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  • Steering: tie rod ends

    Just got this car couple weeks a go. It's a 1953 champion . Going to put new a-arm bushings in.Somebody his change the steering big time .It still has the stock a-arms and king pins and shocks,but the steering gear box ,pitman arm, tie rod ends,drag link,idler arm. is different.Went to take off tie rod ends off and the nut was tight and had cotter pin in it. but it was loose in the steering arm.Took nut off it drop right out. Anyway i like to have the dimensions of a stock outer tie rod end or i would buy a worn out one from somebody so i could take measurements and see what they done and see if i can fix this mess.The person i got this from drove it like this for 8 years. Thanks

  • #2
    New tie rod ends are all over the place.....

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    • #3
      It's not stock tie rod ends, its from something else. Stock tie rod ends wont work. Not going to buy a new tie rod end that doesn't work. Looks like they might have drill hole bigger in steering arm, thats why i need dimensions from stock one.

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      • #4
        New steering arm?
        -------------------
        Daddy always said, if yer gonna be dumb, you gotta be tough & I\'m one tough sumbiatch!

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        • #5
          .547" on the small side and .612" on the large side.

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          • #6
            I was told same as a 60's Ford pickup.

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            • #7
              Is there a flat metal plate used to adapt the steering box to the frame?
              Restorations by Skip Towne

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Alan View Post
                .547" on the small side and .612" on the large side.
                THANK YOU , need one more measurement and thats the height, large end to small end and small end to end of threaded part.

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                • #9
                  Yes, the steering box and pit arm is from a 1963-66 chevy ll . Its a saginaw manual steering box . I don't know what the rest is ,tie rod ends,idlearm .

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                  • #10
                    The heights move around between .650"- .660". The steering arms are as forged and not all the same or machined. From where the upper tie rod end is to the threads is approx. .800". I do not go by that. I put the tie rod end into the steering arm and look up to see that when you can not move the tie rod end in anymore by hand you should have at least.030" to .050" of the shoulder up inside the hole. If the shoulder is flush or sticks out, your hole is too big. The Stude uses common tie rod ends that you can buy at Speedway or others that fit Fords from the 20's through the 70's for $19 for steel and #39 each for stainless. And since you have an odd ball combo, how about some pics?

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Alan View Post
                      The heights move around between .650"- .660". The steering arms are as forged and not all the same or machined. From where the upper tie rod end is to the threads is approx. .800". I do not go by that. I put the tie rod end into the steering arm and look up to see that when you can not move the tie rod end in anymore by hand you should have at least.030" to .050" of the shoulder up inside the hole. If the shoulder is flush or sticks out, your hole is too big. The Stude uses common tie rod ends that you can buy at Speedway or others that fit Fords from the 20's through the 70's for $19 for steel and #39 each for stainless. And since you have an odd ball combo, how about some pics?
                      Thanks again Alan.Try to send some pics this coming week. That helps that ford will work .I'll take some measurements of overall length from end to end and see what the threaded part measure is that go's into the adjustment sleeve and what the thread pitch it is. It's longer then the stock one. Going to call Moog and if they can send me some info on different tie rod ends. Tell them that ford will work on one end and i will get the length and thread pitch and diameter on the other end that will give them something to go by.

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                      • #12
                        The tapered hole in a steering arm can be stretched large by over-tightening a tie rod end. Installing a new tie rod end results in the nut bottoming out on the tie rod shaft taper. I had a Ford truck like that. I put a flat washer under the nut and the taper locked up. The washer must have a hole a little larger than the taper small end.
                        james r pepper

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                        • #13
                          The Ford numbers are C1UZ3A131A and C4UZ3A131A. The replace Stude # 530204

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                          • #14
                            Alan both of those numbers are around $20. at Rockauto.

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                            • #15
                              " .547" on the small side and .612" on the large side. "
                              " The heights move around between .650"- .660". "

                              That translates to about 5.6 degrees included angle.

                              Looks like Speedway's ball joint reamers are 7 or 10 degrees. They say the small end of the reamer is a little less than .5 inch, so should work with a part .547" small opening.

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