WIRING HARNESS INCLUDES WHAT?

[Jimmie]

A week or so ago I requested information about wiring harnesses and was told that I should be able to buy one for under $200. In checking in the Studebaker International Catalogue I find that if I get the complete harness, front, middle back, overdrive etc. that it will be over $300. If someone knows where I can get the complete harness for under $200 please let me know. If I do get a readymade harness:
1. will the wires be labeled as to exactly what each one is to be attached to or will I have to figure this out using the old wires? 2. will the ends of the wires have the same attachments so they can just be plugged in etc?
3. will they come taped together, like they are on the car now?

1950 2 timer

[StudeRich]

There is no such thing as a "Complete" car wire harness because they are not connected.

The main harness from dash to engine is complete and looks the same on the outside of the wrap as the original, however will not have cloth covered wires inside, that rots out soon.

The same color codes as they are now can be looked up in the Studebaker Shop manual Wiring Diagram for location and will apply to the new harness.

All terminals will be as close to or exactly the same as original as possible in todays world.

You should have gotten all this info from your supplier. If not, maybe you need to check others on the studebakervendors.com website.

StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

[StudeRich]

There is no such thing as a "Complete" car wire harness because they are not connected.

The main harness from dash to engine is complete and looks the same on the outside of the wrap as the original, however will not have cloth covered wires inside, that rots out soon.

The same color codes as they are now can be looked up in the Studebaker Shop manual Wiring Diagram for location and will apply to the new harness.

All terminals will be as close to or exactly the same as original as possible in todays world.

You should have gotten all this info from your supplier. If not, maybe you need to check others on the studebakervendors.com website.

StudeRich
Studebakers Northwest
Ferndale, WA

[bams50]

quote:Originally posted by Jimmie


A week or so ago I requested information about wiring harnesses and was told that I should be able to buy one for under $200. In checking in the Studebaker International Catalogue I find that if I get the complete harness, front, middle back, overdrive etc. that it will be over $300. If someone knows where I can get the complete harness for under $200 please let me know. If I do get a readymade harness:
1. will the wires be labeled as to exactly what each one is to be attached to or will I have to figure this out using the old wires? 2. will the ends of the wires have the same attachments so they can just be plugged in etc?
3. will they come taped together, like they are on the car now?

1950 2 timer

I just bought a NOS one for a 62 Daytona V8 off eBay from "dolsr" for $99; turned out it was SASCO. This covers all dashboard and under hood.

It comes with all wires at correct length with correct ends, and taped where they were intended.

I would recommend contacting them; great folks 1

Robert (Bob) Andrews Owner- IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
Parish, central NY 13131

[bams50]

quote:Originally posted by Jimmie


A week or so ago I requested information about wiring harnesses and was told that I should be able to buy one for under $200. In checking in the Studebaker International Catalogue I find that if I get the complete harness, front, middle back, overdrive etc. that it will be over $300. If someone knows where I can get the complete harness for under $200 please let me know. If I do get a readymade harness:
1. will the wires be labeled as to exactly what each one is to be attached to or will I have to figure this out using the old wires? 2. will the ends of the wires have the same attachments so they can just be plugged in etc?
3. will they come taped together, like they are on the car now?

1950 2 timer

I just bought a NOS one for a 62 Daytona V8 off eBay from "dolsr" for $99; turned out it was SASCO. This covers all dashboard and under hood.

It comes with all wires at correct length with correct ends, and taped where they were intended.

I would recommend contacting them; great folks 1

Robert (Bob) Andrews Owner- IoMT (Island of Misfit Toys!)
Parish, central NY 13131

[JDP]

Bams, SASCO has very little for cars like the 1950, and no early wiring harnesses at all. BTW, $300 for all three harness is about right.

JDP/Maryland
63 R2 SuperHawk (Caesar)
spent to date $54,758.75
64 R2 GT (Sid)
spent to date $62,439.30
63 Lark 2 door
52 Starliner
51 Commander
39 Coupe express
39 Coupe express (rod)

[JDP]

Bams, SASCO has very little for cars like the 1950, and no early wiring harnesses at all. BTW, $300 for all three harness is about right.

