More information on 53 Commander

[lelshaddai]

OK, so I have done my research and found out some things.
The car definitely has a 289 in it.
It has a long shaft transmission with single driveline. Crossmember was cut only on bottom.
The rear end is a Dana 44 with 3.54 gear. Is this the original rear end?
How will this set up work for cruising the freeway? Off the line?

What car would this set up come out of?

We drove it around the block. It runs, shifts and brakes.

Both window regulators are sticking. Seems like they hit the door panel clips.

Can you explain why there are two hoses to the heater control valve and two smaller ones next to the heater core? [IMG][/IMG]

I thought you guys would like to see the pennies they stuck on the breather caps.
[IMG][/IMG]

Where there any dome lights in this car?
What type of tranny fluid is recommended , I know it says type F but many did not like that. What is the best oil and viscosity for warmer(Hot 105 today) climates.



Here is a link to all the photos if you want to see them.

http://s1101.photobucket.com/user/lelshaddai/slideshow/1953%20Studebaker%20Commander

[62champ]

The heater core will actually be located under the passenger seat - follow the air duct hose from the vent door area to that area. Relative used to say that Studebakers were the only car where the backseat passengers would complain about their feet being too hot.

The smaller to inlets on the firewall are for the defroster - hoses were connected to the heater hoses.

Good luck.

[StudeRich]

The small tubes you see and call Heater Core, are actually NOT the Main Heater Core, these go to the DEFROSTER Core they get 3/8 Hose to Adapter "T"'s to the 5/8" Hoses that go to those other Two which are the Heater Control Valve IN & OUT Tubes.

The Heater Hoses go to the Under Seat Heater Core under the Passenger side seat.

The Rear end is likely the Original 3.54 for the DG Automatic Trans. and the tiny 232 V8. This WILL cause a bit high RPM's on the Interstate at 70 for extended periods of time it could get a little annoying because of the Noise and poor MPG.
For short drives around town, it will be fine, fun and quite QUICK with a MUCH more powerful 289! Definately try it out before changing it, you may like it and it IS dependant on how you drive and where.

The Ford Type "F" will be fine and is the best and proper fluid. HOWEVER there ARE those that have a different idea about that and use the more common Dexron III and it will work OK, but with more slippage than Type F, certainly not what I want.

Engine Oil viscosity does matter as to your Climate. The best all around Winter/Summer would be 10/30, but straight 30 Wt. IF you can find it, or 20W-50 will be fine. Just do NOT use new Car 0 or 5 Wt. in ANY combination of multi-weights.

These Oils are NOT for 1950's clearances type U.S. built engines, especially not 50+ years old, with many miles on them.

There are no Dome Lights, there IS A Dome Light, it is/was over the Driver Door 3/4 of the way back, on EVERY 1954 to 1966 Studebaker, none on your '53.

UPDATE: corrected the 1953 oddity on no dome light.

[rockne10]

and poor MPG.



There are no Dome Lights, there IS A Dome Light, it is/was over the Driver Door 3/4 of the way back.

I was able to get 23mpg in my '53 232 coupe without babying the engine on the highway with the 3.54 rear. The 44 rear is stout and should have no problem with whatever power the 289 dishes out.
Peculiarly, the '53 C/K models HAD NO DOME LIGHT AT ALL! The light above the driver's door was added to the '54 models; no explanation why! The '53 does have a courtesy lamp under the center of the dashboard with an integrated toggle switch. It is also wired to the door switches, so should come on when the door is opened.

[StudeRich]

That is very good MPG for a V8 Car that heavy, and not in the Mobilgas economy run! But it was a 232 2 Brl. and would be quite a bit different with a 4 Brl. 289.

My Bad about the Dome light, I forgot about that one year only "mistake", I only buy 1954 and later Studes. so never had that situation, sorry for the oversight.

[lelshaddai]

How big is the heater core under the seat? That seems to be missing. After looking again the heater control valve looks rebuilt. How difficult is it to install one? Even in AZ we like heat once in awhile. Not a big deal that is does not have a dome light. The 289 that is in this car is a 2 bbl.

[Studedude]

I've never seen a purple part # 710 before.

[studegary]

Most has been answered.

I had a 1953 Starliner that I put a 259 V8 in and used the original 3.54:1 differential. I put MANY miles on that car, including more than 500 miles a day many times. It worked fine for me. Try it before you plan a change.

Take the sharp bend out of the plug wires by rotating the clip.

The last Starliner that I sold, the new owner complained about the large hole in the floor. It was where the heater goes. I had supplied him with a heater that was not installed in the car.

I will try again - How about a picture of the cleaned off Engine Number boss?

[lelshaddai]

I do not plan to change the engine, tranny or rear end. I like the set up that is in it. This appears to be a replacement engine. It does not have a number on the boss. [IMG][/IMG]

[mbstude]

Thanks, guys, for the discussion about '53 dome lights.. My Starliner has what I think is the original headliner (the rest of the interior is mostly original), but the lack of a dome light threw me off.

[rockne10]

Thanks, guys, for the discussion about '53 dome lights.. My Starliner has what I think is the original headliner (the rest of the interior is mostly original), but the lack of a dome light threw me off.

Yep, Matthew, for reasons unknown, the '53 was deprived of this basic necessity.

And, Jim! The first year Stude V-8 in 1951 had the engine number stamped in the diagonal (passenger side rear) boss, as opposed to all later v-8 blocks, which were embossed on the left front boss.; another cause of mystery. This would apply to the 1951 232 only, and not to any 289 CID.

[rockne10]

That is very good MPG for a V8 Car that heavy, and not in the Mobilgas economy run! But it was a 232 2 Brl. and would be quite a bit different with a 4 Brl. 289.

Rich, I would suspect and hope, with proper tuning, even a Stude 289 should be able to achieve a reasonable mpg, unless on the race circuit. My 289 from a Cruiser was still Stromberg WW 2BBL equipped and, with a 3.07 rear and 3spd/OD and achieved 28MPG when driven on the highway like a little old man. When I drive like a normal human being, those numbers cannot be achieved. A 4BBL can easily dump those numbers but, unless in passing intent, or macho bravura, those secondaries only kick in when testosterone demands.
Doable in a Studebaker and smugly gratifying!

[Flashback]

The heater system has been explained I think. Here is a shot of the hoses and you can see the large (4") duct that goes to the under seat heater from the blower under the left fender.

[lelshaddai]

Now that picture tells the story. Were does the front of the duct lead to in the engine bay? Is it just open?

[rockne10]

Jim, the duct that feeds air to the heater core under the seat should pass under the chassis frame after it comes from the blower that should be in you right front fender. The body vent on the outside of the front fender can be vented directly to the passenger compartment by opening the interior vent door in the passenger kick panel. Closing the interior vent door and opening the exterior fender scoop should direct air through the heater blower motor and through the duct to the passenger compartment heater core under the passenger side of the front seat.
Obtain the factory Shop Manual from any of our vendors and it is all right there.