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  • 1950 Champion interior info, and parts needed

    Greetings all. Over the weekend I acquired my Grandfathers 1950 Champion. It has been in my uncles possession for the last 15 years, since my Grandfathers passing. My uncle very rarely drove it, and had it maintained by a shop who also stored it. That shop did a poor job with the storage, it was essential a mouse ridden pole barn. So the car has acquired a bit of that stink, but the interior is rather aged and a bit tattered anyway, so I am considering having the seats recovered/rebuilt, and the door panels redone as well. I searched around the web and didn't find much about these cars in regards to interiors. So question #1 is where might I find a provider of the pre-cut materials to do the job myself? I am not set on doing it myself, but I do not know what kind of cost I would be looking at to hire it done?
    I am not sure as to how long I am going to keep the car. I mainly just wanted to drive it for a little while to reminisce about the times when I was a teenager in the 80's and my Grandfather would let me drive the Studie on short trips, and how cool I felt driving such a neat car. Amazingly the car has only 29,000 original miles on it. I can remember the car having 26,000 back in the 80's, so it has not racked up to much mileage since then. My Grandfather bought the car in the 60's. I have too many cars, and not enough places to put them, so that is the main reason why I wont just keep this car forever.

    Question #2:
    There are a few knobs missing inside(shifter, wiper, and a couple of dash knobs) that I would like to replace. I am hoping to find used parts as to match the patina. I also would like to find the front end chrome, again in hopefully used condition but nice, as putting fresh rechrome, or repro parts on it might clash with the original paint.

    Question#3:
    The rear quarters have a gasket material where they meet the body. This gasket is rather deteriorated. I assume this is available, but how big of a job is it to pull off the quarters and replace those gaskets?

    I am including a couple of pics from the moment I got it home. It was raining when I brought it home so it gives the car a nice "clear coat" that went away upon drying! The car has not been waxed in probably 30 years or more, so with a little polishing compound to get the oxidized paint off, and a good waxing, the car should shine nicely.

    And wow, I forgot just how wacky this car is to start and shift!
    Attached Files

  • #2
    Brad Johnson,
    SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
    Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
    '33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight. '53 Commander Starlight
    '56 Sky Hawk in process

    Comment


    • #3
      Thanks Brad, that's very helpful info! I tried to search the forum but was not able to find Roy. I did find and look at Rene's offerings, and while they do look to be of exceptional quality, I just cant put that kind of investment into this car. I hate to say I need to go inexpensive. I am essentially looking to get the interior clean, even if not perfectly original. I know the least expensive way is to buy padding and fabric and cut and sew it myself, which is possible, but I am hoping I can find pre-cut seat covers that are at least decent fitting. I have not sewed before, and I am not really looking to learn the art. I can staple and squeeze pliers though!
      That's good to know the fenders are fairly easy to remove, even if a bit bloody... I will try to attack that over the winter. Another question is what are the steps to removing the seats? Do you just pull up and out the rear seat back, and then pull the seat out? Are the fronts just a couple of bolts on each side? Any gotchas that knowing about to make the job easier?

      I have not joined SDC yet but will shortly. My Uncle had been a member and has passed along an older issue of Turning Wheels from 1990. I am guessing most of those parts listed in there have been sold, and the magazine is no longer done on a typewriter!

      Thank you for the welcome. I am looking forward to enjoying my 'new' Studebaker
      Last edited by Iroll; 09-26-2014, 04:16 AM.

      Comment


      • #4
        Any forum member can be located in the "Community" tab at the top of the page. Here's the link to Roy's profile that includes a link to send him a PM or email.


        But I wouldn't be surprised if he doesn't soon weigh in on this very thread.

        Ernie does business as Loga Enterprises. Forth vendor on the list here. http://www.studebakervendors.com/

        Both front and rear seat cushions should pop out if you just pull up on the front edge. The rear seat back will be secured by two nuts at the bottom in to studs secured to the floor and then pushed up to release from the package shelf.

        I would also like to express my appreciation for these neglected sedans. Their market value does not warrant investment in restoration and many of them have been lost to history because their parts have been used to sustain the convertibles and Starlight and Business Coupes; those models with greater market appeal. These show up less and less and, I think, therefore should be considered worth more and more. I restored a '52 Champion two door sedan for a friend who spent well more than its value. But he loves that car; drove it over 2800 miles round trip to Springfield and brought home a First Place. It is worth as much to him as any Golden Hawk. Just compare it to any six cylinder two door sedan from any of the big three in 1950.
        Last edited by rockne10; 09-16-2014, 04:26 PM.
        Brad Johnson,
        SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
        Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
        '33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight. '53 Commander Starlight
        '56 Sky Hawk in process

        Comment


        • #5
          You can email me at roy.valdez@outlook.com

          Comment


          • #6
            Bob,
            The door panel in the pic appears to be very suitable for recovering. I made new ones for mine out of masonite and it was too stiff and hard to put on the doors. Instead of using the clips, I had to use screws to hold the panels on. If doing it again, I would use the old panels. They are made up of 4 or so layers of something like tar paper and are stiff enough, yet flexible enough to fit the contours of the door. Anyway, I would just use the original panels. Be careful when taking them off.

