View Full Version : Body: Keeping water out of the body

05-11-2015, 08:06 PM
In our climate, enjoying our 1947 Champion sooner or later means driving in the rain, and splashing in the puddles. Does anyone have a solution to water coming in around the master cylinder access hole, or around the clutch and brake pedals?
I replaced the spring clips holding the master cylinder access cover, and even made a gasket from an old tire tube to go between the cover and the floor. Also replaced the pedal seals (grommets). None of this has made much difference.

05-11-2015, 08:19 PM
Buy a Weasel! Thats the only amphibious vehicle Studebaker ever produced. I haven't had either of the problems you describe with my 1950 Champion to any noticeable extent, even in the car wash. I was concerned about water coming in through the pedal holes, so I replaced the rubber seals there. The master cylinder access hole is out of sight and out of mind under the mat, so I've never noticed whether water seeps in through there. Perhaps you could use a screw in place of the clip on the MC cover to press it against your gasket?

05-11-2015, 08:28 PM
Applying a little dumm-dumm around the seals should solve the issue. It will make it only slightly more inconvenient to check you MC fluid. http://3mcollision.com/3m-strip-calk-08578-black.html?WT.mc_id=www.3m.com/product/information/Strip-Caulk.html

05-11-2015, 10:22 PM
If the seals are all working as they should it shouldn't be leaking water, I would check all the floor seals real good to be sure there are not something wrong with them.

05-12-2015, 12:14 AM
When I bought my 1950 Champion a year ago there was a deep water stain under the rear seat. I wish I knew the story behind that one, because I'd hate to get caught in the rain and have my new upholstery and carpet get soaked.

Dwain G.
05-12-2015, 12:37 AM
There is a 1949 service bulletin showing how to install the '49 style splash shields on '47 and '48 models. A different clutch shield and 2 pieces for the brake pedal. The '49 shields were much improved apparently.

05-13-2015, 10:51 AM
I was going to suggest a shield like Dwain posted. The came on all the C/Ks.

05-13-2015, 03:20 PM
Go to a pick a part and find some import with a remote resivoir. Take the fill cap from the master cyllinder off and drill the proper size hole in it and tap it for a 1/8 inch pipe fitting. Use teflon tape and thread in a 90 degree fitting. Replace the master cylinder cap and use some tygon tubeing to the fitting threaded into the mastercylinder cap. Find a convienant place and mount the resevoir and run the tygon tubeing to it. slowly fill the resivoil and work the bubbles out of the line. Now that you have a remote resivoir for your master cylinder you can seal up the factory access hole as you no longer need it.

05-19-2015, 07:17 PM
Thank you, everyone, for your good ideas. They are much appreciated!

05-19-2015, 07:36 PM
I'd been driving Studes for more than forty years before I did my first body-off-frame restoration. When I got the body stripped, it became obvious why the floors are always rusted out. All Studes, but especially the C/K floor and firewall are so full of factory-punched holes, it looks like Swiss cheese down there.

Given a few years, after the rubber seals get hard and especially when the lazy mechanic figured the owner would never miss the sheet metal shields, water just pours in. Then, that thoughtfully specified jute-backed rubber mat absorbs the water and holds it where it can do the most damage.

I haven't had either of the problems you describe with my 1950 Champion to any noticeable extent, even in the car wash.
Once and once only, when I was young and car washes were still a novelty, I was on my way to a date and took a K-body through a car wash. At the gal's house, I had to borrow towels to make me and the interior dry enough for her to get in. She was not impressed with me or the Stude.

jack vines