Studebaker shop needed

[wlfrench]

I need the name of a shop in the Baltimore MD area to do work on my 62 GT. I can do somethings but I may need to replace a motor mount. That's more than I'm equipped to handle.

[rockne10]

Wayne,
If you are a member of your local SDC chapter, they should be able to steer you in the right direction, or even assist you in doing it yourself. The motor mount in these is one of the easier DIY projects, with a couple of the correct tools. And should be no problem for any decent mechanic, Studebaker or otherwise.

http://studebakerdriversclub.com/chapters.asp

[wlfrench]

I called my regular mechanic and he wouldn't touch it. Said he doesn't work on "those kind of cars." His father, was a much better mechanic anyway but he retired about 5 years ago and moved to FL. I could do the job myself but its been over 30 years since I've done much wrench turning and I'm just not set up to do that kind of work anymore. I don't have a engine hoist nor do I have a place to store one if I was to run out to Harbor Freight and get one. I'm kind of afraid to take my car to a shop where my car is as old as the grandfathers of the "mechanics" working there and they don't know how to work on a car without an inboard computer to tell them whats wrong. The local Studebaker clubs are Down in the DC area and the Eastern shore. The local speed shops are all geared towards the import tuners not domestic muscle. I know I'm gonna halfta do more of the work myself but right now I just want to get her on the road.

[mbstude]

It's pretty easy to replace the mount by placing a floor jack under the oil pan and lifting the engine up a couple of inches.

A piece of wood between the jack and the pan will keep any damage from occurring.

[60ragtop]

I need the name of a shop in the Baltimore MD area to do work on my 62 GT. I can do somethings but I may need to replace a motor mount. That's more than I'm equipped to handle.

Try calling Ross Miller of Speedwell Garage. He's on Dairy Road in Parkton. 410-357-4561. Also, about 3 years ago I got the name of a Jack Stephan. I've never used him but my note says he works on Studes. As I recall, he's in the Glen Burnie area. 410-255-6978. Hope this helps.

[ed ellis]

In Baltimore---At York Rd and Timonium Rd about 1/4 mile east on Timonium Rd and you will see a gas station on the left. Ask for Bill Joyce. He is the finest general automotive mechanic I have ever known. In the interest of full disclosure he is married to my niece

[rockne10]

As Matthew said, it's a pretty simple job for any mechanic who can rely on his fingers instead of his/her computer. Disconnect the exhaust from the manifolds, remove two nuts from the mount, jack it up, slip in the new mount, lower it, screw it down and re-attach the exhaust. Any mechanic who can not see that is terrified of his/her own profession.

[wlfrench]

Well if that's all there is to it I'll just to get under there and take a look. I haven't had a real chance to drive it as I haven't got tags on it yet but, don't tell anyone, I did take her around the block once. When I gave it a little gas in first gear it sounded like the fan was banging into the fan shroud so I really need to get that sorted out.

[64V-K7]

wlfrench, check your email..

[rockne10]

Wayne, open the hood and have someone observe as you turn on the coal with the transmission in gear and the brakes fully engaged. If your engine moves off the frame you've identified the culprit mount. If the exhaust didn't link the engine to the frame this repair would be absolutely minimal.

[karterfred88]

I'd advise against the "wood block on pan" method of lifting the engine enough to clear the mount studs--looking at the pan on my Avanti--it doesn't always lead to "no or minimal damage"!! Still a simple borrowed (or rented for those with no place to store one) engine hoist to raise it, disconnecting the exhaust pipe(s) on the offending side (s), and a wrench to take the nuts off the mount studs, is all that's needed. Just don't raise it too far--or better yet raise it enough to do both, if ones gone the other's ready to anyway. If you have an A/T it might be time to replace the trans mounts also, engine oil and trans fluid leakage destroy them fast, and if you have the engine lifted with the engine crane they go in and out with no effort--just 4 bolts, and two nuts, and with any luck should last another 50 years.

[Skip Lackie]

I've done it with a wood block under the rear LIP of the pan, so it really is pushing against the engine block.