Electrical: Electrical Voodoo

[Surfpilot]

Been having some electrical issues with the '63 Lark lately. It's the 6 cyl. and has been converted to a 12v system. The problem started with what I thought was a dead battery (got nothing with the ignition, no lights, no radio, etc). Had the battery charged and tested...good battery. Checked the alternator...also good. On a hunch, I replaced the voltage regulator, and bingo, problem solved! At least I thought.

She started and ran great for the next few weeks, accept for one thing: the ammeter showed an excessive rate of charge while driving. This week, I go to start it up, and I get the same thing as before: nothing. No ignition, no electrical. I checked the battery with my multimeter and it's got 11v. Took it to be tested again just to be sure, and it's a good battery. Here's the weird thing: it will start right up with a jump from another vehicle.

This is a real head scratcher for me. How can a good battery not start the vehicle, but a jump start will? I'm no good with electrical. Please, any help would be appreciated. I've checked the grounds and they appear to be clean and intact. And as for the ammeter showing charge, my only conclusion is that I have an open wire charging the frame somewhere?

-Nate

[Bud]

It sounds like you have a problem with the battery cables or connections to the cables and the battery. Be sure that all connections between the battery and starter solenoid and to the 12 gauge red wire that is the main feed wire to the car which is connected to the battery cable terminal on the solenoid are clean and tight. Also check the connections on the back of the ammeter, ignition switch and head light switch for tightness and be sure that they are clean too. Check the ground strap connection between the front of the engine and the frame as sometimes they have been removed or aren't making a good connection. I like to add an extra ground wire between the engine block and the firewall to be sure that I have a good body ground connection. Bud

[Bob Andrews]

Just as a side note, all Larks come from the factory with the 12v system. So, yours has not been converted.

[rstrasser]

11 Volts is not a fully charged battery. A fully charged battery should be around 13 volts DC.
A high rate of charge indicates the battery is receiving more current then the car is using. Could be due to a defective regulator or something else. The charging system would have to be tested while the car was running.
If the high reading was due to a short; the short would have to be between the meter and the battery. Not on the load side of the meter.
As others have said first check all connections.
Ron

[StudeRich]

Also the high rate of charge could simply be because at 11 Volts, the Battery NEEDS charging!
It is short about 2.6 Volts!!

My bet is on the connection at the Main Power Feed (Red) Wire at the Solenoid as Bud said.

As Bob said all Studebakers have been 12 volts since 1956 so maybe the Car has been "REWIRED" not converted. Which if done wrong, could be a big problem.

[Surfpilot]

Thanks guys. I'll dig into this this weekend and report back. I always assumed it was converted to 12v because I have a 6v starter in there (which makes for nice fast starts, but chews bendix drives). Grandpa bought the car new and, sadly I wasn't able to get a complete history on it before he passed.

[StudeRich]

OK, you need to get that Course Toothed 6 Volt Bendix Drive out of there!

Your Flywheel if stock, has the FINE toothed Starter Ring Gear on it for the 12 Volt Starter with a Fine Toothed Bendix Drive.

Check your Ring Gear first though, to make sure he did not change it to the Course tooth 6 Volt Type.

Also the Starter Bolts MUST be the Original, special Factory long shouldered, upper end type to align the Starter properly. A fully Threaded Bolt does not work.

[55 56 PREZ 4D]

When you are checking the connections, look closely at the wiring.
The terminals can be good but the wiring INSIDE THE WIRE INSULATION can be corroded.
Just glancing at the wiring will fool you. Any corrosion seen at the end of the insulation can be a real problem farther up inside the wire.

[kurtruk]

Did you polarize your charging system AFTER replacing the voltage regulator?

(Or maybe that isn't necessary with an alternator, don't know. Someone else please ring in on this. I'm only into working on generator equipped vehicles.)

[TrickyRick]

Only Generators need to be polarized, this is for the self energizing type.
Self exciting means it is "push started" and does not require an outside power source to start.
Most or all alternators require a power source to energize the fields.

Polarizing establishes a (and orients) residual magnetic field in the pole pieces.
This is necessary when a generator has been disassembled and parts shuffled or has sat for years and the residual magnetism has decayed.
By momentarily applying 12v to the A term (which is where the field coils get their power) you jump start the gen and establish the direction of current flow in the fields.

[altair]

With the high rate at the amp gauge and dead battery most probably indicates an open ground. Check the rate of charge at the battery with engine running should be 14 + volts. If nothing at the batt and the gauge is reading a high +, the alternator is probably not grounding. The mounts should be removed and all the rust removed to assure electrical continuity. Check all the connections at the ignition switch with a flash light and look for any signs of rust. This would indicate a loose connection and over heating at the terminal. If any terminals are rusty they should be removed cleaned and replaced with new ss nuts.