So far I replaced my Distributor, Coil, put in plugs which I just cleaned up do to trying to get it started and they got a little black, I set the timing with a Timing Light, Did a oil change, drained the coolant and put in new thermostat and new coolant. Now When I start the car which sometimes it takes a while to chug a little bit but then it idles nice but when I put it into gear it doesn't want to stay running. There are times that I can drive it some but when taking slow turns it will stall but on a nice day like today I could hardly move it cause it would stall then may not start right away. I tried advancing the timing some but it would idle very fast. One more question: I can't find anything in my books about the Vacuum Advance on the distributor which came with 5 different spacers. I'm not sure how many or if only one should go in the advance if any. Thanks in advance, John.
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John, I have not seen spacers like you mention. I have had Delco and Autolite distributors and I'm not sure what you have or what year it came from, it does make a difference. Also is this an automatic or manual transmission car? Did you remove and plug the vacuum line to the advance canister while setting the timing? Plug the vacuum source from the carb. How is the carburetor?
If you have a vacuum gauge hook it up to the manifold and see what it tells you.
Small details can make a big difference when describing the components you are working with as you will get answers faster.
Len -
Thanks Len, I did not plug the vacuum source to the carb but I will try this tomorrow if time permits. I have a 1959 Lark with a automatic transmission. In my manual the vacuum advance that I mentioned is called a spark modifier but a guy in my club calls it a vacuum advance. The carb was supposed to have been rebuilt. I will try these steps when I get a chance and thanks for your help.Comment
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Where did you get the distributor from? As in, what year engine is it for? If you don't know see if it has a serial/model number and we can go from there.
LenComment
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I bought it from Studebaker International. They didn't have the same one that I had on the car but they said it would work fine. I will get the serial/model #'s in the morning. Talk to you soon.Comment
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They should have given you the right one. As long as it is not a later OHV. I tried that once and it took a while to figure it out but they won't work.
How is the fuel pump and filter? It sounds like a fuel thing.
As long as you don't need for daily driving it shouldn't take long to figure this one out.
In the morning I'm sure others will have some input.
Len.Comment
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Unusual "handle", a vacuum guage and large measuring cup will help diagnose a weak fuel pump. also the vacuum guage will give clues to timing and valve problems. maybe a comp. test is in order. next time it stalls check under hood for spark and fuel and let us know what you find. those spacers probably are to change vac. advance rate. luck DoofusComment
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If the distributor is an Autolite unit, there are shims inside the neck of the advance where the vacuum line connects. They are used to adjust the tension of the spring that controls the rate of vacuum advance. Some of the older Delco advance units could also be adjusted that way. You may have a carburetor problem, but don't rule out the possibility of a bad condenser causing the same symptoms as a carburetor. Also be sure that the points are set correctly and you have the correct coil on the engine. The 6 cylinder Larks use a coil with an internal ballast resistor. BudComment
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Thank you everyone, I haven't had a chance to tinker but I talk to the guy that rebuilt the distributor for Stude International and after thinking for a minute he said to put all of the shims in the neck after doing the timing. I started fooling with cars at a late age so I'm not to speed with all of you, but I love it, SOME days. Is disconnecting the advance enough to do the timing? What is the measuring cup for? (Whiskey)?HAHAHA sorry. The coil is new and has a internal resistor. I will try the timing in the next day or so then I will move onto your other suggestions. I take notes from all of you and hang them on a clip board in my garage for references. Thanks again and talk soon, John.Comment
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One thing that has not been mentioned is the use of the workshop manual. If you don't have one get one. If you do have one then just follow the directions for the distributor or in the tune up section and you most usually won't go wrong.
LenComment
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The measuring cup is to determine fuel pump output, so much fuel pumped in so many seconds. or whiskey but don't mix the two! DoofusComment
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Check to see if the accelerator pump in the carburator works.
Look in the inlet of the carb and move the accelerator linkage.
You should see some gas squirt in the carb.
A vacuum advance is a spark modifier in Studebaker lanquage.Comment
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Well the Lark wouldn't run long today. I am getting gas squirting into the carb but I noticed the rubber line between the fuel line and the fuel pump is pretty dry rotted so I will replace with new. I also noticed the choke tube is almost flat near the carb but I blew air through it with ease. I am not sure if I should replace it, which I can not find in the Stude Intern. catalog except for a 4 barrel carb.. I do have a new fuel pump that I purchased awhile ago that I haven't replaced yet. I was off for a week and didn't want to wait for parts if I needed one but the Stude started so I figured DON'T TOUCH ANYTHING!!!Comment
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Those old hard rubber hoses can cause lots of problems and one is when they break down internally and send bits of black rubber into the fuel pump check valves and into the carb. That ethanol crap gas has destroyed many older fuel hoses, including the one on my 1949 Chevy 1 1/2 ton truck. That one cost me a full tank of gas when it went bad after filling with ethanol crap gas.Comment
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you'r gonna need a fuel filter before the fuel pump to strain the crud from the tank and line. also sounds like a carb problem now, maybe it needs cleaning out now. good instructions in shop manual. good luck DoofusComment
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