Steering: Difference between early 51 to 63 and later post 63 bellcranks

[pinehurstbob]

Can anyone tell me what the difference is between the 2 bellcranks used from 51 to 63 and 63 to the end is? The reason why I ask is because my 60 Lark needs to be repaired or replaced due to play. I picked up a bellcrank at a swap meet thinking they were all the same and now my concern is that I don't know whether its a new or old style. Can you install a new style bellcrank on a 60 and if so will it be safe? Would like to know before I pull it apart so its not tied up waiting for parts. If I have to stay with the one in the car, I will get the repair kit for the "old" style and put off the repair till I have the kit. Thanks in advance. By the way, its manual steering if that matters.

Bob

[dpson]

Bob,

If you are talking about the bellcrank bracket and pin assembly, it is my understanding the change was internal; from bearings to bushings to save a few bucks.

As far as I know they should fit and function the same.

If it's the actual bellcrank, I don't know the difference.

[Alan]

As long as it is lubed good, you shouldn't be able to tell the difference driving. When they dry out you will know which one you have.

[pinehurstbob]

Thanks for your input gentlemen.
Bob

[Mike Van Veghten]

What Alan said.

And actually, a properly assembled and lubed (cared for) "bushed" assembly will last longer than the "bearing" assembly. The 360 degree bearing contact is actually superior to the "point" contact of roller bearings.

There is at least two bellcrank casting numbers, but a good visual doesn't show up any difference. I have two, each with their own casting numbers. While I didn't do any actual dimension checking, they are visually the same.

Mike

[pinehurstbob]

Thanks for looking Mike. It makes me feel better about putting a part of unknown origin on my 60.
Bob

[bsrosell]

Thanks for looking Mike. It makes me feel better about putting a part of unknown origin on my 60.
Bob

hi,
not positive if I'm exactly referencing the correct parts, but I just got a repair kit for my '57 GHawk bellcrank rebuild from a friend who is a supplier; the shaft that rides on the bearings (in bellcrank housing? don't have the manual in the house) had the bigger notch for the larger diameter pinch-bolt that supposedly was changed to in '58 or ?? So, had to get the corresponding bell-crank linkage with the bigger pinch bolt from him too, but I'm set now, and a bigger bolt at that location is a good thing, anyway.... Still had needle bearings in this kit...just like the ones I removed from my original '57.
Not sure if it makes a difference (I know the reach rods are different for some?) but my car has Saginaw Power steering..... I recall from when I was looking in the catalog that the other type of power steering had a different style reach-rod, but don't know about bell-crank setup.....
Good luck!

[63R1388]

I just recently ordered a rebuild kit from SI for my early '63 Avanti, which I assumed had a roller bearing steering pivot. When I finally got it out it had a bushed pivot. I can't speak about any external differences in the housings, but internally all the parts were near identical. The shafts were exact. The only difference was the bushings are thinner wall thickness than the bearings. So all I did was bore out the housing from 1.188" out to 1.250" and the bearings pressed right in.

After all was said and done I realized that if one looks in the SI printed catalog, and not online, they list shaft seals for the steering pivot that are not offered in the rebuild kit. There were no seals in the bushed pivot that I took apart so I figuered it worked without them for the the first 50 years. The machine work wasn't a big deal but if you order the right kit for your pivot you can save a bit of effort.

[Alan]

Those shaft seals are a 2 edge sword. You have 2 thrust surfaces and with the seals they don't get any lube.

[gordr]

Those shaft seals are a 2 edge sword. You have 2 thrust surfaces and with the seals they don't get any lube.

Yes. You know, I often wonder why Studebaker didn't design this part with a pair of small tapered roller bearings in it, like outer front wheel bearings. Put a lip seal on the top side, and a cap on the bottom, over the adjusting nut, and the factory lube would last for years and years. And you could adjust out slack by tightening the spindle nut.

[StudeNorm]

A fellow named Duncan MacDonald, a good friend of mine from back in the day, told me how to keep a Stude front end properly lubed. He said "every time you finish driving it in the rain take it in for a grease job". He was adament about this and I figured he should know since he was a traveling salesman and he only drove Studes... He told me about a time he should have been wearing a raincoat and hat under the car because he had actual water squirting out of the grease points, bellcrank and tie rod ends most especially. Mind you, for most of us who will never let thier cars see a raindrop, this may be a moot point. You daily drivers may want to consider this advice.

Just sayin'.

[GrumpyOne]

The only differences as to bellcranks that I've noticed are the earlier ones with needle bearings vs. bushings for the pin.

I've also noticed that a '59 Lark had a pinch bolt that was threaded into one side of the bell crank itself. The pinch bolt was a larger diameter as well and was on a power steering car.

HTH...

[Dan Timberlake]

Yeah, those parts that use rubber cone seals that just gently press against the link, etc are a sorry excuse for a seal under a car.
Back in the late 90s I bought some Moog ball joints for an old Volvo. Oh boy, genuine MOOG, those must be premium parts indeed.And it has a grease fitting! And so reasonably priced I bought a pair. But only installed one. Within a year in Massachusetts the new MOOG was BADLY worn despite me greasing it a few times.
The ball joint ina MacPherson strut car is RIGHT down there in the spraying muck, but still.
All the other OEM and replacement balljoints and tie rod ends use wire clips to secure the seal/boot to the stud and the link, tie rod, ball joint etc. There has to be some sliding of the boot when steering or going over bumps, but the springs ensure good contact and as a result exclusion of contamination.
First time I saw that style was on a buddy's 1964 Olds "lubed for life" ball joints that you only greased until the rubber boot was plump.

[SN-60]

The earlier 'needle bearing' style are definitely superior....and interchangeable.