My Starting Setup - Attempt to be Factory Original:
I installed PS on my 63 R2 Super Lark and bot the SI kit with the loop spring, etc. but could only guess where the loop was anchored.
I put a spring tab on the steering column to box clamp and hooked the spring loop to it - this kept a steady aft pull on the hose loop from the Eaton pump.
The sleeve which keeps the two hoses together I positioned between the loop and the control valve.
PROBLEM: When the control valve is maximum forward position (RH turn to lock), it put a severe bend in the return hose where it was crimped to the tubing coming off the control valve - it is now leaking!
Here are some pics. I already have the loop off and if you look carefully, you will see the spring attachment tab on the steering column clamp.
The PROBLEM as I see it:
Assuming I have the basic routing "correct," the pump hoses, coming off their tubing at the control valve are pointing upward and forward so that the hoses can clear the steering box shaft when the control valve is Full Aft Position (FAP).
In the FAP, the hoses have the following bends starting from the control valve: (viewed from side from inside the wheel well)
The hoses are fairly happy when FAP.
However, the opposite is true in the Full Forward Position (FFP). Now the Loop Spring has a lot of force and is putting the hose crimps at the control valve in severe duress. Any my return hose failed (is leaking.)
The hose routing for the cylinder is fine. It consists of a single 180* bend and there is no strain on the hose crimps.
The hose routing for the pump has a stressed 135* bend which is simply a design to be avoided.
Solution - Single 180* Hose Bend:
With a single 180* bend, there would be no bending at the crimps and the control valve could move fore and aft without putting the hose under any duress.
Top Routing:
Tubing would have to be bent that would wrap around the steering box shaft when in FAP so that the hose would attach horizontally aft.
There would be a single 180* bend at the loop spring.
Bottom Routing:
Tubing would have to be bent that would allow the hoses to attach horizontally aft like the cylinder hoses. (This seems to be the way Hawk and Avanti are routed.)
I am not sure how the routing would have to change from the pump: The OE routing is simply aft, but if bottom routing, the hoses would have to go downward to frame bottom. The return line would be trivial, but the pressure line may need a different tubing end bend.
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One Other Solution: Vertical Pull Loop Spring:
If the Loop Spring was attached to spring tab where the master cylinder bolts to the PB booster, there would be an upward pull that would significantly minimize the return hose kink at its control valve tubing crimp.
While not ideal for hose articulation, this would be the simplest. However, this would be similar to OE and involve hoses rubbing against the exhaust manifold.
I can get hoses made locally (Murray Electric again) and perhaps just get the existing return hose recrimped.
_________________________________
Suggestions?
I'm all ears because any of these solutions are going to be a major PITA.
I installed PS on my 63 R2 Super Lark and bot the SI kit with the loop spring, etc. but could only guess where the loop was anchored.
I put a spring tab on the steering column to box clamp and hooked the spring loop to it - this kept a steady aft pull on the hose loop from the Eaton pump.
The sleeve which keeps the two hoses together I positioned between the loop and the control valve.
PROBLEM: When the control valve is maximum forward position (RH turn to lock), it put a severe bend in the return hose where it was crimped to the tubing coming off the control valve - it is now leaking!
Here are some pics. I already have the loop off and if you look carefully, you will see the spring attachment tab on the steering column clamp.
The PROBLEM as I see it:
Assuming I have the basic routing "correct," the pump hoses, coming off their tubing at the control valve are pointing upward and forward so that the hoses can clear the steering box shaft when the control valve is Full Aft Position (FAP).
In the FAP, the hoses have the following bends starting from the control valve: (viewed from side from inside the wheel well)
- Bend around the steering box shaft CW (about 135* bend)
- U-Bend around loop CCW (about 180* bend)
The hoses are fairly happy when FAP.
However, the opposite is true in the Full Forward Position (FFP). Now the Loop Spring has a lot of force and is putting the hose crimps at the control valve in severe duress. Any my return hose failed (is leaking.)
The hose routing for the cylinder is fine. It consists of a single 180* bend and there is no strain on the hose crimps.
The hose routing for the pump has a stressed 135* bend which is simply a design to be avoided.
Solution - Single 180* Hose Bend:
With a single 180* bend, there would be no bending at the crimps and the control valve could move fore and aft without putting the hose under any duress.
Top Routing:
Tubing would have to be bent that would wrap around the steering box shaft when in FAP so that the hose would attach horizontally aft.
There would be a single 180* bend at the loop spring.
Bottom Routing:
Tubing would have to be bent that would allow the hoses to attach horizontally aft like the cylinder hoses. (This seems to be the way Hawk and Avanti are routed.)
I am not sure how the routing would have to change from the pump: The OE routing is simply aft, but if bottom routing, the hoses would have to go downward to frame bottom. The return line would be trivial, but the pressure line may need a different tubing end bend.
_________________________________
One Other Solution: Vertical Pull Loop Spring:
If the Loop Spring was attached to spring tab where the master cylinder bolts to the PB booster, there would be an upward pull that would significantly minimize the return hose kink at its control valve tubing crimp.
While not ideal for hose articulation, this would be the simplest. However, this would be similar to OE and involve hoses rubbing against the exhaust manifold.
I can get hoses made locally (Murray Electric again) and perhaps just get the existing return hose recrimped.
_________________________________
Suggestions?
I'm all ears because any of these solutions are going to be a major PITA.
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