Ignition: pertronix

[Mo-Baker]

I'm working on my 60 lark VIII and thinking about putting in a pertronix unit. who would I talk to about which one to use or do any of you guys know anybody that can rebuild my dist and put the right one in.
Thanks Dave

[StudeRich]

If it has the correct Distributor, it would be a Delco Window type, the easiest to get more choices for Pertronix Units for.
The Igniter II or III for the Window Dist. are both good choices, they come from Studebaker Drivers Club Member and "Turning Wheels" advertiser, Phil Harris at Fairborn Studebaker.

[Mike Van Veghten]

Mo -

As noted, any of the GM units will work just fine. I have an earlier one in my 259 Lark. Been there for 12 or 13 years. It's a very easy swap (about 15 minutes if you go slow) if you remove the distributor. Just spend a few minutes getting the gap as good as you can. It's in the instructions...simple. You can also give the distributor a good cleaning while you're at it.
A new cap, rotor and set of fresh plug wires are also a good bet at this point.

Not to take away from the Stude Vendors, but you might give Summit or Jegs a look for pricing too.

Mike

[Mo-Baker]

Thanks guys, I will see about getting ahold of Mr. Harris to get the right one.

[Michael J Hawk]

You can call Pertronix directly. They have good customer service there.

[wittsend]

Don't get the bottom of the line Pertronix. If you leave the ignition on (without the motor running) more than 30+ seconds you can burn it up. I don't know if they even sell it anymore, but it seems a crazy device that can self destruct in such a hurry. Read their information and get the model that has protection from this "feature" - NOT.

[Paul Keller]

Do NOT get the "old style' Pertronix I with the 'wheelie' sensor at the top of the distributor shaft - It is very difficult to adjust the end play properly in order to get reliable operation. The newer units (with the sensor at the distributor plate, where the points are normally installed) is the only way to obtain reliability (I paid for three towing charges due to Pertronix before tossing the unit and returning to points). Also, the tech people recommended using a ballast resister with their coil - Even tho' the instruction sheet states not to use one (mine failed and sprayed the top of the engine with a nasty smelling oil). As a result, the output voltage is not much different than any standard coil - So much for paying a premium price for performance.

Paul TK

[Hawklover]

Keep the points and save the phone call charges:-)

You can call Pertronix directly. They have good customer service there.

[colt45sa]

To change or not to change, that is the question

Keep the points and save the phone call charges:-)

I have been curious about the Pertronix conversion as well. I called them and asked for the part number for my '55 with a Delco distributor and a 6 volt positive ground electrical system. He gave me a number and then started talking about a ballast resistor. I said 'a ballast resistor in a 6-volt system?" and using a coil with a .06 something. Then he suggested their coil. I'm confused now and don't know if I want to spend $100 plus to save having to change points every couple of years. The next day my brother told me that they had burned up a couple of units by leaving the key on. I need to talk to a couple of guys who have installed and are happy with the conversion on a 6-volt positive ground distributor in a V-8

[MPallock]

Keep the points. I have had nothing but bad luck with the 6 volt Pertronix

[63 R2 Hawk]

Have a Pertronix on my R2 Hawk for 15 years now, no problems whatsoever. Also using an MSD 6AL and MSD 8981 timing computer with no issues.

[RadioRoy]

I have Pertronix systems in three of my 12 volt cars for the last 20 years or so. All of them have been trouble free and make the engines run smoother.

I have not:
-used a super performance coil
-left the ignition on without the engine running.

The trouble seems to stem from doing either of these two things.

[55 56 PREZ 4D]

I've got the 55 President State Sedan [6 volt, pos ground] with one of the first Pertronixs units made for them.
Bob Johnstone installed it around 2002 before he made the Route 66 trip in 2003. Great Falls, Virginia to Santa Monica and back.
The install is shown on his Studebaker Tech site.
He had no problems with it. I have put on around 40,000 miles with no problems.

[wittsend]

Just for understanding the Pertronix does exactly what points do. They complete and then open a circuit to/from GROUND. Therefore any resistor needs to be matched to the COIL. There may be a limit on the amount of current the device can handle and that would be why they are always promoting their coil. However, if you knew the current rating of a Pertronix coil and stayed at or below that rating you should be OK with any other coil (and its matching resistor).

Don't be mistaken (as I was) that the 12V you wire in provides 12V + to the coil. That voltage is simply needed for the Pertronix to open/close the circuit to ground. Also, don't make the mistake others do. They often source the 12V + from the coil. However, that voltage (because of the resistor) is far less. Wiring to the ignition switch is far better. And, again, avoid the Accessory position because listening to the radio while parked will fry the base level (cheapest) Pertronix. All that said I do have this (base) level Pertronix and it has worked well. I do have a slip connector on the 12V + (red) wire so that when I need to have the power on, but the car not running I can protect it by disengaging the wire.

[StudeRich]

The Ignition Circuit (IGN Terminal) is not activated when your Ign. Switch is in the ACC position, why would it matter?