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JDP
11-20-2007, 06:37 PM
You may recall that I've been working on dozens of items left undone, or not down correctly by the restoration shop. I've addressed the drivabilty issues, I now have full throttle, it no longer backfires ad stalls off idle, the drag link adjustment and front end alignment centered the steering wheel and the tire balance took care of the vibration.
Now, I'm moving on to the less critical items like the lack of window cranks on the passenger side. Every Studebaker owner worth his salt knows what to do when the door panels are off for new upholstery, but not this shop. I had to replace one window regulator that was stripped from lack of lubrication, and they made the new panels too thick to allow the handle and plastic trim rings to go on. They also did not seal up the holes in the door and moisture was already warping the new cardboard. I spent the day fixing all of that, now the windows go up and down by turning the handles. One more down, a few dozen to go. :)
It's going to be almost 70 degrees out tomorrow, so I think I'll do some more buffing of the clear coat.


JDP/Maryland
63 R2 SuperHawk (Caesar)
spent to date $54664,75
64 R2 GT (Sid)
spent to date $62,439.30
63 Lark 2 door
52 Starliner
51 Commander
39 Coupe express
39 Coupe express (rod)

rockne10
11-20-2007, 08:45 PM
The largest holes in the doors usually had a cardboard cover. Later manufacturers went with a thin tarpaper over the entire surface. Modern cars use a plastic sheet attached with dumm-dumm. What I have been doing is covering the surface with the very thin closed-cell foam used in packing materials. In addition to being a vapor barrier, it also adds a sound and thermal element. Along with tinted windows, it will make A/C more efficient.

Brad Johnson
Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
http://www.4wheelz.net/virtual/images/rockne/1928_rockne03_f820_th.jpg'33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight, '53 Commander Starlight

rockne10
11-20-2007, 08:45 PM
The largest holes in the doors usually had a cardboard cover. Later manufacturers went with a thin tarpaper over the entire surface. Modern cars use a plastic sheet attached with dumm-dumm. What I have been doing is covering the surface with the very thin closed-cell foam used in packing materials. In addition to being a vapor barrier, it also adds a sound and thermal element. Along with tinted windows, it will make A/C more efficient.

Brad Johnson
Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
http://www.4wheelz.net/virtual/images/rockne/1928_rockne03_f820_th.jpg'33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight, '53 Commander Starlight

bams50
11-20-2007, 08:49 PM
Thanks, John. I learn something new every time you do these reports!

Robert (Bob) Andrews Owner- Studebakeracres- on the IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
Parish, central NY 13131

bams50
11-20-2007, 08:49 PM
Thanks, John. I learn something new every time you do these reports!

Robert (Bob) Andrews Owner- Studebakeracres- on the IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
Parish, central NY 13131

JDP
11-20-2007, 08:51 PM
Something you almost never see on the old Studebakers is the small, rubber, anti-rattle washer around the inside door lock rod. I like to replace the foam weatherseal washer behind the door panel too.

JDP/Maryland
63 R2 SuperHawk (Caesar)
spent to date $54664,75
64 R2 GT (Sid)
spent to date $62,439.30
63 Lark 2 door
52 Starliner
51 Commander
39 Coupe express
39 Coupe express (rod)

JDP
11-20-2007, 08:51 PM
Something you almost never see on the old Studebakers is the small, rubber, anti-rattle washer around the inside door lock rod. I like to replace the foam weatherseal washer behind the door panel too.

JDP/Maryland
63 R2 SuperHawk (Caesar)
spent to date $54664,75
64 R2 GT (Sid)
spent to date $62,439.30
63 Lark 2 door
52 Starliner
51 Commander
39 Coupe express
39 Coupe express (rod)

rockne10
11-20-2007, 09:22 PM
Now there are some items seldom addressed; both available from SI and being applied to my reconstruction just this past week. But I cheated.
The foam seals for the door handle and crank arrived with the center still in them. I punched out the centers and used them for the door lock rod. Man, we Studebaker owners are ch..., er, frugal.

rockne10
11-20-2007, 09:22 PM
Now there are some items seldom addressed; both available from SI and being applied to my reconstruction just this past week. But I cheated.
The foam seals for the door handle and crank arrived with the center still in them. I punched out the centers and used them for the door lock rod. Man, we Studebaker owners are ch..., er, frugal.

JDP
11-20-2007, 11:14 PM
I can beat that, I make both out of old seat foam. :)

JDP/Maryland
63 R2 SuperHawk (Caesar)
spent to date $54664,75
64 R2 GT (Sid)
spent to date $62,439.30
63 Lark 2 door
52 Starliner
51 Commander
39 Coupe express
39 Coupe express (rod)

JDP
11-20-2007, 11:14 PM
I can beat that, I make both out of old seat foam. :)

JDP/Maryland
63 R2 SuperHawk (Caesar)
spent to date $54664,75
64 R2 GT (Sid)
spent to date $62,439.30
63 Lark 2 door
52 Starliner
51 Commander
39 Coupe express
39 Coupe express (rod)

Chucks Stude
11-21-2007, 07:16 AM
FYI, I cover doors, floors etc. with a product called "Sound Solution with Vapor Barrier". It is used underneath laminate floors, to help kill the noise, and protect the floor from subfloor moisture. It has a plastic barrier on top of the product. It is 1/16" thick, has an ASTM sound rating, and is anti-microbial. Easy to work with, and not as expensive as the foil backed stuff.

Chucks Stude
11-21-2007, 07:16 AM
FYI, I cover doors, floors etc. with a product called "Sound Solution with Vapor Barrier". It is used underneath laminate floors, to help kill the noise, and protect the floor from subfloor moisture. It has a plastic barrier on top of the product. It is 1/16" thick, has an ASTM sound rating, and is anti-microbial. Easy to work with, and not as expensive as the foil backed stuff.