JDP/Maryland
63 R2 SuperHawk (Caesar)
spent to date $54,758.75
64 R2 GT (Sid)
spent to date $62,439.30
63 Lark 2 door
52 Starliner
51 Commander
39 Coupe express
39 Coupe express (rod)

[bondobilly]

If you check Rhode Island Wiring and Yesterday's Wires be prepared for a cornary. A complete 1947 harness set will set you back well over $1500. Engine-dash is about $900, Body is $300 and then there are the dirctional signals, backup lights, heater/defroster, cigarette lighter ad nauseum. plus you will need to buy connectors. You do get a choice of original (cloth loom) or plastic.

Rhode Island Wiring supplies you with a complete guide and all wires match the old color code. All wires come with proper connectors except for the connectors that join wires from other harnesses. Check their web page as they do list some connectors that you must re-use from the original harness. One example is the horn connector on a 56J you must use the original. On Post War cars (1947 -52)You must use the special bulb holder for the speedometer as it has a longer neck.

[bondobilly]

If you check Rhode Island Wiring and Yesterday's Wires be prepared for a cornary. A complete 1947 harness set will set you back well over $1500. Engine-dash is about $900, Body is $300 and then there are the dirctional signals, backup lights, heater/defroster, cigarette lighter ad nauseum. plus you will need to buy connectors. You do get a choice of original (cloth loom) or plastic.

Rhode Island Wiring supplies you with a complete guide and all wires match the old color code. All wires come with proper connectors except for the connectors that join wires from other harnesses. Check their web page as they do list some connectors that you must re-use from the original harness. One example is the horn connector on a 56J you must use the original. On Post War cars (1947 -52)You must use the special bulb holder for the speedometer as it has a longer neck.

[Skip Lackie]

To espand on Studerich's response: If you get a harness from one of the Studebaker vendors, the ends will not be labeled, but the connectors will be identical to the original. You should use the original harness and the wiring diagram in the shop manual to label the ends with masking tape or something else. A trick I have found useful is to draw up a map of the back of the dashboard showing where each wire goes.

Skip Lackie
Washington DC

[Skip Lackie]

To espand on Studerich's response: If you get a harness from one of the Studebaker vendors, the ends will not be labeled, but the connectors will be identical to the original. You should use the original harness and the wiring diagram in the shop manual to label the ends with masking tape or something else. A trick I have found useful is to draw up a map of the back of the dashboard showing where each wire goes.

Skip Lackie
Washington DC

[curt]

I just replaced a main wireing harness on a '55 President. I labeled each wire at each end as it was removed from a connection. I cut the harness at the firewall after all labeling was done. Removed each section of old harness. I used a wireing digrams to label the new harness. Then I compared the two harness side by side on a table. I pulled the dash-end of the new harness through the firewall and reconnected everything. I did not remove the dash ,BUT I removed everything attached to the dash, radio, spedo, switches, stearing wheel,etc. Also I removed the front seat cushion and placed a plywood sheet over the seat's frame and heater. This gave me room to work under the dash. The hard part for me was the headlight switch,it must have 10 wires ans 8 different posts, label well. Car started up and everything worked as needed when I finished. Take your time and it will be a job well done.

[curt]

I just replaced a main wireing harness on a '55 President. I labeled each wire at each end as it was removed from a connection. I cut the harness at the firewall after all labeling was done. Removed each section of old harness. I used a wireing digrams to label the new harness. Then I compared the two harness side by side on a table. I pulled the dash-end of the new harness through the firewall and reconnected everything. I did not remove the dash ,BUT I removed everything attached to the dash, radio, spedo, switches, stearing wheel,etc. Also I removed the front seat cushion and placed a plywood sheet over the seat's frame and heater. This gave me room to work under the dash. The hard part for me was the headlight switch,it must have 10 wires ans 8 different posts, label well. Car started up and everything worked as needed when I finished. Take your time and it will be a job well done.

[Buddy1944]

I did a total replacement of ever wire except the interior light on my '54 Champion 15G. My total outlay was about $180 and I have a bunch of wire and stuff left over. It was very easy to do and it made a huge difference, especially the headlights.

Buddy...'54 Champion 2dr
Warner Robins, GA 31088
478-953-3077

[Buddy1944]

I did a total replacement of ever wire except the interior light on my '54 Champion 15G. My total outlay was about $180 and I have a bunch of wire and stuff left over. It was very easy to do and it made a huge difference, especially the headlights.

Buddy...'54 Champion 2dr
Warner Robins, GA 31088
478-953-3077