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  • Interior: Dashboard

    Hello, I have one more question - how best to remove the dashboard .. it just a trick? My car is Cruiser 1963. I would like to fix a broken clock, etc. And one question - one can buy the original material, such as seat covers on?
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  • #2
    If it's just a broken clock I wouldn't remove the entire dash for it. The clock is held in position by 2 nuts that wedge it in place with a bracket. Remove the 2 nuts & the clock will come out the front where you can then remove the wire & lamp sockets easily.

    As far as the dash cover, the 63's are hard to come by. 64's are easier but not that much. You never know you may hit pay dirt.
    59 Lark wagon, now V-8, H.D. auto!
    60 Lark convertible V-8 auto
    61 Champ 1/2 ton 4 speed
    62 Champ 3/4 ton 5 speed o/drive
    62 Champ 3/4 ton auto
    62 Daytona convertible V-8 4 speed & 62 Cruiser, auto.
    63 G.T. Hawk R-2,4 speed
    63 Avanti (2) R-1 auto
    64 Zip Van
    66 Daytona Sport Sedan(327)V-8 4 speed
    66 Cruiser V-8 auto

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Warren Webb View Post
      If it's just a broken clock I wouldn't remove the entire dash for it. The clock is held in position by 2 nuts that wedge it in place with a bracket. Remove the 2 nuts & the clock will come out the front where you can then remove the wire & lamp sockets easily.

      As far as the dash cover, the 63's are hard to come by. 64's are easier but not that much. You never know you may hit pay dirt.
      Unfortunately, I plan to replace all electrical cables, so removing equally unavoidable. If there's any procedure, I would be very grateful ..
      Tom

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      • #4
        Czech Republic? I took the train from Vienna through Prague to Berlin. I enjoyed Prague, but would like to see more of the country next time. The Studebaker shop manual gives good instructions on removing the dash, but I can see where you might not have access to one. Obviously, you have to disconnect wires, the oil pressure line, the speedometer cable, the cables that connect the heater/defroster slider on the dash to the flapper valve on the heat distribution duct under the dash, the water temperature slider on the dash from the control valve by the heater fan motor, the parking brake pull handle from the bottom of the dash, the steering column from the bottom of the dash, the fresh air vent control from the bottom of the dash on the left side of the steering column and the overdrive handle under the dash to the left of the steering column (if the car has overdrive). You will probably want to remove the fiberglass heat distribution duct that extends from the heater fan motor over to the center of the car and the two defroster hoses that connect to it. There are 4 (I think) nuts to remove on the underside where the dash meet the windshield. There are 2 bolts to remove at each end of the dash. Unless I have missed anything, you should be able to remove the dash at this point. You may have to remove the metal trim on the inside of each window post that butt against the dash. I can't remember and I am typing this from memory. As mentioned above, the center part of the dash that holds the instruments does not need to be removed separately. It comes out with the dash. Actually, it is pretty easy to just poke around under the dash and locate all the attachment points. The only ones hard to see are the 4 nuts up by the underside of the windshield that hold the front of the dash down. That's a great car. Good luck with your repair work.

        Dale

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        • #5
          The wire harness on your car not only includes all the dashboard components but goes to all the underhood wiring too. There isn't a connector at the firewall as found on some other cars. In that case removing the entire dash is best. Dale has outlined most of the things you'll have to do except possibly removing the fiberglass heater distribution duct. Take pictures before you remove anything. Mark the wires at the ends in case there is any questions on reassembly.

          I add the inside windshield "garnish" moldings for access to the screws that hold the top of the dash to the cowl. To make things a bit easier I would remove the retainers for the steering column seal (at the firewall), the steering column mount at the base of the dash & 2 of the bolts holding the steering gearbox. This will allow the steering column to pivot down & give you a little more room to maneuver the dash out. Here is the wiring diagram: https://www.studebakerparts.com/stud...-lark-wire.jpg

          Any questions you may have come on over here to the forum & ask. We're all happy to help!
          59 Lark wagon, now V-8, H.D. auto!
          60 Lark convertible V-8 auto
          61 Champ 1/2 ton 4 speed
          62 Champ 3/4 ton 5 speed o/drive
          62 Champ 3/4 ton auto
          62 Daytona convertible V-8 4 speed & 62 Cruiser, auto.
          63 G.T. Hawk R-2,4 speed
          63 Avanti (2) R-1 auto
          64 Zip Van
          66 Daytona Sport Sedan(327)V-8 4 speed
          66 Cruiser V-8 auto

          Comment

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