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  • Engine: R2 Idle Speed

    At what RPMs should an R2 engine idle? Can anyone direct me to info on setting a choke correctly? Until my R2 Hawk reaches operating temperature it wants to idle around 1500 RPMs...when it warms up it wants to idle at around 900 to 1100 RPMs...any suggestions?
    Lou Van Anne
    62 Champ
    64 R2 GT Hawk
    79 Avanti II

  • #2
    It's probably is caused by a defective throttle kicker. The aluminum canister shaped thing with a vacuum line running to it that is attached to the front bolt on the driver side of your AFB Carburetor.. These tend to malfunction over time. They were designed to speed up the idle if the engine was about to stall. One solution is to remove the offending item and the other solution is to purchase and install a new one. With the throttle kicker removed the idle should drop to normal around 800 rpm. I do not use one and my Avanti performs OK.

    Peter

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    • #3
      Originally posted by KOOL R2 View Post
      It's probably is caused by a defective throttle kicker. The aluminum canister shaped thing with a vacuum line running to it that is attached to the front bolt on the driver side of your AFB Carburetor.. These tend to malfunction over time. They were designed to speed up the idle if the engine was about to stall. One solution is to remove the offending item and the other solution is to purchase and install a new one. With the throttle kicker removed the idle should drop to normal around 800 rpm. I do not use one and my Avanti performs OK.

      Peter
      Performs ok!? That might be the understatement of the year!

      Ted

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      • #4
        I keep the 'low idle' speed on my '63 R2 at about 650RPM....below that it gets a bit 'lumpy'. I purchased a new 'throttle kicker' from Dave Thibeault...and it works 'As Advertised'

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        • #5
          What's a throttle kicker? Doesn't seem to exist on my carb, but it may not be original, except for the sticker on the side that says it is, except maybe somebody messed with it before I got it...... My Avanti sets up at 1400 rpm when cold and kicks down to about 800 after 3-5 minutes, depending on ambient temp. A bit hot but I will live with it until I get the blower rebuilt.

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          • #6
            Lou, Are you going to bring your R2 Hawk. I love to take pictures of your engine compartment. Need Help. I am restoring a R2 Hawk.

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            • #7
              the "kicker" is vacuum referenced to the engine. a spring inside is held compressed 'till the engine starts to stall and loses vacuum, then the kicker spring opens the throttle slightily till idle speed and vac. are normalized, and all is right with the world. Luck Doofus

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              • #8
                Sounds like a vacuum leak. My 63 R2 Avanti with A/T will idle at 650 to 675 smoothly when warmed up. But only after much experimentation with jets and rods for our wonderful gasohol. Assuming the idle speed screw on the choke linkage has been set correctly on the cam and the choke is fully open, you should be able to stall the engine by backing off the main idle speed screw on the throttle stop of the carb primary throttle plates. If you can't stall it look for the vacuum leak or the screw on the choke linkage touching the fast idle cam, cam not rotating correctly (small hair spring missing or broken) or linkage to the choke being bent incorrectly. If that's all okay, I'd start by pulling all the vacuum hoses and temporarily plug each at the carb, choke tube inlet to the carb (stove tube rusted through or cracked) and manifold "T". If that doesn't change it and allow to lower the idle, replace the carb base gasket. Check the "hot air compensator valve" making sure its closed by pressing down on the bimetal strip to see if that slows it down (cheap part) with the air cleaner off. Then tighten the intake manifold bolts, incase you've got a leak there. Also possible, but not as likely, the choke pull off piston is stuck in the choke housing or the "o" ring seal in the choke housing to carb body is damaged. Also possible, if the carb was rebuilt and fully disassembled, including butterfly removal from the primary carb shaft, that they aren't fully closing, but that would require carb removal and loosening the butterfly screws to allow the butterflies to reseat all the way closed, then retightening and peening so they don't loosen and get ingested --makes for very nasty damage. The idle kicker can be removed or left in place, so long as it doesn't prevent the throttle plates from being stopped by the main idle screw on the carb itself, it should not be used to set the idle speed. And of course the basics-- basic timing not too advanced, correct dwell, valves not set too tight, and mixture screws properly adjusted. Good luck!!!
                Last edited by karterfred88; 04-13-2015, 08:57 AM.

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                • #9
                  Sounds like a vacuum leak.
                  When I first bought my R1, the intake gaskets had rusted away. Composition gaskets at least won't rust.

                  jack vines
                  PackardV8

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                  • #10
                    It will be there...even if I have to push it across the street.
                    Originally posted by royvaldez View Post
                    Lou, Are you going to bring your R2 Hawk. I love to take pictures of your engine compartment. Need Help. I am restoring a R2 Hawk.
                    Lou Van Anne
                    62 Champ
                    64 R2 GT Hawk
                    79 Avanti II

                    Comment

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