Cool/Heat: Cooling problem - Cruiser 1963

[bonifacdruhy]

Hi, I have a problem with cooling my Cruiser. If the car in the summer is about 5 minutes at idle - column etc., will skyrocket temperature. Is there any solution? Better fan, fan shroud?
Thanks for any advice

[rockne10]

Shouldn't be an issue with the fan or shroud. I never had a cooling problem with my '63 Cruiser. Could be one or a combination of other issues. Engine block quite probably is packed with crud, have your radiator flow tested, check the thermostat operation and condition of water pump impeller.

[BStephens]

Also make sure that somebody didn't put a 185 thermostat in her. Mine was having a similar issue and I replaced the 185 with a 160.

[rodnutrandy]

On my M series truck with a 350 SBC ( .030 over ) , I found these answers 1. Make sure all air has to go through the radiator and can't go around it. 2.Have a shroud that pulls air thru. 3. Good radiator , with me it took 2 attempts 1st a 3 row brass radiator ,2nd attempt a 2 Row 1 inch tube Aluminum radiator . I also installed a high flow water pump . My M now runs in 85 degree weather at 177 degrees with a 180 Stat . In town in traffic ,may go to 190 , but returns to 177 as soon as airflow returns . Can now run my A/C when ever I want. realize you are running stock, but some of this is applys to all .

[bonifacdruhy]

Shouldn't be an issue with the fan or shroud. I never had a cooling problem with my '63 Cruiser. Could be one or a combination of other issues. Engine block quite probably is packed with crud, have your radiator flow tested, check the thermostat operation and condition of water pump impeller.

Thanks. Cooling system I completely purged. I'll try to buy another new thermostat - 160. It will still check the water pump.
Unfortunately, it is here in the Czech Republic just cold - true test will come in the summer.
Tom

[Skip Lackie]

Tom-
There have been several lengthy discussions in the past about how just flushing the cooling system isn't good enough. Stude V8s had/have a bad habit of accumulated rust and sediment in the water passages at the back of the block. The solution is to remove the two rearmost "freeze plugs" at the rear sides of the block and use a coat hanger, power washer, etc to get all that muck out of there. A very messy, but fairly simple job that is best done on a warm day with a cold shower nearby.

[sals54]

[bonifacdruhy]

Tom-
There have been several lengthy discussions in the past about how just flushing the cooling system isn't good enough. Stude V8s had/have a bad habit of accumulated rust and sediment in the water passages at the back of the block. The solution is to remove the two rearmost "freeze plugs" at the rear sides of the block and use a coat hanger, power washer, etc to get all that muck out of there. A very messy, but fairly simple job that is best done on a warm day with a cold shower nearby.

Thanks, do not link to this discussion? Or picture where is "freeze plugs"?

[Skip Lackie]

Thanks, do not link to this discussion? Or picture where is "freeze plugs"?

Some of us old-timers call them freeze plugs because allegedly, freezing coolant would cause them to pop out and prevent the block from cracking. The correct term is core plug, and they are round, 1-3/16" in diameter, three per side on a V8 block. They were used to remove casting sand from the block casting process. Removing them allows access to the lower back of the cooling system. Different replacement styles are available in the US, including a rubber one that can be expanded to fit, made by Dorman.

[TrickyRick]

Before you go to all that dealing with the filth, Check thermostat, also check that thermostat bypass flow is present.
Coolant must circulate in the motor when the thermostat is closed so the thermostat can see the temp of the coolant and not wait until warm coolant percolates to it.
Not knowing your model, some motors use the heater circuit to perform this feature, some motors have a bypass passage that is controlled by a second disc on the bottom of the t-stat.

Many guys will block off a leaking heater with plugs or a hose loop that is kinked and that will block bypass flow.

[altair]

core plugs

Some of us old-timers call them freeze plugs because allegedly, freezing coolant would cause them to pop out and prevent the block from cracking. The correct term is core plug, and they are round, 1-3/16" in diameter, three per side on a V8 block. They were used to remove casting sand from the block casting process. Removing them allows access to the lower back of the cooling system. Different replacement styles are available in the US, including a rubber one that can be expanded to fit, made by Dorman.

The rearmost are threaded plugs 3/8 pipe they can be removed and flushed