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  • Engine: engine noise

    I have a question on a noise in my 3R5 with a 259 v8. On the lower pulley of the van belt there seem to be some oil, someone called it a balancer and said it might need to be tightened. Could this cause a tapping and if so what would the correct torque to tighten them to? As for the tapping noise it starts when the engine gets warmed about 5 miles into the drive. I thought may be it was the valves that needed adjusting, but at idle there is no noise. Any help would be great. thanks
    Last edited by jbjr; 09-18-2014, 03:43 PM. Reason: spelling

  • #2
    A mechanic's stethoscope isn't that expensive and will help pinpoint the source of the noise. If you don't have one, ask around.

    A balancer loose enough to rattle will usually visibly wobble.

    jack vines
    PackardV8

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    • #3
      jb -

      There's both the main fastener that goes into the crankshaft that does most of the work holding the "damper" (not a balancer) on, and then there's a ring of 5/16" bolts that come thru from the engine side to hold the damper together and the pulley on.
      Either of these could be loose.

      You could also have a cracked pulley making the noise. Seen it before...

      As for your tapping...no clue..!
      As for adjusting the valves...if it's been a few miles since the last adjustment, yes, do this now... Follow the book.

      Mike

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      • #4
        The "Oil on the Dampener" thing is possibly just the Timing Cover Seal, a big job, and tightening bolts on it or anything that leaks Oil NEVER helps.

        Do check for loose Dampener Bolts however, as mentioned.

        The Airtex and other AC Brand "Copies" of V8 Fuel Pumps have been known quite often to "Knock".
        Look for a very small Pin through the case that holds the Actuator Arm into the Fuel Pump, it will work it's way out of the front side of the Pump, other than pouring a lot of Oil, it may or may not have some connection to the Knocking sound.
        StudeRich
        Second Generation Stude Driver,
        Proud '54 Starliner Owner
        SDC Member Since 1967

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        • #5
          I experienced a bottom end rattle once on a 289 when the crank bolt came loose and backed out about 1/8". The gear on the crank had walked forward and the crank was shifting back and forth under certain load conditions.

          With the OEM locking washer in place, it is near impossible for that bolt to come loose, but you cannot even be sure that washer is in place unless you are the person who last assembled the motor. But even if its not visible you can still feel it with your fingers.
          Given your description, unless you are personally sure, I'd still check that bolt's tightness, even if the washer is in place. Just never know what some folks will do/not do when working on something they are not familiar with.

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          • #6
            thanks for the help

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            • #7
              Is it an automatic ? Could be cracked flexplate on the back of the engine. Sound is transmitted all along the crank. Also, I have had piston skirt slap that is hard to diagnose, and exhibits the same symptoms.

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              • #8
                Jusy to let everyone that helped it is a valve adjustment which I will do first thing in the AM. thanks for the help.

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                • #9
                  The water pump can cause some different noises possibly when the water heats up the thermostat opens and causes the pump to work and rattle. The sound travels through the engine and it sounds like everything is ratteling. There is no leaks just noise.

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                  • #10
                    If it is a tapping noise when revving the engine it probably is the fuel pump.
                    61 lark cruiser
                    64 daytona 2dr hardtop

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