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Accessory Oil Filter Installation '61 Lark

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  • Engine: Accessory Oil Filter Installation '61 Lark

    Hi All,
    As a newbie to Studebaker Larks, I'm not sure how to connect my Auxillary Oil Filter that came with my '61 Lark. Oddly it had the filter and bracket attached to the engine block, but no hoses were connected to either the engine or filter. As such, it serves no purpose, but I'd love to hook it up. My car has the OHV 6 with a manual transmission (3 on the tree), so it's a fairly "basic" car/engine set-up. It runs just fine, and is a "hoot" to drive, but I sure would love to get that filter installed and working. Althought I have an original "Shop Manual '59 - '61, Chassis Parts Manual & Body Parts Manual and Accessories Brochure, no where in any of those books does it show how to connect the filter to the engine block. And to boot, my "filter bracket" is mounted near the back of the engine (close to the firewall) and I think it's supposed to be mounted closer to the front (near the radiator) of the engine.
    Any help or copies of installation would be most appreciated.
    Thanks,

    George

  • #2
    Buy a copy of the original installation instructions here:
    Restorations by Skip Towne

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    • #3
      Thanks, I was directed to that site in my other post and ordered a few of his templates. What a great idea to collect them all in one place. I'll see if I have any he doesn't to add to the "library".

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      • #4
        Intrepid -

        If you are doing this for originality, by all means do it.

        But if you are doing this to actually clean the oil, save yourself the time, money and clutter and just change the oil more often.
        If you look at the orifice diameter in the "in" line or the filter itself or the restrictor itself (one or more of the three locations), you may notice just how big (or better..tiny), the orifice is.
        While I've seen information that says that all of the oil will be filtered in a (given, short amount of time, one hour !?), in my experience, it would take about two days of continious driving to put all of the crankcase oil (5 quarts) worth of oil thru the filter...once..!

        I looked into all this when I bought my 59 Lark, with a 259 (V-8) in it. A combination of reading and what I know about flow and the mixing of a fluid, I just figured I'd be ahead by changing the oil in about 3500/4000 mile intervals.
        So far...I've put just over 93,000 miles on my filterless engine with no sign of bad bearings (low pressure or knocking sounds).

        Not saying that all engines should go without, just that the "partial flow" filter arangements are mostly usless (in my opinion..!).

        Mike

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        • #5
          True, a partial flow system does "borrow" oil, but this allows the filter element to be much finer since it doesn't have to immediately supply the oil pump like a full flow system does. Partial flow filters are widely used in industrial applications, so don't believe any negative comments.

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          • #6
            It's my opinion that even though there is a restrictor in the line to the filter, the filter will remove a bunch of fine particles of abrasives from the oil over time. If an oil filter wasn't important, Studebaker wouldn't have offered one as an option for their engines. Bud

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            • #7
              Ford made a big deal of the full flow filter setup they included in the "New V8" described in the 1954 SAE paper 540266 describing the "Y-block".
              See attached image.


              FWIW Wix rates the spin on bypass filter 51050 at 10 microns, and the later full flow cartridge element 51049 at 21 microns.

              The Wix 51037 (used by FOrd and Volvo) is rated 15 microns
              and 51515 ( used by everybody ) is rated 21 microns
              Attached Files

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