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  • Plastic Spear

    i know these spears should be clear , so my question is has anyone ever tried to clean/polish one if so what n how did you do it ???

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  • #2
    Maybe one of those headlight polishing kits?

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    • #3
      i'd probably go with "wet" sandpaper. start lightly with 400 grit (more pressure if needed). then go to 1000 grit and finish with 2000 grit. after that, some polishing compound and wax to protect it.

      hope this helps!
      Kerry. SDC Member #A012596W. ENCSDC member.

      '51 Champion Business Coupe - (Tom's Car). Purchased 11/2012.

      '40 Champion. sold 10/11. '63 Avanti R-1384. sold 12/10.

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      • #4
        i did have a go with some toothpaste with no luck , I'm thinking the sand paper route is going to be the way to go

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        • #5
          How about a cloth wheel and a paste like they do with stainless?

          Avoid heat.

          Dean.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by dean pearson View Post
            How about a cloth wheel and a paste like they do with stainless?

            Avoid heat.

            Dean.
            I'm thinking i'll not use a machine as I'm sure to go too mad id end up melting it

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            • #7
              I would do it by hand for sure, that plastic in those is brittle and will melt if put on a buffer I do believe. You might try a good car paste wax, amazing what it can do for plastic parts.
              Milt

              1947 Champion (owned since 1967)
              1961 Hawk 4-speed
              1967 Avanti
              1961 Lark 2 door
              1988 Avanti Convertible

              Member of SDC since 1973

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              • #8
                Better yet it would be nice to use a higher grade plastic in the repops. My 63 has an original on one side & a repro on the other. The original is still clear after over 52 years since it came off the line on 11/7/62. The repro went brown in months.
                59 Lark wagon, now V-8, H.D. auto!
                60 Lark convertible V-8 auto
                61 Champ 1/2 ton 4 speed
                62 Champ 3/4 ton 5 speed o/drive
                62 Champ 3/4 ton auto
                62 Daytona convertible V-8 4 speed & 62 Cruiser, auto.
                63 G.T. Hawk R-2,4 speed
                63 Avanti (2) R-1 auto
                64 Zip Van
                66 Daytona Sport Sedan(327)V-8 4 speed
                66 Cruiser V-8 auto

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Warren Webb View Post
                  Better yet it would be nice to use a higher grade plastic in the repops. My 63 has an original on one side & a repro on the other. The original is still clear after over 52 years since it came off the line on 11/7/62. The repro went brown in months.
                  I've been told that about the repos

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                  • #10
                    1950 Commander. Why not just buy a reproduction? I don't care how much cleaning, shining, polishing you do; IT WON'T COME BACK, YOU WILL SPEND MUCH TIME AND YOU WILL NEVER BE SATISFIED! IMHO!
                    Or, make a mold and produce a new one that doesn't discolor.
                    Brad Johnson,
                    SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
                    Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
                    '33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight. '53 Commander Starlight
                    '56 Sky Hawk in process

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                    • #11
                      What Brad said.. It's discolored throughout, not just on the surface.

                      DO NOT hit it with a buffing wheel! That old plastic will melt in about 2 seconds.

                      I once tried to very lightly buff the plastic horn button for the '38 Commander.

                      Luckily I was able to find an NOS one.
                      Last edited by mbstude; 11-01-2014, 06:18 PM.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by mbstude View Post
                        What Brad said.. It's discolored throughout, not just on the surface.

                        DO NOT hit it with a buffing wheel! That old plastic will melt in about 2 seconds.

                        I once tried to very lightly buff the plastic horn button for the '38 Commander.


                        Luckily I was able to find an NOS one.
                        As Brad says , I don't want to go through the expensive of buying one shipping it to england to be in the same position as I am now or even worse , (spose I could mold an orange one )

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by mbstude View Post
                          DO NOT hit it with a buffing wheel! That old plastic will melt in about 2 seconds.
                          With slight deference, Matt; there is a wheel and compound at proper rpm specifically for plastics, but you are right! Wheels and compounds used for metals, chrome, stainless, etc. will summarily dispatch our tail light lenses and horn buttons to the landfill.
                          For Sean's intent and purpose, any used original plastic is going to be crazed throughout. This particular piece was straight out in the weather. If he could find an ultimately rare NOS that has been packaged out of the light...well...that's not realistically going to happen, is it?
                          Who made the last batch of repos? Are more forthcoming? Will the clarity age well?
                          Last edited by rockne10; 11-02-2014, 01:17 AM.
                          Brad Johnson,
                          SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
                          Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
                          '33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight. '53 Commander Starlight
                          '56 Sky Hawk in process

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by rockne10 View Post
                            With slight deference, Matt; there is a wheel and compound at proper rpm specifically for plastics
                            I figured as much.. I just wouldn't want anyone to think that any old buffing wheel would suffice. (Like I did!) I learned my lesson the hard way.

                            That spear looks like a pretty simple part. I'd be really tempted to make a rubber mold and cast one in acrylic.

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                            • #15
                              try scuffing it down with steel wool or Scotchbrite then spraying Rattle can clearcoat on it. That's worked for me a few times.
                              Neil Thornton

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