Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

problem removing harmonic balancer 57 Golden Hawk engine

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Engine: problem removing harmonic balancer 57 Golden Hawk engine

    Hello together

    I pulled out the engine to clean everything and now the next step was to remove the harmonic balancer using a puller. However, it didn't come off, but my puller-tool broke. I can't understand why this thing is holding on so strong.

    How did you remove the harmonic balancer (also known as vibration damper) - where can I find a useful tool to remove it? I need to get this thing off.

    Any help and adive about this removal task is really appreciated.

    Thank you very much

    Regards

    Ruedi
    sigpic

  • #2
    You did remove the large center bolt right?
    Bez Auto Alchemy
    573-318-8948
    http://bezautoalchemy.com


    "Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln

    Comment


    • #3
      Everything, (supercharger pulley, fan and power steering pulleys, and the damper itself should slide right off once completely unbolted.....The crankshaft hub itself requires a good puller....some hubs seem to be tighter than others (there are many things like that! )...but should come off with enough applied pressure.

      Comment


      • #4
        Down to the hub, all should come off by hand. With the hub, whatever you, do not hammer on it. Get a puller that is up to the task. Its also gonna be a challenge to push the hub back on. I use a bolt about 6" long, that screws into the crank, and add washers as it pushes the hub into place.

        Comment


        • #5
          On one core engine with a bit of rust involved:

          1. Clean the crankshaft snout with a wire wheel, douse with PB Blaster or other solvent and let sit overnight.
          2. Use a pro-grade puller, such as Snap-on, OTC, attach it as per instructions, protecting the threads inside the snout, tighten until obvious the puller isn't going to budge the hub.
          3. With a propane torch and a spreader tip, thoroughly warm the hub; not going for red hot here, just too hot to touch.
          4. Swinging in line with the screw and crank, smack the end of the puller screw with a big brass hammer.
          5. Tighten the screw, smack with the hammer, apply heat. Repeat until the hub loosens.

          The above has always worked for me.

          jack vines
          PackardV8

          Comment


          • #6
            Hello together,

            Thank you very much for the useful advice. Then I need to get a right puller for the task to remove the crankshaft hub.

            Yes, getting it back on is going to be a funny game

            Here are some photos of the current situation:

            Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC01794.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	123.9 KB
ID:	1695408Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC01795.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	104.6 KB
ID:	1695409Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC01796.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	137.8 KB
ID:	1695410Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC01798.jpg
Views:	1
Size:	94.3 KB
ID:	1695411

            Have a good week.

            Rudy
            sigpic

            Comment


            • #7
              Swiss -

              Look around, there are "kits" that contain both "pullers" and "installation" tools. In many cases, it's actually the same tool, just reversed.
              While many are a bit more than the garden veriaty puller from an auto parts store, they are well worth their price. "espicially for installing the damper hub or the cam gear.

              Mike

              P.s. - http://www.summitracing.com/search?S...amper%20puller
              The first two listed here are very good tools.

              Comment


              • #8
                Rudy do not pull on the edges of the hub it may bend. there are 2 threaded holes opposite each other for this purpose. use grade 8 bolts and nuts on back side for insurance when pulling, also a little heat will help things along. good luck , Doofus

                Comment


                • #9
                  None of the kits available contain the odd Studebaker adapter, but StudebakerParts.com does sell one made just for Studebakers. It's made to be an installer, but by rearranging some of the pieces and using parts of a puller, it will also remove the hub.
                  Click image for larger version

Name:	crank.hub.tool.jpg
Views:	2
Size:	30.3 KB
ID:	1695413
                  Restorations by Skip Towne

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Swiss-Goldenhawk View Post
                    Hello together,

                    Thank you very much for the useful advice. Then I need to get a right puller for the task to remove the crankshaft hub.

                    Yes, getting it back on is going to be a funny game

                    Here are some photos of the current situation:

                    [ATTACH=CONFIG]41111[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]41112[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]41113[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]41114[/ATTACH]

                    Have a good week.

