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63 Hawk R2 power steering control valve

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  • Steering: 63 Hawk R2 power steering control valve

    In the process of replacing the power steering pressure and return hoses on my 63 Hawk......trying to get a wrench on the return hose fitting, at the control valve........the control valve assembly twists about an inch back and forth. Is this normal? Page 31 of the steering section of the shop manual says the pitman arm is permanently fastened. If there is supposed to be no movement, where shall I look for the cause?

  • #2
    That is normal...

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    • #3
      Upon further inspection and wiggling the valve, the pictured piece started to fall out. It's the pitman arm ball stud dust seal [item 1308-113 on plate 13-6 of parts book]. It's 7/16 thick, guess that would inhibit movement. How the heck would I put one in if the pitman arm is "permanently attached."

      I guess pull the pitman arm and slide new seal in?
      Attached Files
      Last edited by tim333; 10-12-2015, 10:44 AM.

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      • #4
        Buy a new one from a vendor, slice it at the top, slide it over post of ball, put a spot of glue to hold edges back together. It's just a grease "seal" for the ball in the actuator. Hard way is to remove the control valve from the pitman arm, disassemble the valve sleeve, slide it over the ball, reassemble control valve sleeve. Doesn't do much anyway, when you grease the ball swivel it comes out from behind it anyway. Or, just leave it off.

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        • #5
          Fred, with it in will it reduce the inch or so wobble movement of the control valve?

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          • #6
            Originally posted by tim333 View Post
            Fred, with it in will it reduce the inch or so wobble movement of the control valve?
            To answer the question, this "seal" is made of sponge rubber - pretty soft. So it will have little influence on the rotating movement. The original rebuild kits actually supplied by Studebaker - say 40 years ago - actually included this seal. Nobody even installed them, though, since it would turn a quick easy rebuilt into a longer, more complicated job. I had some extras in my control valve seal kit box, and if a customer ever thought he wanted one, I would just give it to him.

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            • #7
              Like everyone says, it's normanl. Here's a time saver. Since you are replacing the hoses, it is a simple thing to cut the line close to the fitting, then you can get a socket over the nut of the old fitting.
              Bez Auto Alchemy
              573-318-8948
              http://bezautoalchemy.com


              "Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln

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              • #8
                Thanks for the tip Bez, pressure hose fitting was easy. I was wondering how to get the wrench on the return fitting, very tight spacing as a wrench with a 3/16 wall won't fit. Don't see how a wrench will fit to tighten the new line.
                Last edited by tim333; 10-13-2015, 08:19 AM.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by tim333 View Post
                  Fred, with it in will it reduce the inch or so wobble movement of the control valve?
                  You should be able to "twist" the valve till it "bottoms" out, at the ball stud, by twisting the reach rod or the valve body. It should also move front to back on the ball in the sleeve while the pitman arm is stationary, that's what kicks in the spool to move the fluid, without that movement there is no flow, that amount is "about" a 1/4". How much is excess is hard to say, it is limited by pressure on the ball by the ball seats controlled by the two springs. You probably will see that play diminish when the pump is pushing fluid. Not sure if that answers your question exactly--the seal does nothing to tighten up anything, as it is only for the grease you pump into the sleeve to lube the ball and seats on that tube assembly. If you have an inch or so "slop" in the steering, I think you need to look elsewhere, like if the center bell crank bearings are shot, it would move up and down at the reach rod and at the tie rods, that may be the looseness you're referring to. Even if the control valve actuator springs were missing I don't think the actuator assembly would let it move that much the way it's designed. Have you looked at the valve cutaway drawing in the repair manual? Not the overhaul procedure. That will help you understand what moves and doesn't. This is a Ford unit, it uses a rubber cover rather than the part that fell off. But the ball stud is bolted onto their pitman arm, ours were "staked" so there is no easy way to put it on.
                  Attached Files

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                  • #10
                    It's starting to sound normal to me now. Once there's fluid in the system it will probably be tighter as you said.

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                    • #11
                      Took a cheap 5/8 open end wrench, ground the wall down to 1/8". Held the control valve with a big channel locks so it wouldn't twist and fitting came right off [:
                      Attached Files

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                      • #12
                        The slop that I am familiar with on that post vanishes once you start the car.
                        Had to show that to a state safety inspector once upon a time; he was ready to give it a fail.

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