the same size hex head.

So, with the early style I have the oil moves through the rocker arm hole to the screw, then through the hole in the side of the screw to the tip of the pushrod. Gravity takes it down the interior of the screw to the pushrod.
With the style that came with the 63 engine the oil comes through the rocker and makes its way over the top of the screw and down through the screw to the pushrod. Pressure ends once it leaves the hole in the rocker. Gravity takes it down the interior of the screw to the pushrod.

[doofus]

I believe you have struck the nail on the head, congrats. Doofus

[rkapteyn]

Skybolt
Thanks so much for your post , finally nailing this down and your pictures.
Would you be able and willing to add part numbers and which lifter needs which adjuster so when this is archived for future generations it will be all in one place.
Related post from 1914 http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...s-and-pushrods That seems to do just that.
Robert Kapteyn