View Full Version : Hawk revival

10-23-2015, 06:49 PM
Let's say that next spring, after the snow thaws and Daylight Savings Time kicks in, that I haul a certain neglected Hawk down to the patio to work on it after work and on days off. What would be good ways to pick up the pieces? As a finless and shaved custom? As a lesser ratty rat-rod? As for interior, was it the '56 Power and Flight Hawks that had that Googie rounded triangle motif in the door panels?

10-23-2015, 07:15 PM
I got a token start tonight. I got some carpet out of the dumpster across the alley to lay down in the Hawk when the time comes.

10-23-2015, 07:42 PM
Hopefully the patio is covered, if not, buy a HF 12X20 canopy to cover it. Start by pulling it apart. Remove the fenders (front and rear) and access the amount of rust that is present. If it looks like it's do-able then get to the floors and trunk. Again, evaluate what it looks like compared to what you want can repair. Now look at the engine and running gear. At this point you can judge what is necessary and does it fit your budget and skill level. Now you can answer the question about what it should look like.

This is when the fun begins, Bob

10-23-2015, 07:53 PM
Not sure if you are referring to the Material Pattern or the Door Panel Design itself, or what a Google Symbol looks like, but here is a Original '58 Silver Hawk:


10-23-2015, 08:20 PM
Specifically which neglected Hawk? Makes a difference.

As a finless and shaved custom? Fer sure, cause that's what I chose to build.

jack vines

10-23-2015, 08:30 PM
This neglected Hawk. :( http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/showthread.php?91511-Broken-deal

10-24-2015, 05:36 AM
Last night, I dreamed that I was about to rebuild the carburetor on that Hawk and came to this forum to ask advice.

10-24-2015, 03:16 PM
Last night, I dreamed that I was about to rebuild the carburetor on that Hawk and came to this forum to ask advice.

Did we tell you to go buy a New 500 cfm Edelbrock! :D

10-24-2015, 06:24 PM
The dream didn't get farther than scrolling down the page.

But I would trade a 600 down for a 500 cfm Edelbrock for the Champ.

Over the winter, I may attempt to rebuild a AFB off a '63 259 Lark for the Champ. Plus I got a two and a half WCFBs and a couple of manifolds squirreled away for the Hawk and possibly the Bullet-nose.

BTW, Googie was a design style from the late '40s to early '60s. It's also called Atomic or Space Age Style. Well, it did peak around the Sputnik and John Glenn era. It didn't have a symbol, but if it did, it probably would have been that stylized boomerang shape. Not to mention that Googie was also found of star-blasts, "amoeboids", squiggles, rounded quadrilaterals, and those rounded triangles.

Which reminds me, I remembered that triangle in the door panel as being bolder. But I wouldn't be surprised if my memory is faulty since it was from on a Hawk that I saw in one of Howard Olsen's barns back in the late '70s.

10-24-2015, 06:56 PM
If it was my car I would try to find another fin. If I couldnt find one then I would go the fin-less clipped wing look. Basically I would just fix the car up as a survivor and drive the wheels off of it.

10-24-2015, 07:27 PM
Here's a finless custom one that I drew circa 1984.

If I had to do it again, those inks would be less frail and more expressive.


10-25-2015, 12:00 AM
My 2 cents... Don't take anything apart till its running. I would always advise you get it to be a running a stopping vehicle first. Then you have the pleasure of using the car to chase other parts. That way, you can take a weekend to remove one fender at a time to do what you need to do to it. Put it back together, then next time, do something else. I would strongly urge you to never let the car be "down" for any great length of time. That is the death knell for any inexpensive hobby car. If you're doing a major reconstruction, and have the funds and the facilities, and the wherewithal to see it to its completion, then go for it. In the mean time, keep it running and enjoy it while you work on it.
As I said, just my 2 cents.

10-25-2015, 03:14 AM
Sals54 is exactly right.

I've given the same advice to many others, as I've seen too many things taken apart and never get put together again. That's how I'm working on my Model A's also. Someday when I have the space to take the body off the frame and give it a complete restoration all the small stuff will already be done. The brakes, generator, starter, carb, etc. will all be restored and painted, so basically I'll be painting the frame and body apart then putting them together with the least possible down time.

