AFB Carb on Old style Intake

[valleyguy]

Ok- the new 500CFM Edelbrock carb works on my 289 but the old style
manifold has not been modified. (but...I have not driven it on
the street yet); I'd like to find an AFB style
manifold to install but have'nt done so yet. What are
the implications of using the new carb/old intake together?
(performance etc.)
Tks,

[studelover]

If you are refering to the 1403 edelbrock carb(500) if you are using the stock 4bbl intake, the accelerator arm has a hole on the bottom that needs to be cut off or trimed, be sure to screw the idle screw in to the point you do not cut into it. The accelerator linkage can be connected to the small hole provided you open up the hole a little. I just got my carb and bought a spacer from the speed shop. I hope I can clear the manifold.I won't know until I take everything over next week. good luck[]

Studebakers forever!

[JDP]

If you mean WCFB for old, it'll take some machining to make it work.

JDP/Maryland
64 R2 GT cost to date
$60,984.29
63 R2 SuperHawk
63 Lark 2 door
54 Starlight
52 Starliner
51 Commander
39 Coupe express
39 Coupe express (rod)

[valleyguy]

JD, I asssume by machining you mean grinding/trimming the manifold ports to match up with the newer carb? I already have the linkage and height problems solved. As I said the motor runs, but not that great. If I do find a AFB manifold, will that solve all the
above problems?
tks

[JDP]

Yes, lots of grinding with the WCFB, not needed with the AFB.

JDP/Maryland
64 R2 GT cost to date
$60,984.29
63 R2 SuperHawk
63 Lark 2 door
54 Starlight
52 Starliner
51 Commander
39 Coupe express
39 Coupe express (rod)

[sbca96]

I thought the 500 cfm had all 4 bores the same size, which as the same
as the WCFB? I bored my WCFB for a 650 cfm with a grinding bit and a
drill some years ago. It took a while, let the drill cool off. I would
suggest a dremel after using one in recent years.

Dont cut off that lower arm from the linkage if you think you might do
a TH700R4 or TH2004R swap some day ... you will NEED it. Its best to
buy a fiber/heat disipating spacer to raise the carb to clear. Figure
it should be about 1/2 inch thick. Then you can use it "as-is".

Tom

'63 Avanti, zinc plated drilled & slotted 03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, soon: TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves, 'R3' 276 cam, Edelbrock AFB Carb, GM HEI distributor, 8.8mm plug wires

[Mike Van Veghten]

Guy -

If I read your question right..the "working" difference between the WCFB manifold and the AFB manifold will be next to nothing. The runner size and basic shape is pretty much the same. The plenum area is a little different (obviously the bolt pattern!)...that's about it.
Other than you shouldn't require a spacer anymore unless you're keeping the lower part of the arm as Tom states.

If you can find an AFB manifold cheap enough...go for it, otherwise...stick with what you have.

Mike