Pulling motor!! help

[John Ratliff]

Never done this before, but Monday morn I will start. I have the hood off of my '56 Power Hawk, with FOM trans. I will pull the radiator and have it checked. What should I look out for and do first? Any and all advise welcome.
I know many of you have done this many times and must have tricks to tell.
Thanks to all.
Don't have digital camera but will try to take some pictures as I go for later.

John Ratliff

[DEEPNHOCK]

When you pull the driveshaft, put double freezer bags over the tailshaft housing with a couple of heavy rubber bands.

quote:Originally posted by John Ratliff

Never done this before, but Monday morn I will start. I have the hood off of my '56 Power Hawk, with FOM trans. I will pull the radiator and have it checked. What should I look out for and do first? Any and all advise welcome.
I know many of you have done this many times and must have tricks to tell.
Thanks to all.
Don't have digital camera but will try to take some pictures as I go for later.

John Ratliff

[studelover]

I wish you good luck on your endevor, get yourself some plastic containers and keep all bolts, label them. Take your time and take nothing for granted. Your wire harness is your friend as you disconnect stuff tie the harness back, don't snatch any wires from there sources.TAKE PIC"S OF EVERTHING! good luck!

Studebakers forever!

[GTtim]

I take out the frame cross member that supports the rear engine mounts, put a spare yoke in the back of the trans so all the fluid won't run out, and take care to use engine hoist equipment that will allow you to put an extreme upward angle on the engine-trans to get it over the cross bar where the radiator is. Hope this helps.

Tim K.
'64 R2 GT Hawk

[bob40]

This may sound crazy but remember who is offering this hint but several times I have removed the front wheels and tires and lowered the front end of the car to the floor.Changes the lift and separate angle and the engine hoist doesnt have to lift that lump of iron as high to clear the support.

[KGlowacky]

Take some before pictures, they will come in handy on any questions you may have. Also the trans will leak out the tailshaft forever. Make sure you have a drain pan.

[showbizkid]

Yes, a balancing-beam for the lift is a mighty handy thing to have. Some other stuff I learned:

* Be sure you pull out the distributor before you start lifting, or you'll mash it against the firewall.
* Don't forget to disconnect the ground wire at the right front engine mount.
* There are shims between the trans x-member and the body. They might be rubber, but are probably metal. They usually stick to the body, only to fall off later and scare the pee out of you. Remove them and remember which thickness goes on which side.
* Don't be tempted to lift by attaching the chains to the carburetor studs. Pull the intake manifold and use the manifold bolts instead.

Good luck!


[img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

Clark in San Diego
'63 F2/Lark Standard

http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

https://www.studebakersandiego.com

[JDP]

Again, not to be a contrary, I never drop the X member, nor do I use the adjustable beam. I take it out and install nose high with a helper under the car to lift the tail shaft over the X member once the engine is back and lowered a bit. The chain allows the engine to pivot at will. The R2 GT had the x member out, and it took me a extra hour over my normal install. just another personal preference issue, do what makes you happy.

JDP/Maryland
64 R2 GT cost to date
$60,984.29
63 R2 SuperHawk
63 Lark 2 door
54 Starlight
52 Starliner
51 Commander
39 Coupe express
39 Coupe express (rod)

[jackb]

..I snapped the ground strap on my recent engine/tranny removal...I got the assy out without removing the distributor cap, but removed it and cracked the rotor on install. If you remove the X-member, you would do yourself a favor by replacing the (8)1-inch 3/8th's bolts that connect member to frame rails with 1-3/4 or 2 inch replacements.....its a bugger to get your fingers into those small holes.....Also, when you start the x-member, you need to raise the tranny tail some to start the outer-most nuts & bolts first......

[rdmaxon]

I'm going to restate what has already been mentioned,take pictures. Go and get a reasonably priced digital camera,it will set up for "point and shoot" and go from there. Richard

[John Ratliff]

Hey! I got the engine out today, now do I seperate the FOM trans at the torque converter from the engine. Or do I have to seperate the trans from the converter, and then take the coverter off the engine.
I do not see any dowel pin sticking out from the bell housing as shown in the parts book.
Had a hell of a time getting the the cross member out.











John Ratliff

[JDP]

Take the four big bolts out of the trans and remove it, then the bell housing and converter. The pins don't stick out of the bell housing, the just fit in it. BTW, now you know why I never drop the x member, wait until you try and get it back in.

JDP/Maryland
64 R2 GT cost to date
$60,984.29
63 R2 SuperHawk
63 Lark 2 door
54 Starlight
52 Starliner
51 Commander
39 Coupe express
39 Coupe express (rod)

[showbizkid]

JDP, why is it a booger to get the x-member back in? Is it better to reinstall it before sliding the engine/trans in?


[img=left]http://members.cox.net/clarknovak/lark.gif[/img=left]

Clark in San Diego
'63 F2/Lark Standard

http://studeblogger.blogspot.com

https://www.studebakersandiego.com

[mapman]

It's tough to get the nuts back on the 8 short bolts on the frame. I did mine last spring but repaired the cross member while it was out. I had to split several of the nuts just to get it out. I used longer bolts to get it aligned first when I put it back in.
Rob

[JDP]

It's a ***** to get the trans mount and X member bolts lined up at the same time, especially with a AT. Of course I have have very little experience with dropping that member, only have done it when it was off the car when I got it.

JDP/Maryland
64 R2 GT cost to date
$60,984.29
63 R2 SuperHawk
63 Lark 2 door
54 Starlight
52 Starliner
51 Commander
39 Coupe express
39 Coupe express (rod)