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Supercharger pulley availability? and do you need to get new Tensioner Springs?

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  • Fuel System: Supercharger pulley availability? and do you need to get new Tensioner Springs?

    Hi,
    starting to tear apart (to clean up and rebuild engine) my Golden Hawk's supercharger assembly (bracket/mount/tensioner)

    I noticed the tensioner pulley is riveted, thus the bearing (which has an integral stud, not just any old bearing) is not replaceable, at least without drilling the rivets, IF you could get that bearing assembly.
    Mine is "resistant' to turning, though I don't feel 'rough spots'.. MIGHT be ok, but sure easier to replace now than after it starts squealing on me someday!
    Part number is 1542345, Pulley, Supercharger Idler. I couldn't find it online in any catalog listings, though have not emailed those who don't list their parts...
    Suggestions?
    Also related to the Supercharger, wondering if it is generally considered 'wise' to replace the two tensioner springs (or whether these typically are 'good forever"; and if so, are they a bugger to get apart and back together, better to leave them alone even for cleaning and painting? I'd rather ask before trying to pull it apart and having it fly across the shop like a bullet. Especially if not really useful task.
    Photo of both attached. Thanks!!
    Click image for larger version

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  • #2
    I would think the springs would be good but are you sure that's not a press fit bearing?

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    • #3
      Studebaker improved that idler pulley in '63 for the Hawks and Larks with superchargers.....they went to a cast iron pulley with pressed in replaceable bearing held in place by a "C" clip.

      Try to locate one of those....that's what I did on my '57 setup!

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      • #4
        The stud isn't integral with the bearing. You do have to drill out the rivets in the pulley, after removing the pulley and stud from the arm. That can be difficult. The rivets can be replaced with screws and nuts. Taking the whole thing apart makes it easier to sand and paint. The bearing is a standard ball bearing. I think mine was a "New Departure", and had a # on it. If yours isn't ruined, you may be able to clean and repack it. There's an "O" ring around the bearing to keep grease from slinging onto the drive belt.
        It's been several years since I took a tensioner apart. I don't remember any special difficulty. Try making a compressor from a couple of wood scraps and bolts. It never occurred to me to replace the springs. I just wanted to clean lube and paint it.
        Mike M.

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        • #5
          Thanks guys. That is what I was afraid of. I'll ask around for the later one; or maybe take my chances with mine; it might be fine, just a little "thick" in there (grease) but not pitted. Doesn't spin freely, but doesn't feel like any rough spots either. Kind of a poor design, unless you never consider it will ever be replaced..... (but then look at modern cars; I don't think they consider anyone is ever going to have to WORK on them, considering how hard most things are to get at or 'out'! :-)

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          • #6
            For bushing 1542363 on R2 idler pulley replace with Ford B7AZ2471A, also 1543914 on the clutch bell crank.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Alan View Post
              For bushing 1542363 on R2 idler pulley replace with Ford B7AZ2471A, also 1543914 on the clutch bell crank.
              that's if you drill/remove the rivets and press the post out, right? (simply the replacement bearing number for the original "New Departure" bearing?
              Might come to that, thanks. A pain, but not impossible.
              Barry

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              • #8
                Originally posted by bsrosell View Post
                that's if you drill/remove the rivets and press the post out, right? (simply the replacement bearing number for the original "New Departure" bearing?
                Might come to that, thanks. A pain, but not impossible.
                Barry
                No, Alan is referring to the later ('63-'64) supercharger idler pulley. The bearing for that one is also used in newer alternators.... I'd have to look up the applications, but it's available at local FLAPS!

                PS....... it's not a BUSHING Alan.....it's a SEALED BALL BEARING!

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Alan View Post
                  For bushing 1542363 on R2 idler pulley replace with Ford B7AZ2471A, also 1543914 on the clutch bell crank.
                  This is the nylon tension arm BUSHING, and also the clutch pivot shoulder bolt bushings. Also they are the brake, and clutch pedal shaft bushings. They are not the bearing for the pulley however.
                  Bez Auto Alchemy
                  573-318-8948
                  http://bezautoalchemy.com


                  "Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln

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                  • #10
                    That's right Bez, but one of the first things that get beat out.

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                    • #11
                      You can purchase an aftermarket tensioner spring from Dave Thibeault - 978.897.3158.

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