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Trans Swap 5 or 6 Speed in a C-Body

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  • Transmission / Overdrive: Trans Swap 5 or 6 Speed in a C-Body

    I am building a Stude V8 with the "GM" pattern bell housing. It is actually a "Quick-time" SFI rated scatter shield so I am committed to the GM pattern. I was originally planning on staying with the Borg Warner T10 and may still but I want to explore my options out there. I am also not savvy with the proper terms for the 5 and 6 speeds that can be adapted. If there are other previous posts please refer me to them. If there is new enlightenment out there share that too. The entire floor of the car is to be replaced so clearance should be no issue but I would prefer that it fit within the stock floor confines.

    Jon Kammer

  • #2
    I know that the T5 has been used in Hawks. The Camaro version should bolt up to your Chevy bell housing. Good info on here http://www.studebaker-info.org/rjtechx4.html#5sp
    "In the heart of Arkansas."
    Searcy, Arkansas
    1952 Commander 2 door. Really fine 259.
    1952 2R pickup

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    • #3
      Originally posted by 52-fan View Post
      I know that the T5 has been used in Hawks. The Camaro version should bolt up to your Chevy bell housing. Good info on here http://www.studebaker-info.org/rjtechx4.html#5sp
      Yes, the T5 has been used in Hawks. However, there are at least fifty varieties of T5. Do your homework and choose carefully. Even though your QuickTime bell is "Chevy pattern" there were different Chevy T5s with different input shaft spline count and length.

      No, not all Camaro/Firebird T5s are the same. IIRC, there were 4-cyl, V6 and V8 versions over the years.

      Maybe, consider using a hydraulic throwout bearing. I've found those to be worth the engineering effort.

      jack vines
      PackardV8

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      • #4
        Jon

        Here is a comparison of the T10, T5 and T56 dimensions. https://summitracing.custhelp.com/ap...tail/a_id/2505

        There is a T56 (6-speed) setting in my Avanti (74). Width should not be a problem except the reverse lock out solenoid may need to be accounted for. The issue is length. The T56 is almost as long as the 700R4 auto so be sure you have length there. Not a problem other than I built a new rear frame mount for it.

        I'd use a hydraulic setup as that's what the T5 and T56 are set up to use. The OEM F-body T56 hydraulics are a self-contained set up that works well. I have a couple of posts on the T56 install w/clutch and suspended pedal. I can post the reference if necessary. Junior (forum member) has a post on a T5 w/hydraulic clutch and thru-floor pedals.

        IIRC, the T5 and early T56 use a level actuated hydraulic clutch while the later LS type T56's use a hydraulic throwout bearing as Jack suggests. The aftermarket will support the Hydraulic TO bearing on all of them.

        One last thing to check as you have the bell housing is input shaft length of the tranny. The F-body T56's for the LT engines may be a little short. Just a word of caution to add to what Jack said about 8/6/4 cyl variants.

        FYI, Bob
        Last edited by sweetolbob; 10-01-2014, 09:34 AM.

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        • #5
          To give you a good answer we need to know your application and gearing. There is no way you are going to put a T56 6 speed on that housing or even the stock Stude 4 speed without a spacer plate. The S10 type trannys are too long on the pilot and will bottom out in the pilot bearing before seating against the bell housing. Speedway and others have hydraulic throwout bearings for $100-150, but the Quick time hyd. TOB is nice and easy to install. Just bolts to the housing with 3 bolts. They cost almost $400. The early Quick Time housings had enlarged holes that you have to dial in. If you have a later one that they have corrected, you shouldn't have any problems.

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          • #6
            When I investigated the T-5 (Chevy pattern as I have a 350) is was stated that Chevy never used the T-5 behind the 350 engine. Only the 305 and the V-6's (maybe a few 4's) got the T-5. So, if it is a consideration weigh the power level that it is built to. In general driving with a low HP engine it will be fine. But if you are HP incline I'd look to something other than a T-5. And, as already stated the correct T-5. It was never built for high HP and many were built only to the power level of the engine.

            That said, I have the (Ford) T-5 in my Turbo Pinto with 150,000 miles and it still functions well.
            '64 Lark Type, powered by '85 Corvette L-98 (carburetor), 700R4, - CASO to the Max.

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            • #7
              I used a Ford Mustang T5 in my Hawk, the 5 liter V8 version, rated for 300 ft lb of torque. It's mated to the offset Ford pattern Studebaker bellhousing. I wouldn't use any of the V6 or smaller spec T5's, they're rated for much less torque.

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              • #8
                TR-3550 .. the budget TKO. Plenty nice. T-56 is overkill and more costly.

                Tom
                '63 Avanti R1, '03 Mustang Cobra 13" front disc/98 GT rear brakes, 03 Cobra 17" wheels, GM alt, 97 Z28 leather seats, TKO 5-spd, Ported heads w/SST full flow valves.
                Check out my disc brake adapters to install 1994-2004 Mustang disc brakes on your Studebaker!!
                http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.c...bracket-update
                I have also written many TECH how to articles, do a search for my Forum name to find them

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                • #9
                  A hydraulic throwout bearing will require a whole bunch of fabrication to convert to a master cylinder for the clutch actuation. I was able to use the stock mechanical clutch linkage on my 61 Hawk with a very simple support bracket,made from a piece of angle, to support the clutch actuation cross shaft on the transmission side. It works fine, a hydraulic clutch would have been far more complicated to install. I used a kit from Dan Giblin for the conversion. He reworks the T5 front bearing retainer and sleeves a throwout bearing so that it is compatible with the stock mechanical linkage.

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                  • #10
                    Cable actuated clutches are pretty straight forward too. Usually they just anchor at a hole in the firewall and on a bracket or existing hole on the bellhousing. Ford used both a straight pull housing, or in the case on my previously mentioned Turbo Pinto a bell crank style on their T-5's. Where I ran into clearance issues with the cable/crossmember a simple bracket with anti rotate if loose feature offset the cable out of the way and the arms on the bell crank bent easy enough to stay aligned. Cables (or hydraulic) just seems so much better than the fixed linkage working with a flexing drive train.

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                    '64 Lark Type, powered by '85 Corvette L-98 (carburetor), 700R4, - CASO to the Max.

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