Fuel System: S.I. replacement fuel pump

[T.J lavallee]

I read in a thread on this site a while ago about the questionable quality of the S.I. replacement fuel pumps just after I ordered one. Well I already received it so I gave it a go. This made in China piece of equipment has less than 100 miles on it and already it no longer draws fuel or pumps it out. Checked all my fuel lines, all are clear, there are no leaks and there's no sign of deposits in the fuel filters. This pump simply gave up! I now join the ranks of those who would not recommend this unit.

[JoeHall]

About a year ago, I replaced one on a guy's 56J, that had gave up the ghost, but it looked to be a few years old. I replaced it with a "cube type", which is simply the best available IMHO.

Are you absolutely sure the line from tank to pump is not clogged? Located at or below tank level? If filter is before the pump, is it possibly clogged?

[T.J lavallee]

About a year ago, I replaced one on a guy's 56J, that had gave up the ghost, but it looked to be a few years old. I replaced it with a "cube type", which is simply the best available IMHO.

Are you absolutely sure the line from tank to pump is not clogged? Located at or below tank level? If filter is before the pump, is it possibly clogged?

The tank line is clear as I blew fuel into tank and pumped it back to engine bay with a hand pump. There is no sediment in the filter before the pump. I'm not clear on what fuel line you are referring to when you say at or below tank level." ? The pump was working yesterday but failed to work this morning. Checked the bowl in the pump on my bench and found no debris. Saw no debris restrictions anywhere and the inlet and outlet ports were clear.

[TWChamp]

I put a new dual diaphram fuel pump on my 1950 Champion just a few days before leaving for South Bend and Michigan this summer. Everything was great until I got to Benton Harbor and couldn't find the good gas. That ethanol crap gas destroyed my pump in two days, so I had to go to O'Rielly's to buy a 6 volt Precision brand (same as Carter) electric fuel pump to get home. A few weeks later I bought two 12 volt electric fuel pumps at a swap meet, one a Precision and one a Holley. I bought them as spares for my Studebakers, hoping they would pump on only 6 volts. I discovered they work great on even less voltage. I put the 12 volt Holley on my 1950 Champion, and use a 4 ohm 50 watt resistor to drop the 6 volts down to 2.7 volts. No pressure regulator is needed. This give good flow and pressure and has been working perfectly for me. These electric pumps are rotory vane pumps with all metal parts, so the crap gas shouldn't eat them up, but I still try to only use the good gas without corn crap in it. These rotary vane electric pumps can lift the gas, so they don't need to be mounted lower than the tank to be gravity fed.

At some point I'd like to rebuild my mechanical pumps with new diaphram material that will stand up to the corn gas. Does anyone know a good source for the material? I see McMaster Carr has a good variety of material, but I'm not sure which one will stand up to the corn gas? Thanks

[JoeHall]

The tank line is clear as I blew fuel into tank and pumped it back to engine bay with a hand pump. There is no sediment in the filter before the pump. I'm not clear on what fuel line you are referring to when you say at or below tank level." ? The pump was working yesterday but failed to work this morning. Checked the bowl in the pump on my bench and found no debris. Saw no debris restrictions anywhere and the inlet and outlet ports were clear.

The good news is, the cube pumps are readily available: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-Fue...ed0689&vxp=mtr

[T.J lavallee]

The good news is, the cube pumps are readily available: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-Fue...ed0689&vxp=mtr

Thanks, Joe. I looked up the ebay site but it says it's not compatible with my 1960 259 V8. Back to the drawing board.

[63 R2 Hawk]

Those pumps are generic and should work on virtually any 12 volt negative ground gas powered vehicle with an engine mounted diaphragm fuel pump. The stupid "nanny" fit application in ebay is pretty brainless. You can get one of those pumps at your local Auto Zombie or other FLAPS. Mount it as close to the tank as you can and you will be fine. You'll need to do some very basic plumbing and wiring, no big deal.

[StudeRich]

I would never fool with an Electric Fuel Pump in the first place, the Cars were built with a mechanical, high quality Carter Pump that worked well for around 20 years for a very many of us, I see no reason not to go with proven success.

The latest, improved version Airtex design pumps sold as "Carter" would be a much better option if you do not have an Original Carter to rebuild.

[TWChamp]

I would never fool with an Electric Fuel Pump in the first place, the Cars were built with a mechanical, high quality Carter Pump that worked well for around 20 years for a very many of us, I see no reason not to go with proven success.

The latest, improved version Airtex design pumps sold as "Carter" would be a much better option if you do not have an Original Carter to rebuild.

I have no experience with Airtex, but heard or read of some people giving Airtex a thumbs down. I'm all for it as long as it stands up to the corn crap gas. I do like to keep my Studebakers as original as possible.

BTW, I'm new to this site, and can someone tell me how to add a picture below my name? Thanks, Tom

[Bud]

I've had problems with both Airtex and Carter new stock fuel pumps. I've experienced noise, oil leaks and even had one that had the arm split at the pin hole with the new pumps. I've been rebuilding the original Carter pumps with ethanol resistant parts and haven't had a problem. Bud

[unclemiltie]

I put a new dual diaphram fuel pump on my 1950 Champion just a few days before leaving for South Bend and Michigan this summer. Everything was great until I got to Benton Harbor and couldn't find the good gas. That ethanol crap gas destroyed my pump in two days, so I had to go to O'Rielly's to buy a 6 volt Precision brand (same as Carter) electric fuel pump to get home. A few weeks later I bought two 12 volt electric fuel pumps at a swap meet, one a Precision and one a Holley. I bought them as spares for my Studebakers, hoping they would pump on only 6 volts. I discovered they work great on even less voltage. I put the 12 volt Holley on my 1950 Champion, and use a 4 ohm 50 watt resistor to drop the 6 volts down to 2.7 volts. No pressure regulator is needed. This give good flow and pressure and has been working perfectly for me. These electric pumps are rotory vane pumps with all metal parts, so the crap gas shouldn't eat them up, but I still try to only use the good gas without corn crap in it. These rotary vane electric pumps can lift the gas, so they don't need to be mounted lower than the tank to be gravity fed.

At some point I'd like to rebuild my mechanical pumps with new diaphram material that will stand up to the corn gas. Does anyone know a good source for the material? I see McMaster Carr has a good variety of material, but I'm not sure which one will stand up to the corn gas? Thanks

I bought kits for the pumps in 50 commanders which are dual action from Dave Thibault as they have gaskets in them which handle the corn gas, I think other vendors also carry them, Dave normally has them with him at swap meets

[T.J lavallee]

I've had problems with both Airtex and Carter new stock fuel pumps. I've experienced noise, oil leaks and even had one that had the arm split at the pin hole with the new pumps. I've been rebuilding the original Carter pumps with ethanol resistant parts and haven't had a problem. Bud

Bud, this sounds promising. Where can I purchase these ethanol resistant rebuild parts? Another member was also asking where to get them in a previous thread. Thanks....T.J.

[ivorydan]

Did you have your gas tank cleaned out? Dan

[T.J lavallee]

Did you have your gas tank cleaned out? Dan

Yes, Dan, I cleaned the tank when I first acquired the car in June of this year. It was flushed clear after soaking in acetone and phosphoric acid and left to dry in the very hot Arizona sun for two days. As I stated in previous threads there is no sign of any foreign particles in the fuel pump or in any of the gas filters. I have one before the pump and one before the carb for good measure. Unless the cam that drives the pump lever is worn out I would guess it's the fuel pump. Thanks Dan for your input, though...T.J.

[brngarage]

T.J. try Then and Now Automotive (http://then-now-auto.com/) for ethanol resistant fuel pump kits.