10-25-2015, 08:16 PM
The poor Hawk is in pieces. The body man took the fender and fin off and lost them in fire. He cut out the floorboards and never got around to welding the CE replacements in. That's them sitting on the floor. They were shiny and new from CE back then. They're coated with crumbly rust now. I've put a '51 Commander together from a bunch of parts. I'm planning on towing the Hawk down my patio in Omaha after the spring thaw and piece it together there.

Here are a couple of pictures of the Hawk circa '97, sized for the dialup on Performa internet of back then. Plus that drawing that didn't attach right last time.


11-02-2015, 12:29 PM
Please, tell me more about this HF 12x20 canopy. And if I need some sort of permit for one in Omaha.

11-02-2015, 12:48 PM
I would be suspect of the ability of the HF canopy to hold the snow weight in NE. A good tarp will do as much good for storage. Just be certain NOT to seal the tarp to the ground though I do recommend a ground cover. Leave plenty of room for air to flow. Even when I used the HF garage I put a tarp flat on the ground and built on top of that. The HF canopies/garages are OK but not a long term solution. A few good winds and they are history. Steve

11-03-2015, 03:42 AM
Please, tell me more about this HF 12x20 canopy. And if I need some sort of permit for one in Omaha.

I had one and the snow load collapsed it. I have a Roundtop 12 x 20 for my 1950 Champion. It cost $320 and is OK, but you loose a lot of space due to the sloping sides. I also have the Menards 12 x 20 metal canopy and that's the best deal at $890. Wish I'd have bought a 20 x 20 instead of the two mentioned. Most places don't need a permit because these are considered portable. Best to install it where it's most hidden though, like behind your garage.

11-03-2015, 08:19 AM
I don't know where you live but the canopy I used IIRC was from Menards. https://www.menards.com/main/p-1444441913568-c-10153.htm?tid=-1779627685043022807 It, obviously, is 10X20 not 12 wide as I stated. I had it up for three or four years and painted my 54K under it. Note that it has four posts and not three per side. It took Michigan winters because I pushed the snow off it from below. The canopy finally gave up the ghost and ripped so I pitched the fabric and now use the tubing for various projects.

I'm not claiming that it will take 20" of snow and I would chose the metal alternative for many reasons but I bought it to paint under and it just survived a few more years. I have two steel portable buildings and a 32X48 ft polebarn now so I don't need this type any more.

Harbor Freight choices. http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=canopy a tarp is cheaper but this provides sun and rain protection to work under.

Your money, your choice. Bob

11-03-2015, 08:25 AM
That portable garage looks interesting.

11-03-2015, 10:52 AM
Only people in Omaha would (possibly) know the laws regarding canopy permits there. So, that falls to you.

I agree with the others. Just get the car running. Without the funds and dedicated time and drive to completion you run the chance of winding up with less than the previous guy left you with.

Regarding the HF canopy and its fabric cover - they do not last long, maybe 3-5 years at best. I took the frame, re-configured the tubing and cut the height down. I then screwed corrugated steel to the frame and have a very durable car storage cover. I got the frame, plywood sides and all but two of the metal sheets for free. As can be seen i used a side yard wall as and existing side. I have less than $50 in this CASO garage. Just throwing this out there for those who might have the skeleton and are finding the replacement cover is nearly as much as the whole cover itself.

11-04-2015, 08:24 PM
I went up to The Farm and got the Hawk rolled into the Morton. Things under the hood are rustier and crustier then when I took it over to my idiot friend. I have a sinking feeling that the motor may be stuck. And that was a fairly fresh overhaul too. How can that idiot bodyman conscientiously do that to a customer? How can he conscientiously do that to a decent machine?

11-04-2015, 09:19 PM
Id fog the cylinders real good with oil before I turned the engine over. It sucks this had to happen to such a nice car.. Just keep your head up high and try not to let the amount of work overwhelm you. Even if the car is in need of more work than it did before this whole incident, at least you still own it and you now have it back in your possession. You'll get it running and driving again... It just takes time and patience.

11-05-2015, 06:39 PM
So far I've only did a token attempt of squirting some Liquid Wrench in the carburetor. I've been a little afraid of poking in farther so far.

I ordered some body bolts and u-bolts to start turning this thing around.