1950 Engine (What’s not Correct)

[Studebaker Ron]

Hey Guys
My engine was just pulled for a rebuild but I took a few photo before. I am having my paint man spray the engine compartment in a few weeks while the rebuild takes place. Being that I want this car to look 100% original when finished I ask you to offer as much criticism as possible on its current state and what I need to correct. The car is also going back to the original Bermuda Green. Thanks in advance and do not be shy......I have one shot to get it right.

Ron

[stephenj]

Your battery isn't connected and there is no hold down clamps or strap.

[Studebaker Ron]

Good start and thank you. I do have the hold down frame but it does not fit over the battery that I currently in the car.

I am looking for comments on:

what is painted body color under the hood
Any parts missing
Any parts wrong
Details/photo of what it should look like
Is the body tag painted body color? If not what color should it be?
Did the car come with any guard over the fan

And so on. Basically I want to look as it did when delivered in 1950.

Ron

[bezhawk]

Make sure he paints the engine compartment the body color, not black again. [if you want original]

[Studebaker Ron]

Is the panel that the hood latch connects to painted black of body color?

[bezhawk]

I think it was natural metal color, or bright zinc plated.....oops, I mean the latch itself. The panel surrounding was black semi gloss.

[rockne10]

Yes, the "upper air deflector" would be black but the hood latch plate itself was, I believe, cadmium plated. I have bead-blasted mine, sprayed with cold zinc and clear-coated.
For judging purposes, I don't think SDC is deducting for worm-screw hose clamps (AACA might).

[TWChamp]

The wiper, O/D relay, and kickdown switch should NOT be painted. They are natural or cad plated steel, and the wiper is natural potmetal or diecast aluminum. The small steel cover for the wiper is unfinshed, and mine had a light coat of rust. I wire brushed it and wiped oil on it, so it stays nice. The plug wires are solid wire with bare 90* ends, and I found a good set at the junk yard to replace my modern wires.

[Studebaker Ron]

Thanks. By any chance do you have photos of a restored or original engine that I could use as a reference?

[TWChamp]

In fact this morning I was thinking about posting pictures of my engine and asking if anyone can find what's wrong. So here's my engine compartment and I'll list what I know is wrong. The overdrive wires are plastic and should be cloth. The heater hoses connected to the thermostat need to be swapped, so the head hose is on the bottom. I'm going to install original plug wires. The heater hose on the passenger fender needs to be 4" longer and the fender bracket needs to be turned half way around, so the hose is farther from the engine. I already removed an incorrect copper vacuum line for the advance and made a correct steel one from 3/16" brake line with double flares. Notice that the vacuum line leaves the carb in a sweeping curve and at the same time runs slightly upward before it curves back down and runs around the head to the vacuum advance. The slight upward slope will keep any liquid gas or water from collecting in the steel line.

[TWChamp]

Here's 3 more underhood pictures. Ron, by your bracket, I think your air filter should be an oil bath like mine. Also it looks like your dipstick is painted black, but should be plain steel. Do you know what the build sheet says about your air filter? I need to shorten those 2 wires going to my voltage regulator that are too long. I also have original terminals for the voltage regulator wires. V belt pulleys make good bending tools for a gentle curve, like the vacuum line by the carb. I also have the correct battery hold down and will change it after I get it painted black. Since these pictures were taken I have moved the hood cable lock about 1" closer to the latch lever, so the knob doesn't need to be pulled so far. These pictures also show the new repro voltage regulator with the battery terminal on the bottom side. I put on an original regulator with the terminals all on the top side, as seen in the first 3 pictures above.

[Studebaker Ron]

Thanks Tom
My Build Sheet has an X under Wet Air Cleaner W/C so I think you are correct about the oil bath. I have been trying to find one but so far no luck. From my photos you can see I have climatizwe but the build sheet does not have an X indicating that it had one. Not sure if this an error as I have a heat ex-changer under the RHS of the front seat or if the dealer could have added it. The car was delivered to Charlotte and are winters are not to bad but its in no way Florida weather down hear in the winter time. The only additional option indicated on my build sheet is overdrive and the car does have that. Overall it looks like my engine is basically stock with a lot of nasty black paint over the original Bermuda Green and associated components on the firewall.....in addition to missing the oil bath.

Ron

Ron

[TWChamp]

My build sheet also doesn't show anything about having a climatizer, but I'm sure no one in Minnesota would buy a car without heat and defrost. My pictures don't show it, but the vacuum advance line snaps into a steel clip at the front of the head. Air cleaners seem to be hard to find for some reason. I even had a hard time finding an original voltage regulator. I finally found mine on ebay, and had to clean it up some even though it was NOS.

[Studebaker Ron]

Tom
What is that black metal cylinder right of your voltage regulator? Not sure if that is one more part that I need or and optional component. My wiring is a mess but I plan on redoing all of it.

Ron

[Studebaker Ron]

Tom
What is that black metal cylinder right of your voltage regulator? Not sure if that is one more part that I need or and optional component. My wiring is a mess but I plan on redoing all of it.

Ron