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swvalcon
06-07-2015, 02:13 PM
Pulled the bell crank apart today on the Hawk and it has two Kaydon bearings #162012 in it. Anyone know what crosses over to that bearing number? Not having any luck coming up with any kind of cross numbers.

StudeRich
06-07-2015, 02:16 PM
Is there a reason that the correct Torrington Needle Bearings, Studebaker Part Number 525013 would not work?

Never heard of a Kaydon.

swvalcon
06-07-2015, 03:08 PM
I'am guessing this is the original Studebaker bearings. And I'am sure they listed it as stude part number 525013 in their books. It's just that Kaydon made it for them as timkin made the front wheel bearings. If anyone has a nos bearing sitting around what are the numbers and brand name on the back side of the bearing where it says made in the USA.

Bo Markham
06-07-2015, 03:41 PM
I'am guessing this is the original Studebaker bearings. And I'am sure they listed it as stude part number 525013 in their books. It's just that Kaydon made it for them as timkin made the front wheel bearings. If anyone has a nos bearing sitting around what are the numbers and brand name on the back side of the bearing where it says made in the USA.

Torrington 525013 OEM NOS

swvalcon
06-07-2015, 04:50 PM
So far not much luck with the Torrington number either. I did find that they where bought out by Timkin and then By JTKT Corp. Guess I'll have to go to SI and order two.

RadioRoy
06-07-2015, 05:20 PM
Often when the bearings/bushings are bad, the center shaft has been scored or reduced in diameter at the critical points. Look for wear or shiny spots on the shaft. If they are there, new bearings might not cure the slop. Maybe you can shift the location of the bearings past the worn spots.

The major Studebaker vendors have a repair kit with new bearings and a center shaft.

swvalcon
06-07-2015, 05:42 PM
Roy the center shaft is just like new and it didn't have any slop that I could feel and rotated fine. I have the frame all apart and sandblasting everything and priming with epoxy so thought now would be the best time to go though it and rebuild it. along with the rest of the front end and bushings.

Alan
06-07-2015, 09:21 PM
B1612, or if you want a little more bearing a B1616

TWChamp
06-08-2015, 04:59 AM
A good local source for bearings and seals is CUTTER SALES in Brooklyn Park, just a half mile north of Fleet Farm. 763-425-8696 Paul can order or has in stock most any bearing or seal you might need.

swvalcon
06-08-2015, 11:10 AM
TW I called cutter sales and they have the bearings I need in stock and also a heavier duty one that's 1" instead of 3/4" long for just under $8.00 . Hope to get time tomorrow to run over there and pick some up so I can get this rebuilt. Thanks Steve.

rkapteyn
06-08-2015, 12:08 PM
A very good article on Ray's site on fixing these.
http://www.raylinrestoration.com

StudeRich
06-08-2015, 01:43 PM
TW I called cutter sales and they have the bearings I need in stock and also a heavier duty one that's 1" instead of 3/4" long for just under $8.00 . Hope to get time tomorrow to run over there and pick some up so I can get this rebuilt. Thanks Steve.

So for the record, is that Alan's recommended B1616?

swvalcon
06-09-2015, 07:56 PM
Picked up the parts today. The stock bearings are #b1612 which is 1.250 od x1. ID.x .750 The heavier bearing is # b1616 and is 1.250 od x 1. ID x 1. length. I went with the longer bearings as there is a lot of room for them and it adds 1/3 to the bearing surface for the center shaft to ride on. Also picked up two TRW 10121 vm seals 1.250 x 1. Id x 1/8" to seal out dust and dirt on the ends of the shaft and keep the grease in the bearings better. Everything came to just under $25. and should have time to rebuild it yet this week. Will post some pictures as I put it together. If you need a kit to rebuild your 51-62 Bell crank call Cutter sales at 763 425 8696 [Paul] and give them these numbers and I'am sure they will send them to you.

TWChamp
06-09-2015, 09:54 PM
Did you pick up a can of Kroil while you were there? I've only known about Kroil for a few years, but have had good luck with it. I don't know where to buy it locally except from Paul.

BTW, Paul took over the business when his folks retired about 10 years ago, and they taught him well.

swvalcon
06-10-2015, 04:02 PM
I will see if I can explain what I did here. Picture 1 is all the parts that I picked up yesterday. #2 I lubed everything up good with ATF. and tapped the bearing in to start with a small rubber hammer. Then took a piece of spring center bolt I had in the junk and put flat washers and nuts and used this to pull the bearing in flush. Then used a socket under 1 1/4" od but large enough to pull the bearing in a extra 1/8" for the oil seal and hammered in the seal. Did this on both sides. Installed the shaft with some motor oil and tightened it as tight as I could get it by hand. This made the shaft so you couldn't turn it and then backed it off to the first spot you could install the cotter key. It now is nice and snug but turns free and smooth. All that is left at this point is put in the key and it's ready to install. Took a hour maybe a little less to do.

starliner62
06-10-2015, 06:55 PM
I like the seals you used.