63 avanti voltage regulator

[bssmnbll]

I can't imagine what the difference is between a Avanti regulator and any 12 volt Autozone reg., so why is Stude Int. asking $106 for one? Can anybody help me out here?? My problem, at the moment is I can't get power out of my regulator to the power window relay with the key in acc. Windows were working last fall!!

[Studebakercenteroforegon]

The Avanti regulator is a three unit regulator, unlike every other alternator regulator out there. (Except a few Jeep models also used a a three unit regulator.)

[StudeRich]

I don't get it, why do you care about the Voltage Regulator, when the issue could be the Ignition Switch or the Power Window Relay, even a corroded or a loose wire connection?

A Voltage Regulator only controls the charge rate of the Alternator, and has nothing to do with the Power Window System.

[GinettaG12P]

Not exactly on topic, but here goes anyway. I have to remove the wire from the regulator IGNITION terminal on my 1963 Avanti to prevent energizing ALL of the terminals on my ignition switch. That is, with the wire attached to the IGNITION terminal of my regulator, every terminal on the ignition switch (battery, ignition, accessory, and start) is common to the positive terminal of the battery. I checked this with a continuity tester, but with no battery in the system. I can't believe this is how it is supposed to be. Can anyone help me here. Thanks.

[StudeRich]

No it is not correct. It sounds to me like the Power is coming BACK from the Alternator or Voltage Regulator to the Ign. trigger wire backwards! Meaning a Bad Reg. or Alt. unless it is mis-wired.

[GinettaG12P]

I've disconnected the alternator wires one at a time with no improvement, so I'm guessing that the problem is the regulator. I really hate doing diagnosis by replacement, so if you have any insights into which terminals on the regulator should be common and which should be not when all the wires are disconnected, that would help. Thanks.

[TWChamp]

I agree with Rich that the voltage regulator should not enter into the picture. You need to get a wiring schematic and study the flow of power from the switch to the windows.

[GinettaG12P]

I agree with Rich that the voltage regulator should not enter into the picture. You need to get a wiring schematic and study the flow of power from the switch to the windows.

Sorry, I hijacked the posting and my issue does not concern power windows. It is just about how the voltage regulator is supposed to work and what terminals are supposed to be common.

[edpjr]

I bought my new voltage regulator about 5 years ago from O'Reilly's. I think it's same as Chrysler/AMC. It was in-stock, plenty cheap and works well enough with the Prestolite alternator to charge about 14.2 V. It has nothing to do with my power window relay other than they're in close proximity.

[63 R2 Hawk]

I bought a solid state regulator about 5 years ago and haven't had a bit of problems with it. I think it was about $35 and looks identical to the OEM electro-mechanical regulator except no label on it. It's a lot more stable too.

[HawkGT]

I have a solid-state regulator on my '63 Hawk too, and it works great. But I don't think they make solid-state replacements for the big 3-unit Avanti regulator.

[Rerun]

Back in the '70s, when the large Avanti type regulators first began to become rare/expensive, I changed my then "daily driver" '63 Avanti charging system to use the smaller MOPAR-type regulator. I don't recall the exact changes involved, but it was a relatively simple procedure. I compared the schematic from the Avanti to one for my Daytona, and changed the Avanti to match. I seem to recall that it just involved eliminating one wire. It worked fine and is still working today. IIRC, the only difference is that the larger regulator provides reverse-current protection, while the smaller type does not.

Perhaps someone who has copies of both schematics could provide further comment.

[GinettaG12P]

Back in the '70s, when the large Avanti type regulators first began to become rare/expensive, I changed my then "daily driver" '63 Avanti charging system to use the smaller MOPAR-type regulator. I don't recall the exact changes involved, but it was a relatively simple procedure. I compared the schematic from the Avanti to one for my Daytona, and changed the Avanti to match. I seem to recall that it just involved eliminating one wire. It worked fine and is still working today. IIRC, the only difference is that the larger regulator provides reverse-current protection, while the smaller type does not.

Perhaps someone who has copies of both schematics could provide further comment.

It occurs to me that reverse-current protection would not have been necessary if the Avanti had been wired using the convention that all grounds are either green or black and all "hot" leads are red or red with or as a tracer.

[studegary]

It seems to me that adding a diode in the proper place would give reverse-current protection.

Avantis seem to be more prone to electrical fires than any other car that I know of. I remember one SDC International Convention where two Avantis, in the same motel parking lot, had electrical fires on the same day.