progress after getting pissed ....

[Restobaker]

So after a couple of failed sells and a lot of thought and frustration, I decided to try and free the 259 one more time...

After doing some research I found out that I could remove the rod caps and re use the old bearings with no issues if they are in good shape.

well low and behold the rod bearings look great and have no scaring or marks. I found out that #4 & #6 piston are stuck all others are free. So I'm hoping with some work I can free up those two and put the motor back together.

if I get it freed up I'm going to purchase new rod bearings and run it 'til it drops.

IF any one has any of the following parts for sale please message me thank you .

distributor

ignition and key

starter for a 3 speed o/d

tail light lens

[StudeRich]

Anyone who may have a Starter would need to know if your 259 V8 is Manual or Automatic Trans.

[Restobaker]

Studerich,

thank you for pointing that out....

the transmission is a 3 speed o/d

[57pack]

I don't have the parts you require but...Working on old cars is sometimes very frustrating! Some days no matter what you try to do, it goes wrong. Drop a bolt and it flys under the work bench and mysteriously vanishes!
When that sort of thing happens, I put the tools down, turn off the lights, walk away, and go back another day.
Good luck with your project, get her running.

[RadioRoy]

Studerich,

thank you for pointing that out....

the transmission is a 3 speed o/d

6 volts or 12?

[Restobaker]

6 volts or 12?

12 volt....

[63t-cab]

Ross, I sent You a PM.

So after a couple of failed sells and a lot of thought and frustration, I decided to try and free the 259 one more time...

After doing some research I found out that I could remove the rod caps and re use the old bearings with no issues if they are in good shape.

well low and behold the rod bearings look great and have no scaring or marks. I found out that #4 & #6 piston are stuck all others are free. So I'm hoping with some work I can free up those two and put the motor back together.

if I get it freed up I'm going to purchase new rod bearings and run it 'til it drops.

IF any one has any of the following parts for sale please message me thank you .

distributor

ignition and key

starter for a 3 speed o/d

tail light lens

[evilhawk]

I might have a distributor that was pulled off a 55 259.. Ill take a look next time I head up where I have my Studebaker stuff stored.

[Robert Crandall]

I sent you a PM.

[Restobaker]

ok so after taking the bottom end apart I'm finding 4 out of 4 are stuck ... I'm afraid to use any force to get them free.


can I tap on the piston from the bottom without damaging it?

if I damage the piston can I replace one piston or how ever many "break" without having to replace the other good ones

is it ok the heat the block only to try to persuade the piston free?

Ive tired soaking the motor in different cocktails so now I need to try brute force .

[Restobaker]

does anyone know where to get a shop Manuel for 1961 Studebaker lark v8 3speed o/d 4 door car? I'm stuck with this old girl I may as well have the Manuel to rebuild the motor correctly.

[T.J lavallee]

Studebaker International or Rock Auto has the manuals. It covers 59' thru 63' and includes engine rebuilding for the six cylinder and the 259 V8 among most everything else you'll need to know to get the old girl running.

[TWChamp]

Can you remove the crankshaft and heads, then use a round wood block a hair smaller than the piston to tap them down, one at a time. With the crankshaft installed you'd be trying to move a lot of stuck parts all at once.

[Restobaker]

the heads are off and the motor is out of the car

I pulled the rod caps but not the mains

1235 are free
4678 are stuck

I don't want to turn the crank bolt with a breaker bar I've seen to many bolts break like that. my neighbor just did that exact thing and snapped off the bolt in the crank snout. needless to say he ended up at a machine shop getting it drilled and re tapped.

[Warren Webb]

Is the crank out? If so I'd try first getting a 2X4 then cutting out the center so that it fits over the rod & you have 2 "legs" of the wood against the piston bottom/wrist pin area & tap the piston out. I assume you've removed any ridge at the top of the cylinders & lube them with some wheel bearing grease or something similar. I haven't been up to this before but if I were in your shoes it would be worth a try.

It just occurred to me too that if the crank is out & if you can possibly put a long pipe wrench on the bottom of the rod, perhaps just twisting it will be enough for it to break free. Stude rods are forged just like the crank. If they do come out this way your going to need to have them checked anyway or just replace them since they are plentiful.