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stuck oil pressure relief champion 6

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  • Engine: stuck oil pressure relief champion 6

    Hi all,
    I've got a really stuck oil pressure relief valve, tried the drill method (found on here) no way. Made a tool from an old screwdriver, cut off the handle & welded a bolt on for a tee handle, ground it to fit snugly in the hole in the valve.
    I played with that for 3 days (ok, a few hours a day for 3 days) finally broke the tip off in the valve. Then made a tool from a punch that fit the hole in the valve & cut a slot in it to go into the hole & over the broken screwdriver tip,
    managed to get the broken tip out(wow!). Next i found a easy out that fits the hole good(have a spare valve), still no
    luck even getting the valve to turn. Thinking about using a little heat, but afraid of the effects on the cast iron & gaskets. The engine is in the car. Anybody have any ideas?
    Thanks, Pete

  • #2
    yes: if you don't mind a little mess, remove the screw and start the engine. IF that doesn't "pop" it out, rev the engine some until you, or someone sees it exit. You were changing the oil anyway...right ?

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    • #3
      had idling with the plug & spring out, drove it without the spring, did not move.
      Looking at the other valve I have (from another engine) it has a small hole in it centered on the flat end, guessing maybe .030.

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      • #4
        I had one stuck in a 289 a few years back. It took a while, lots of penetrating oil, ez outs, magnets, heat and words you don't want your Mama to hear before it finally came out!! The block had been cleaned in a vat with the relief valve still in place and it was stuck!!! Now, the first thing I do when tearing an engine apart is remove that valve!
        Jamie McLeod
        Hope Mills, NC

        1963 Lark "Ugly Betty"
        1958 Commander "Christine"
        1964 Wagonaire "Louise"
        1955 Commander Sedan
        1964 Champ
        1960 Lark

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        • #5
          Yes yours is correct, that pin hole is all that Oils the Timing Gears when the valve is closed, IF it is still open!

          You definitely need to free up that Piston some how, I have been lucky I guess, by being able to wedge a Pencil into the hole in the Piston and gently rotating it to remove the Piston for a good cleaning of the Hole and polish of the Piston, replacing the Spring.

          Mine were all V8's and obviously stuck a lot less than yours, but did have 75-80 Lbs. Maxed out Oil Pressure when cold.

          Good luck getting it out. Maybe if you could cut a screwdriver slot in it with PB blaster soaking it may turn and remove.
          Last edited by StudeRich; 04-01-2015, 02:05 PM.
          StudeRich
          Second Generation Stude Driver,
          Proud '54 Starliner Owner
          SDC Member Since 1967

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          • #6
            GOT IT!!! wow what a fight, wound up taking the front of the engine to the bare block. PB blaster, heat gun, easy out, 12" adjustable & a week of nights after work playing with it. Now I have to get a new cam gear & put it back together, but well worth it!

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            • #7
              Originally posted by starliner62 View Post
              I had one stuck in a 289 a few years back. It took a while, lots of penetrating oil, ez outs, magnets, heat and words you don't want your Mama to hear before it finally came out!! The block had been cleaned in a vat with the relief valve still in place and it was stuck!!! Now, the first thing I do when tearing an engine apart is remove that valve!
              Exactly the same problem I had with my 289, maybe the same machine shop lol. PB Blaster worked wonders after spraying and soaking for a few days.

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              • #8
                So I know I'm stepping away from the original post but I have a question regarding my '55 Presidents Speedster 259. I just did some engine work on it, and one of the things that I had planned on doing was replacing the check valve. After removing the oil relief bolt, I found there to be no plunger installed, just the spring. Which answers my question why I had really low oil pressure at stop lights, or when I would come to a stop. But seems like now the tables have turned, when I start the engine (cold start) 75 - 80 psi and if I slightly step on the accelerator it seems like it goes about 80 psi, is that normal?

                If the oil pressure relief valve is working correctly, what should the oil pressure be at a stop light?

                I just don't to have to much oil pressure and me hurt the engine of some sort, or something not working properly.




                Thank you,
                Dylan
                I own a 1955 Studebaker President "Speedster", sat garaged for 20 years
                pulled it out in January of 2013, she is now a weekend driver around town.
                "Making many miles, and many smiles a long the way".

                sigpic

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                • #9
                  from what i've read the champion engine pressure relief valve opens or dumps pressure @ 40 psi (oil pressure over comes spring tension @ 40 psi) don't know about the 289, but 80 psi doesn't sound right. Was the small hole in the end of the valve clear?

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