Body / Glass: 1960 Lark Convertible Top Questions

[CJMiller]

I'm probably going to need to look for a new top frame assembly for my 1960 Lark (even my welded repairs have welded repairs at this point), but I see that the 1960 frame has some differences, the most significant one seems to be the front side rails. The other years seem to be all the same.

1. Am I stuck looking for a 1960 top, or will a later top fit as long as I'm replacing the entire frame?

2. Anyone have a 1960 frame they would part with?* (Just the metal frame, my pump and hydraulics are fine)

3. The book says to adjust the frame (without any rubbers or rubber holders attached) so there is a uniform 9/16th's inch gap between the frame and the top of the windows the entire length. The factory just put that in there for laughs, right? I can get close to that on the front window with full adjustment at the frame pivot point, but there's no way that's going to happen at the rear windows--there I'm doing good to get the window to even kiss the rubber, forget about a uniform 9/16th's gap. It's obvious that they tweeked the frame to make their top fit nice and tight, so I'm never going to get it adjusted properly without a new top, but even with a new top is that gap realistic?

4. My pump motor is protected by a 30amp fuse that keeps blowing because my twisted old top is making it work so hard. I can't find it on any schematic. Does 30 amp sound right?

Thanks

Jay

(*I know shipping will be a pain, but maybe you could just drop it at the nearest UPS Store and I'll pay them to pack and ship it?)

[(S)]

Not sure what years will interchange because the book shows most of the frame fitting 1960 -64 which may be good news. Lots of other parts are kind of broken down 1960-61 and then 62-3 and then 64 only.

SI used to have some major parts of the frame.

I have a 61 or 62, the whole frame and some extras I do not need.

One needs to take a GOOD look at the parts book to see what fits what. There are many parts involved as you know.

[rkapteyn]

I have a complete top from a 1960 somewhere in my warehouse.
I would want $400.00 for it.
If you want it I will start looking.
Robert Kapteyn

[CJMiller]

Thanks for the information so far. Bob, we'll talk . . .

Here's where I'm at (there's a question coming), it's obvious that whoever installed the fabric top adjusted the frame to make the top nice and tight, and in the process bent and twisted as required without any attempt to make it fit the windows, or even operate smoothly. Now years later, the fabric has shrunk, and all the problems are 10X worse because now the fabric is so tight it's keeping the frame from moving through its cycle smoothly. The intermediate bows can't make the shift as the top goes down because the fabric is pressing too tightly against them.

It looks like there's a whole new top in my future.

Here's the question. When I first got the car I spent hours reading every post I could find about 1960 Larks on this forum. I swear that there is a thread about how 1960 tops are different, and as a result the generic kits don't fit right. Trouble is, I can't find that thread again no matter how hard I search.

So, is there anyone here who has installed a 60 top, and if so, can you tell me what the difference(s) are? Also, if anyone has purchased a top kit for a 1960 and can vouch for a particular supplier's kit fitting correctly, I would appreciate hearing about it.

Thanks

Jay

[rkapteyn]

Jay
I am looking for the top that I mentioned in post #3.
Hopefully my son will help me find it.
Robert Kapteyn

[pinehurstbob]

I had my top installed by a professional. Purchased it on line from 1A Auto in the summer of 2009. Lots of color choice and good people to deal with. Would deal with them again.

Bob
60 Lark Convert & 64 Daytona

[CJMiller]

There are some old posts about dealing with shrunken convertible tops, so I'll post this for future reference. (sorry, no photos)

My vinyl top had shrunk to the point where it was no longer covering the frame above the windows, the entire side frame was visible. I just figured a new top was in my future.

Since I figured I had nothing to lose, I've spent the last three days parking the Lark in the sun all day (95 degree heat), and as soon as the top gets good and hot I've pulled on the sides and then used clamps and blocks of wood to hold the top into a stretched position applying equal pressure to both sides. I went slow and readjusted the clamps about every 3 hours.

The results have been amazing. The top now completely covers the side rails. The first night it shrank back about 25%, the second night about 10%, and this morning it's hardly moved. It might be false confidence, but I think that if I keep at it the rest of the week the results will be more or less permanent, and I can't see any signs that I'm causing problems at the seams, distorting the frame, or doing anything that will cause the top to tear. I probably still need a new top, but I think this has bought me several more months, maybe more, with the one that's on there.

[ddub]

Curious to know what you did about the frame. Did you end up replacing it or were you able to make it work?

[CJMiller]

Curious to know what you did about the frame. Did you end up replacing it or were you able to make it work?

I had to replace both sides from front to back. The only original pieces are the three bows and the header. The header will get replaced when I do the new top.


Frankly, I've spent twice as much time screwing around with the top as I have everything else on the car. I'm still not completely happy with it, but at least it goes up and down, and the windows seal reasonably well. It's been a real learning experience, especially trying to do it with the existing top in place, but I finally have the geometry figured out, and I understand what all the different frame and window adjustments do and what order to do them in.