63 avanti headlight switch

[charlotte1963]

having trouble with my headlight switch contact getting extremly hot, ruining my switch. don't want to replace switch until problem eleminated. tks. has anyone had similar prob. tks.

[70Avanti2]

May wish to place relays in headlight circuit to reduce load on switch. Esp if you are using higher wattage bulbs.

[Mike]

One of the sheet metal screws that secures the stainless molding to the right side windshield pillar, on my '64, punctured a wire to my parking lights. The short, (maybe only when the body was wet), melted the head light switch rocker. The previous owner had removed the screws and filed the sharp tips off; but I found the puncture, green with corrosion. I replaced the screws with shorter ones; and filed the tips.
The harness to the overhead switches, at least on a '64, can be pulled back to under the dash if you cut off the terminals at the switches. I think '63 may be a little different. There's a QD plug near the fuse box. Tie a cord to the wires so you can pull them back in place after repairs. You have to remove all the screws that go into the area. I replaced the wire from the circuit breaker to the switch with a heavier gauge, and used a ring terminal at the beaker instead of the original QD. There was room for a piece of corrugated plastic conduit in the post to protect the wires better. Flag type 1/4" QD terminals are available from Radio Shack or Rhode Island Wire. You need flag type rather than spade for clearance at the switches.
Relays for the headlights are a good idea. Replacements for the breaker are available, cheap, in different sizes.
Another likely area for a short is in the wire harness to the lights, under the battery.
Mike M.

[Bud]

I installed relays in the headlight circuit of my 63 Avanti. The relays took the load off of both the headlight and dimmer switches. The headlights are brighter and so are the tail lights and instrument lights since the load has been reduced on the headlight switch and associated wiring. Bud

[gordr]

Is it permissible to say that those overhead switches were a nifty "gee whiz" gimmick that proved to be neither convenient to use or to service? And that the rocker-type switches used by Studebaker were not exactly the most durable of their kind? The old reliable pull-knob headlight switch, with integral twist-knob panel dimmer, as used by most Brand X's at the time has proven to be both more convenient to use, and easier to service. I have a Triumph TR6 which also used a rocker lighting switch with a remote panel dimmer rheostat, and I replaced the crummy Lucas switch with one of those pull-knob jobs from a Ford. Helped to clean up the rat's nest of wires behind the dash. And looks just fine, too.

[Mike]

I like the overhead switches. It seems like a natural location. I'm not crazy about the way they are paired; supposedly to imitate aircraft circuit breakers. A rheostat does seem like a better choice for dash lights. I consider the switches a feature of the Avanti and will leave them stock as far as operation goes.
They are probably big enough for the job. My headlight switch overheated only because of a short. You can take them apart. to clean the contacts.
It gets a little crowded, if you replace small wires with larger ones. That's another reason for relays.
Mike M.

[rkapteyn]

There are original headlight switches and repops used on the Avantis
The original switches had copper terminals and the repops have a stainless steel
look.The repops were probably made for the Avanti ll.
The problem with a lot of the repop electrical switches is the material they use for the contacts.
The original switches used silver contacts and the repops sometimes used some type of alloy that does not work as well as silver and burn sooner.
Always use a relay with the replacement switches to take the load of the contacts.
Robert Kapteyn