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  • Steering: Steering wheel puller

    I am trying to replace the turn signal switch and lever. I got a steering wheel puller from Harbor Freight but of course the bolts supplied don't fit my GT. The threads on the hub look to be 1/4-28, is this right? I tried the rubber hammer method but she wouldn't budge.
    I'd rather be driving my Studebaker!

    sigpic

  • #2
    It has been a while since I have pulled a wheel on this late a Studebaker. So...forgive me if I miss something. On the Harbor Freight tool, it might just be that the quality of the threading is not the best. You might want to take some known quality bolts and check to get the correct size. Then, if necessary, pick up some good quality bolts of sufficient length to do the job. The important thing is to use proper technique to remove the wheel without damaging your steering shaft and threads. Once you expose the main retention nut, do not take it off. Instead, back it off until it is flush with the end of the shaft. I like to use a piece of metal between the main puller bolt and shaft for added protection. Once you have everything in place and are ready to begin tightening the main bolt to pull...turn a few threads in, gently tap the end of the main bolt head, and repeat, turn & tap, as you build pressure. As soon as you feel the "pop" when the wheel turns loose, you should be able to remove the puller, the main retainer nut and then the wheel.

    Let us know how you make out. If I've given you bad info (or left anything out), I apologize.
    John Clary
    Greer, SC

    SDC member since 1975

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    • #3
      I don't think the quality of the threading is the issue. The bolts that came with the Harbor Freight puller are just too big and of course Studebaker had to use a fine thread so a quick trip to Home Depot or Lowes may not help. Thanks for the info.
      I'd rather be driving my Studebaker!

      sigpic

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      • #4
        My experience has been that the bolt holes are too close together for most "common" pullers. I bought one for $15 from Studebaker International and it works like a champ (or a Champion or a Commander, etc.).
        Howard - Los Angeles chapter SDC
        '53 Commander Starliner (Finally running and driving, but still in process)
        '56 Golden Hawk (3 speed/overdrive, Power steering - Running, but not yet driving)
        '58 Packard Hawk. A partially restored car that was not completely assembled.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by brngarage View Post
          My experience has been that the bolt holes are too close together for most "common" pullers. I bought one for $15 from Studebaker International and it works like a champ (or a Champion or a Commander, etc.).
          Generally my experience also, but it's usually close and a file or other method of elongating the slots will work. Bob

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          • #6
            One helpful hint in pulling a steering wheel. If you just crank down on the large central screw that is suppose to remove the steering wheel, it takes a lot of pressure before the wheel lets go. But if you crank down pretty hard on the central bolt and then screw one of the outer bolts in further, it distorts the taper in the steering wheel hub enough to release the steering wheel without a lot of pressure by the central screw. Same principle as distorting a tapered tie rod end or ball joint by smacking it with a hammer.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by sweetolbob View Post
              Generally my experience also, but it's usually close and a file or other method of elongating the slots will work. Bob
              Yep, about 10 minutes with a "rat tail" file fixes the hole distance and a 10 minute trip to my local hardware store provided the correct 1/4-28 bolts, now I am fixed for a lifetime....

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              • #8
                Originally posted by 63 R2 Hawk View Post
                Yep, about 10 minutes with a "rat tail" file fixes the hole distance and a 10 minute trip to my local hardware store provided the correct 1/4-28 bolts, now I am fixed for a lifetime....
                Yep, 1/4-28 are the bolts needed to remove the steering wheel. I had to go to three places to get the right thread and length. Studebaker really had a thing for fine threads.
                I'd rather be driving my Studebaker!

                sigpic

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by 63 R2 Hawk View Post
                  Yep, about 10 minutes with a "rat tail" file fixes the hole distance and a 10 minute trip to my local hardware store provided the correct 1/4-28 bolts, now I am fixed for a lifetime....
                  Better watch it, My neighbor's dog was also fixed for a lifetime, only his hardware wasn't bolts.

                  Actually I like the fact Studebaker used a lot of fine thread. They seem to be better quality and are stronger, as well as less likely to loosen during use.

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                  • #10
                    I agree that the fine threads have greater holding power per the size of bolt shaft. A 1/4-28 has more holding power than a1/4-20 but they are harder to find than the coarse thread bolts. So on a Saturday afternoon something you thought would only take a couple of hours to do doesn't get done till Sunday. Bummer.
                    I'd rather be driving my Studebaker!

                    sigpic

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