Speedo / Tach / Gauges: Clock Rebuild 1963 Hawk

[Paul Keller]

Just finished cleaning & oiling & filing the points on my '63 Hawk clock - Used the method described at:

raylinrestoration.com/TechnicalPages

Only diff. was that I was unable to remove the wind knob - Just could not get a strong enough grip on the wind shaft to keep it from turning. Was able to rotate the face of the clock (after removing the body) enough to clean and lube the mechanism. being VERY careful not to get any of the cleaner or oil on the dial face. Also filed the burned points (which was the main problem) to mostly clean condition.

While testing the unit (before re-assembly) noticed that the points sparked/arced at each energizing spurt - Probably the cause of the points burning originally. since the distributor points use a condenser (a type of capacitor) to reduce arcing, I tried the same w/ the clock, using a 100 mf 35volt capacitor (radio shack has them-very common). The arcing has been noticeably reduced. The value of the capacitor was "guesstimated" - perhaps some tech person can provide a more accurate electrical value.

Paul TK

[jackb]

I've performed this same operation on many Stude clocks. All of them sparked. I wouldn't think its a problem, but I'll defer to electrical others. The best way to remove the dial knob is to pull, then grab the shaft with needle-nose pliers and regular pliers on the knob. Turn counter clockwise + works every time...

[63 R2 Hawk]

Whenever you have electrical contacts switching current (ignition points, relay contacts, switch contacts, clock rewind contacts), the contact points will arc. That's why auto ignition points use a condenser (capacitor) to reduce arcing. Eventually the arcing will cause the contact points to burn, that's just the way it is. If you're electrically inclined, you could try a basic arc supression circuit. Here's a start.....http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arc_suppression .

[bezhawk]

I rebuilt the clock on my 5O Land Cruiser, and we used a diode to reduce the arcing. It worked great.

[Paul Keller]

An Old Car magazine back several years ago showed how a diode could bypass the current draw across the clocks points.
Would you be able to describe/show which diode you used how it was wired?
Paul TK

[bezhawk]

Something like this. It was like 6A @ 5O volts. The anode [bar end] goes to the power source, and the cathode end goes to ground. I soldered a ring terminal to it and put it on the power terminal, and soldered the other end to the case.