                    Rudy
                    Looks like the harmonic balancer is sheared off, put the crank bolt back in leave it a few turns from tight. Use two of the bolts directly across from each other through the slotted holes of an heavy duty puller, place the pusher bolt in the center and clamp down on the crank bolt head, rap end of pusher with a dead weight hammer, loosen pusher bolt, loosen crank bolt one turn, re-engage pusher bolt with the top of the crank bolt tighten and rap again. If it's still not moving on the crank end, you may have to slot the flange down to, but not touching the crank, warm with torch and repeat, Your balancer is toast anyway and you'll need a new one anyway. Eventually it will let go of the crank. After engine teardown you'll need to clean up the crank snout so you can push on a new balancer assembly. I'm not 100% sure but it looks like the last person in may have used some kind of sealant between the hub and the crank, that doesn't look like rust. Try a lot of heat, it may crystalize the sealant and make it let go.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Look on the front of your hub, well feel around the front of the hub. On the rubber cushion there will be two rubber "dimples". If you take the rest of the rubber cushion off, you'll find to coarse tapped threads in the hub. Now, what I did when I took my 289 apart, was I bought a couple of long bolts and inserted them in the arms of my Snap on puller. I tightened the bolts up in the threads on the hub, and placed the Snap on puller as I'd place it when I was ready to pull the hub. When the puller was tightened down and the arms were drawn up, the bolts pulled the hub away and off the nose of the crankshaft. It takes longer for me to explain it, than it would for you to do it, but really, to remove the parts from the crankshaft, you use the predrilled and tapped holes in the hubs, timing gear, and I think the steel crank gear to get the press fitted parts loose.

                      Yes, and once it off, make sure that the nose of the crankshaft is clean. The hub needs to be pressed back on, and there's only a few thousandths(if that) between the hub and the crankshaft nose, so everything needs to be clean and polished!
                      1964 Studebaker Commander R2 clone
                      1963 Studebaker Daytona Hardtop with no engine or transmission
                      1950 Studebaker 2R5 w/170 six cylinder and 3spd OD
                      1955 Studebaker Commander Hardtop w/289 and 3spd OD and Megasquirt port fuel injection(among other things)

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Out of all the V-8 engines I have torn apart, which is many, I have never had a problem getting the crankshaft hub off. Looking at your pictures, you shouldn't have a problem. First, clean what is left of the rubber cushion from the front of the hub, then you will find the two 3/8th coarse thread threaded holes for the puller to bolt on. Go to any flaps and pick up a harmonic balancer puller or you can "boorrow" one of theirs. I will be tight, but it should come right off.
                        As far as installation goes, I use an extra long crank bolt that I extended along with a bearing form an old A/C compressor clutch installer. It works perfectly to install the hub. DO NOT HAMMER IT ON! Don't let it intimidate you just because it looks different, you can do it!!
                        Jamie McLeod
                        Hope Mills, NC

                        1963 Lark "Ugly Betty"
                        1958 Commander "Christine"
                        1964 Wagonaire "Louise"
                        1955 Commander Sedan
                        1964 Champ
                        1960 Lark

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          John and I must have been typing at the same time!!
                          Jamie McLeod
                          Hope Mills, NC

                          1963 Lark "Ugly Betty"
                          1958 Commander "Christine"
                          1964 Wagonaire "Louise"
                          1955 Commander Sedan
                          1964 Champ
                          1960 Lark

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Oopsy!

                            Yeah, I rebuilt my 289 last year, which was my first engine rebuild, and a first Studebaker engine rebuild. I had to take the whole lower assembly apart, and put it back together again, which from the nose, included pulling the crankshaft damper, hub, steel timing gear, spacers, the whole shebang. I used a Snap on puller and some 3/8 inch bolts to get the hub and the associated parts loose, and to put it all back on, I kinda cheated. I cut down a pipe about the diameter of the crankshaft to a couple inches long, and used the crankshaft bolt to push the gear and hubs back on the crank. I wouldn't recommend using that procedure too many times in a row, unless you wanna risk stripping the gear in the nose of the crankshaft. To facilitate getting those parts back on much easier, I put the steel gear and the hub under a propane torch. It wasn't anything major, I just made a hanger, stuck the parts on it, and then lit the torch and stuck it in the center of the hub for a few minutes. After that, and with gloves on, I took them over to the crank and slid them on before they cooled, after which I tightened them down with my homemade tool. The heat expands the metal just enough so that they'll slide onto the nose.

                            At the end of it all, be sure to torque the crankshaft bolt to spec according to the shop manual, so you don't have anything wiggle loose when the engine is running.
                            1964 Studebaker Commander R2 clone
                            1963 Studebaker Daytona Hardtop with no engine or transmission
                            1950 Studebaker 2R5 w/170 six cylinder and 3spd OD
                            1955 Studebaker Commander Hardtop w/289 and 3spd OD and Megasquirt port fuel injection(among other things)

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I copied your photo and marked where I think your puller holes are, under the "goo"
                              Attached Files

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X