I just changed oil in my 1950 Champion. I had 10 W 30 Mystik JT-8 (synthetic/dinosaur mix) and I changed to JT-8 15W40. Is it as obvious as it seems, that the thicker oil should result in measurably higher (according to my dash gauge) oil pressure? The higher pressure persists after warm-up.
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Will higher viscosity oil result in higher oil pressure?
Collapse
X
-
In multigrade oils... The first number is the cold 'pour point' number, and the second number is the high temp additive package protection number.
So... It can pour cold like a 10 weight oil and give high temp film protection like a 40 weight oil.
The 'W' stands for winter (again... low temp pour point)
HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)
Jeff
Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain
Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)
Comment
-
Originally posted by DEEPNHOCK View PostIn multigrade oils... The first number is the cold 'pour point' number, and the second number is the high temp additive package protection number.
So... It can pour cold like a 10 weight oil and give high temp film protection like a 40 weight oil.
The 'W' stands for winter (again... low temp pour point)
http://www.shell.com/global/products...right-oil.html
(Best of both worlds)
Comment
-
Originally posted by SN-60 View PostThis is true,....but frankly, I've never completely understood how one oil can do this!
(Best of both worlds)Skip Lackie
Comment
-
Originally posted by Skip Lackie View PostActually, it's not the oil that does that. There are additives in multi-grade oils that form longer chains as the temperature increases. These have the effect of holding the oil molecules and keeping it from running off in high temps.
Comment
-
All I have to go by is the standard dash gauge (0-40-80), but the needle is well above 40 at idle now, whereas it was below 40 before. An approximately 7-10 Lb. increase. I had not directly observed this phenomenon before, although it does seem obvious when I think about it.John
1950 Champion
W-3 4 Dr. Sedan
Holdrege NE
Comment
-
Originally posted by Lothar View PostAll I have to go by is the standard dash gauge (0-40-80), but the needle is well above 40 at idle now, whereas it was below 40 before. An approximately 7-10 Lb. increase. I had not directly observed this phenomenon before, although it does seem obvious when I think about it.
Comment
-
I had the opposite problem. When we rebuilt the 289 that I put in my '53 we got the tolerances so close that it always pegged the gauge when cold and dropped to between fifty and sixty at warm idle. I was running Rotella 15/40. Changed to 10/30 and now at about 60 psi at startup and 35 at warm idle.Brad Johnson,
SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
'33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight. '53 Commander Starlight
'56 Sky Hawk in process
Comment
-
For many years and miles, I used 20W50. I swapped over to 15W50 Mobil 1 about 17 years ago, and never any problems with either. I recommend either 20W50 dino oil, or 15W50 synthetic. I do not understand why anyone would use yester-decade, straight weight oil in anything other than a lawnmower.
Comment
-
Originally posted by JoeHall View PostFor many years and miles, I used 20W50. I swapped over to 15W50 Mobil 1 about 17 years ago, and never any problems with either. I recommend either 20W50 dino oil, or 15W50 synthetic. I do not understand why anyone would use yester-decade, straight weight oil in anything other than a lawnmower.
Today's oils are so much better than those of 60 years ago, any major brand is way good enough. Many of today's engines have change intervals of 15,000+ miles and any well rebuilt older engine can do the same.
Not only are today's oils much better, but the removal of lead from gasoline has doubled or tripled the life of spark plugs, rings and bearings, and exhaust systems too.
Comment
-
Originally posted by JoeHall View PostI do not understand why anyone would use yester-decade, straight weight oil in anything other than a lawnmower.
Terry
Comment
Comment