Disc brake conversion on a 61 hawk

[studelover]

I should have made some inquires about disc brakes on friday I don't know if the "Brake guy" was there. I was thinking that since my hawk will be flying I need to be able to stop. When it comes to a hawk is there alot of swaping out if you want disc up front? I have power brakes from the factory, will I have to change the booster and such? I am hoping all I need to do is change the spindule and get calipers. Can someone tell me whats involved and how much am I looking at?

Studebakers forever!

[Transtar60]

http://www.turnerbrake.com/

3E38
4E2
4E28
5E13
7E7
8E7
8E12
8E28

59 Lark
etc

[sbca96]

I would suggest doing a search, Turner has one, Steeltech has one, I
have one and they all have their good and bad depending on what you
want to end up with. Turner seems to have the most accepted one, the
Steeltech one has had complaints, and mine is still in its infancy. I
have two sets out so far and good feedback.

Tom

'63 Avanti, zinc plated drilled & slotted 03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, soon: TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves, 'R3' 276 cam, Edelbrock AFB Carb, GM HEI distributor, 8.8mm plug wires

[Mike Van Veghten]

Stude -

No one has mentioned...so I will..."most" all of the kits out...are a simple bolt on. No spindle swapping required.

If your handy with a hack saw and a drill, not that difficult to make.
I also made my own front disc brake assembly. Very happy with it.

Mike

[Transtar60]

Turner's website explains the process pretty well.
Didnt see the need to repeat the information here.


3E38
4E2
4E28
5E13
7E7
8E7
8E12
8E28

59 Lark
etc

[sbca96]

True, I installed '63 GT Hawk disc brakes on my '60 Hawk front end and
it bolted right up just fine. I think there is a difference in the
later spindles, but it didnt seem to effect the install for me.

Tom

quote:Originally posted by Mike Van Veghten
No spindle swapping required.

[Dick Steinkamp]

First of all, '61 Hawk brakes are pretty good. They are engineered for the car. IMHO, the car will stop as quickly with the stock brakes (and likely quicker) than with a disc conversion. The downside is that drum brakes will fade quicker and don't work as well when wet.

I did make about 10 stops from over 90 mph in rather quick succession at the South Bend drags with the stock brakes on my '54 (same brakes as on your Hawk), with no noticeable fade, however. So if you plan to drive your car through deep puddles and stop from 90 more than 10 times in a row, discs are for you .

You can't JUST put discs on the car. You have to consider your current pedal geometry, caliper and wheel cylinder displacement (bore and stroke), a master cylinder to match up with both the rear cylinders and front calipers, proper residual check valves, proportioning valve, etc. It is not a slam dunk. MOST home brewed disc conversions do not stop as well as the stock drum brakes and can be down right dangerous (as in the car swapping ends under heavy braking).

You can get the "bragging rights" of having disc brakes cheaply and quickly enough, but is that really what you are after?

If you are going to do it, I highly recommend you use a fully engineered kit like Jim Turner's. Don't experiment unless you have a degree in hydraulic engineering. Buy his COMPLETE kit and follow the instructions to the letter.

BTW, your stock power booster will preclude you from using a dual circuit master cylinder and I don't believe there is room under the floor for a modern, integral type MC/booster. There are dual remote boosters available through the hot rod market, but they are big and expensive. If you do away with the boost, your pedal geometry will be screwy for non boosted brakes.

[Mike Van Veghten]

Hey Tom...I think Mr. Steinkamp just slammed us somewhat!

By the way Dick...I am a Mechanical Engineer by profession. I design and test things for a living!
I could go on...but...

Mike

P.s., no booster on my Conestoga....and even a 100lb. female with high heals can stop it without effort.

[sbca96]

The mechanical advantage on the floor mounted masters must be better
than the swinging pedals, because I ran those '63 GT Hawk disc brakes
WITHOUT a booster for years. I do have strong legs, but I dont think
I am Superman. When we installed a Stude disc setup on my brothers
'64 Daytona, is was IMPOSSIBLE to drive without power assist. I would
not go as far as say anyone should bolt stuff on their car, but there
are some assumptions you can make. I used stock brakes for a similar
size/weight car factory matched front and rear. Factory 94-04 Stangs
dont swap ends off the showroom floor, so I think I am safe. So far
I havent had any issues, and have posted my G-tech results. Once I
get the TKO 5 speed in, I will go out for more 0-60 and 60-0 runs.

Tom

[Dick Steinkamp]

quote:Originally posted by Mike Van Veghten

Hey Tom...I think Mr. Steinkamp just slammed us somewhat!

Didn't mean to. You two guys are smarter than the average shade tree brake designers . Designed properly, fully tested and tweaked, a new brake system can work just fine. I just don't think everyone has the skills to do that.

quote:
no booster on my Conestoga....and even a 100lb. female with high heals can stop it without effort.

I have driven non boosted disc brake cars with no problem. Again, properly designed, they work fine. My point was the pedal geometry on a power brake '61 Hawk is different from that on a non power brake '61 Hawk. If you take the booster out of the system (drum brakes OR discs) I think you will be in trouble from a pedal effort standpoint.

[studelover]

You are right, I have both type cars, the brake system on my non power brake hawk has a very different petal then the power brake car. I think I will stick with the stock power brake system. thanks Dick.

Studebakers forever!

[Studeous]

What type composition shoes are available now if the standard drum brakes are used? Do they still contain asbestous? Whats out there bonded or rivited?

[Dick Steinkamp]

quote:Originally posted by Studeous

What type composition shoes are available now if the standard drum brakes are used? Do they still contain asbestous? Whats out there bonded or rivited?

I don't believe any brake shoes (or pads) contain asbestos anymore (unless you find some very old stock someplace). I prefer riveted, but IIRC I could only get those for the front...bonded for the rear.

Call Phil Harris and ask him what he has.

937-878-1576

[sals54]

I've been running a home-made disc brake conversion on my 54 Coupe for decades. Never had any trouble with it. The original design came from John Kunkel. He is a master machinist and the system has never faded or failed in any way. I did not use a proportioning valve or a booster. The system uses 12" ventilated rotors with 70s Chrysler calipers. The brakes are HUGE. The installation of the check valves was straight forward and simple. I highly recommend the discs.

[JoeHall]

Sal,
What kind of calipers are you using with the 12" discs?

Thanks,

Joe