Opinions/Advice '56 Champion 2dr.

[Allan Songer]

I just looked at this 1956 Champion 2 dr. It's an original CA car and was last registered in 1966 (!). Unfortunately it has been sitting OUTSIDE for the last 30 years--about 15 years ago someone bought it and did a bit of body work. The windows were left down for 15 years and the floors have rotted from the inside OUT. The frame is solid, the rockers/sills are solid, even the fenders and trunk are pretty much rust free. The coral and white you see are the original paint.

I am a CA guy and rust really scares the snot out of me--are the holes in floors a REALLY big problem? Should I run away from this?

I passed on the '57 Scotsman a couple of months ago and regret it. I really want to build a hotrod out of one of these ugly ducklings and already have an original R1 motor.

I know that building a car like this will be a BAD financial decision, but I still have the itch.

I can get this car for less than $500. What do you guys think?

[mbstude]

Go for it! That would really make a neat car, and that one is quite savable.
You California guys are wimps.. Most, if not all, of the Studes that my family has redone were nowhere near as solid as that one.

Sounds like a plan, be sure to keep us updated on your progress.

Matthew Burnette
'59 Scotsman
'63 Daytona
Hazlehurst, GA

Hey, It's a Drivers' Club!

[mbstude]

Go for it! That would really make a neat car, and that one is quite savable.
You California guys are wimps.. Most, if not all, of the Studes that my family has redone were nowhere near as solid as that one.

Sounds like a plan, be sure to keep us updated on your progress.

Matthew Burnette
'59 Scotsman
'63 Daytona
Hazlehurst, GA

Hey, It's a Drivers' Club!

[Carl Purdy]

I have a 56 Commander 2 door. I wouldn't really call it a ugly duckling. After they are fixed up they look neat. All the floors pans are available. I found a bunch of NOS parts at SASCO. I was suprised to find so many. Just my 2 cents I think they look better all one color. Mine is baby blue.


7G-Q1 49 2R12 10G-F5 56B-D4 56B-F2
As soon as you find a product you like they will stop making it.

[Carl Purdy]

I have a 56 Commander 2 door. I wouldn't really call it a ugly duckling. After they are fixed up they look neat. All the floors pans are available. I found a bunch of NOS parts at SASCO. I was suprised to find so many. Just my 2 cents I think they look better all one color. Mine is baby blue.


7G-Q1 49 2R12 10G-F5 56B-D4 56B-F2
As soon as you find a product you like they will stop making it.

[studegary]

That car doesn't look bad to me. Even if the car was free, it wouldn't pay to rebuild or restore it for resale. If this is what you want, go for it.

Gary L.
Wappinger, NY

SDC member since 1968
Studebaker enthusiast much longer

[studegary]

That car doesn't look bad to me. Even if the car was free, it wouldn't pay to rebuild or restore it for resale. If this is what you want, go for it.

Gary L.
Wappinger, NY

SDC member since 1968
Studebaker enthusiast much longer

[bams50]

I don't get what's scary about floor rust- it's just metal, and they make that every day! Being a CA car, I'd look closely at the roof, along the edges; this is a problem with a lot of CA cars, depending where they're from. This rust is MUCH harder to fix correctly than floors...

If I was within say 300 miles or so of it, for $500 I'd grab it in a minute- a no-brainer!

Robert (Bob) Andrews Owner- Studebakeracres- on the IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
Parish, central NY 13131

[bams50]

I don't get what's scary about floor rust- it's just metal, and they make that every day! Being a CA car, I'd look closely at the roof, along the edges; this is a problem with a lot of CA cars, depending where they're from. This rust is MUCH harder to fix correctly than floors...

If I was within say 300 miles or so of it, for $500 I'd grab it in a minute- a no-brainer!

Robert (Bob) Andrews Owner- Studebakeracres- on the IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
Parish, central NY 13131

[Michidan]

I've done the floors on one before. The panels themselves are not so tough. Hardtops and converts have extra troughs underneath and then it really get nasty. I do not believe this car would have those.
I would be much more concerned about what lurks behind the 1/2 done bodywork along the sides. Check closely where primer is found.

FWIW - I think the 56 sedans are way under-rated. Nice car.

Dan
52 hardtop

https://www.studebakerhardtop.com

[Michidan]

I've done the floors on one before. The panels themselves are not so tough. Hardtops and converts have extra troughs underneath and then it really get nasty. I do not believe this car would have those.
I would be much more concerned about what lurks behind the 1/2 done bodywork along the sides. Check closely where primer is found.

FWIW - I think the 56 sedans are way under-rated. Nice car.

Dan
52 hardtop

https://www.studebakerhardtop.com

[bams50]

There won't be any issues under that primer, I can tell from the picture. At most would be a dent not roughed out well enough, maybe a little perforation along the bottom edge.



Robert (Bob) Andrews Owner- Studebakeracres- on the IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
Parish, central NY 13131

[bams50]

There won't be any issues under that primer, I can tell from the picture. At most would be a dent not roughed out well enough, maybe a little perforation along the bottom edge.



Robert (Bob) Andrews Owner- Studebakeracres- on the IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
Parish, central NY 13131

[Allan Songer]

quote:Originally posted by bams50

There won't be any issues under that primer, I can tell from the picture. At most would be a dent not roughed out well enough, maybe a little perforation along the bottom edge.

Bingo! I dont think there's ANY rust in the doors or fenders--just some half-ass shade tree body work. The car really did rust from the inside out.

There is NO rust in the roof.

How did you replace the floors? Did you pull the body from the frame--I'm guessing that is the proper way to do it and it sure seems like A LOT of work. The floor panels will cost a couple of hundred more than the car! Crazy. I know this will be a money pit from which I can never crawl out. Even without a paint job, I'm looking at 10-12 grand to get the darn thing on the road (including rebuilding the R1 and upgrading to disc brakes and V8 suspension with sway bars, etc.) Pretty stupid!

The hood has sublte "kinks" in the rear corners near the hinges. This too looks like a tough repair--I would think you'd have to fabricate some sort of corner stiffener . . .

I'm on the fence as far as buying this one--the seller is letting me think about it through the weekend. He's moving to Ohio and if it doesn't sell he's going to scrap it by the first of the year (or so he says).

[Allan Songer]

quote:Originally posted by bams50

There won't be any issues under that primer, I can tell from the picture. At most would be a dent not roughed out well enough, maybe a little perforation along the bottom edge.

Bingo! I dont think there's ANY rust in the doors or fenders--just some half-ass shade tree body work. The car really did rust from the inside out.

There is NO rust in the roof.

How did you replace the floors? Did you pull the body from the frame--I'm guessing that is the proper way to do it and it sure seems like A LOT of work. The floor panels will cost a couple of hundred more than the car! Crazy. I know this will be a money pit from which I can never crawl out. Even without a paint job, I'm looking at 10-12 grand to get the darn thing on the road (including rebuilding the R1 and upgrading to disc brakes and V8 suspension with sway bars, etc.) Pretty stupid!

The hood has sublte "kinks" in the rear corners near the hinges. This too looks like a tough repair--I would think you'd have to fabricate some sort of corner stiffener . . .

I'm on the fence as far as buying this one--the seller is letting me think about it through the weekend. He's moving to Ohio and if it doesn't sell he's going to scrap it by the first of the year (or so he says).