Electrical: GM style alternator

[BRUCESTUDE]

This winter one of my projects is to update the electrical system on the Lark; can anyone tell me what Delco alternator to use? (Preferably an application so I can look it up that way.) I'm going for the "one wire" type.
Thanks in advance!
Bruce

[53commander]

Tons of threads on this and also check out http://www.fifthaveinternetgarage.com/index.php

[sweetolbob]

I can't help a lot on the alternator but in my experience with SBC's they pretty much all fit as long as the pulley matches your application. It's a matter of using the correct brackets but let me suggest that you consider a conventional one and not the one wire. It only takes the connection of a 12v source from the ignition on circuit and you will also have a charge light if you chose to hook one up. It will also give you a larger selection of inexpensive units and amp ratings and it will charge at all speeds.

The one wire takes rpm to initiate the charge function. Nothing wrong in general with the one wire but I always like to use the normal unit for the added advantages.

Bob

[StudeRich]

I am pretty sure most of the "Alternator Experts" and wiring Gurus all recommend doing it right like the GM Factory did, and that is NOT using an aftermarket 1 Wire "For Dummies" Alternator, but the real Deal Factory 3 wire. Then you get instant Power at startup and other advantages like was done at the factory.

You can get the wiring diagrams from these wiring Pros that sell electrical Parts.

My own opinion is; if you use a 3 wire, you should be able to wire it through the Ammeter like a Studebaker should be, so you will be able to actually READ the output and the draw on the system instantly as it happens, not After the Battery is dying or dead as with a Voltmeter.

Just saying, check out your options first and Buy later.

[Mike Van Veghten]

I've had a "one wire" in my 59 Lark as long as I've owned the car, about 13+ years now.
No problem what-so-ever.

There are various different amperages depending on your needs, high power radio, electric fan(s), electric fuel pump, etc., etc.

Give Summit Racing a gander for the various brands and power output. 90 to 100amp output is a good place to start.

Nothing wrong with a one wire, except that connecting the factory idiot light might be a bit difficult. But either AMP or volt gauges are better anyway. A "volt" gauge is the safer choice.

Mike

[1oldtimer]

If your going to use a warning light (like the stock amp light) or a gauge then why not go with a 3 wire, easy to get at the local parts store and pretty cheap. The single wire is meant so you don't have to hook up anything to it and the 3 wire is meant for a gauge or a warning light. All my cars have a stock 3 wire gm 10si and the lark is going to soon also, all you need to do is connect the wire from the voltage regulator (going to the stock light) to the terminal on the new alt. Just get an alt from a '73-'85 Chevrolet car.

[Dick Steinkamp]

The single wire is meant so you don't have to hook up anything to it and the 3 wire is meant for a gauge or a warning light. .

A 1 wire operates a voltage gauge or ammeter no problem.

The voltage gauge only needs any key on 12V source.

The ammeter takes the power directly from the one wire, then on to the battery like any factory ammeter.

Running an idiot light with a 1 wire is a little tougher.

Traditional one wire alternators "turn on" at about 1200 RPM. But now, some are down to about 880 RPM turn on. Not much more than a cold start on the choke.

[JoeHall]

I have been running 1-wire alternators on Studes for many years, and they work great. I went to instant charge because it was recommended for TBI.. For instant charge upon startup, just like a 3-wire, use one of these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHEVY-DELCO-...dWHVd1&vxp=mtr

Any GM alternator, from 1986 on, is OK. I prefer a 70-75 amp, which powers the EFI and AC just fine.
As for OEM volt/amp gauges, the 1-wire (and probably 3-wire) works just fine with 56J and 62-63GT factory gauges. Not sure about an idiot light.

[garrilla]

I agree with Studerich and others on not using a 1 wire. there's a great explanation on this site; madelectrical.com
Also some excellent reading on using relays for your headlights so they work better.

[garrilla]

A 1 wire operates a voltage gauge or ammeter no problem.

The voltage gauge only needs any key on 12V source.

The ammeter takes the power directly from the one wire, then on to the battery like any factory ammeter.

Running an idiot light with a 1 wire is a little tougher.

Traditional one wire alternators "turn on" at about 1200 RPM. But now, some are down to about 880 RPM turn on. Not much more than a cold start on the choke.

Dick I'd be concerned about sending 75 plus amps through the stock amp gauge. That might have the potential to get a little toasty. There is a method I've read about to run a jumper to the amp meter off of the charge wire to offer some protection from overloading the amp gauge and stock wiring.

[BRUCESTUDE]

Gentlemen! Thanks for all the great info; guess I didn't realize the 3wire/1wire thing, but it makes sense and as I have an idiot light it looks like the 3 wire is easier to figure out.
Bruce

[JoeHall]

It seems there are two schools of thought here. One draws from reading generic info and virtual driving on the internet; the other draws from real world experience driving Studebakers. I guess the OP can take his pick.

[karterfred88]

Gentlemen! Thanks for all the great info; guess I didn't realize the 3wire/1wire thing, but it makes sense and as I have an idiot light it looks like the 3 wire is easier to figure out.
Bruce

Just remember the AMPS of the new unit,-the "idiot light" is set up for 35 AMP alternator, a 100 AMPer will toasty the wires nicely.

[1oldtimer]

The warning light is just a bulb that turns on when the regulator closes or grounds. You're just basically moving it inside the alternator. Also I suggested the use of a 3 wire IF the op wanted to keep the warning light and pointed out the 3 wire is easier to find locally.

[jrlemke]

I used a Delco 10si from auto-zone. There are 4 different ones for G/M. The difference is in the orientation of the two parts of the case. you can use any of them depending on how you want to mount it. You can also change them. I modified the stock Stude generator bracket. -Jim