            First of all, on the 50 the window cranks come off by pressing in the panel and spring around it until you can see a pin that goes through the crank and the shaft that extends out from the window mechanism(I can't remember the term right this minute.) Examine how it works before pushing it out with a small nail or wire.

            The handle that opens the door from the inside simply comes off with a screw.

            All around the outside edge of the panel you will find wire clips that hold the panel onto the door. Be careful taking these off or you will tear the panels. I use a wide screwdriver or putty knife to get under these and gently pry them out. If you do ruin some of the holes they can be repaired with heavy tape. If you examine the panels while still on the doors you will see that even when new, they did not fit the doors very good. Knowing this will make it easier when you put the recovered panels back on and they do not seem to fit very good.

            Most likely the panels will slide out from under the window frame when the clips and handles are off. When putting them back under the window frame, put some tape all along the top edge so the layers of the panel and the fabric will slide under and not catch.

            You may want to replace the small amount of cotton on the panels with Dacron from a sewing center. It feels and looks soft and puffy under the fabric, yet is easy to press down in places like around the handles. If the clips are rusty, clean them with steel wool so they will slide back into the holes in the door easily. You should be able to press them back in with the heel of your hand.

            When recovering the panels, I would start at the top of the panel and staple the fabric to the panel in the center, and then work out to the outer edges keeping the fabric tight but not stretched. It does not need to be taken over the top as the window frame will cover it. Then pull the bottom edge of the fabric over the bottom of the panel and back up on the back side an inch or so. Of course it has to be drawn snug but not too tight. Just open up an office stapler and secure it that way-don't press too hard or the ends of the staples will come through the fabric. On the bottom you most likely have a stainless kick plate that will cover the ends of the staples if they do come through. However, on the sides, if they stick through it is a problem. I have used tape to hold fabric on to avoid the staple points coming through. Also,once the clips are on, if done a certain way, they will hold the fabric on to the panels while you put them on the door.
            Two suggestions:
            1. buy enough extra fabric so that if you were to ruin the first panel you will still have enough to do both panels. When I redid my panels, I used vinyl for the part above the stainless strip that is about 10 inches below the top of the panel. I sewed it to the fabric and then carefully pushed the prongs on the stainless strip through the vinyl and on through the original holes in the panels. Be careful to avoid cutting a thread with the prongs regardless of how you do it. Like the clips, use steel wool on the prongs to cause them to pass through things easier. When replacing the stainless at the bottom of the doors use the same procedure.
            2. Expect the process to take a lot longer than it looks like it should.

            The 4 arm rests in the car each have two bolts underneath that should come out fairly easy. I used a double knit fabric from Ben Franklin to cover mine. Since they were molded originally there was nothing to which I could secure the bottom edges of the fabric, so I added a thin board (1/8" paneling) on the bottom of each armrest to which I stapled the excess fabric. Then, I cut a piece of the same fabric the right size to cover where the staples were and used Elmer's white school glue to secure the fabric over the bottom. It dries clear so even if it comes through the fabric a little and being under the arm rests, it should not be an issue.

            I have pictures of nearly everything I did while restoring my 50.

            Originally posted by Iroll View Post
            Greetings all. Over the weekend I acquired my Grandfathers 1950 Champion. It has been in my uncles possession for the last 15 years, since my Grandfathers passing. My uncle very rarely drove it, and had it maintained by a shop who also stored it. That shop did a poor job with the storage, it was essential a mouse ridden pole barn. So the car has acquired a bit of that stink, but the interior is rather aged and a bit tattered anyway, so I am considering having the seats recovered/rebuilt, and the door panels redone as well. I searched around the web and didn't find much about these cars in regards to interiors. So question #1 is where might I find a provider of the pre-cut materials to do the job myself? I am not set on doing it myself, but I do not know what kind of cost I would be looking at to hire it done?
            I am not sure as to how long I am going to keep the car. I mainly just wanted to drive it for a little while to reminisce about the times when I was a teenager in the 80's and my Grandfather would let me drive the Studie on short trips, and how cool I felt driving such a neat car. Amazingly the car has only 29,000 original miles on it. I can remember the car having 26,000 back in the 80's, so it has not racked up to much mileage since then. My Grandfather bought the car in the 60's. I have too many cars, and not enough places to put them, so that is the main reason why I wont just keep this car forever.

            Question #2:
            There are a few knobs missing inside(shifter, wiper, and a couple of dash knobs) that I would like to replace. I am hoping to find used parts as to match the patina. I also would like to find the front end chrome, again in hopefully used condition but nice, as putting fresh rechrome, or repro parts on it might clash with the original paint.

            Question#3:
            The rear quarters have a gasket material where they meet the body. This gasket is rather deteriorated. I assume this is available, but how big of a job is it to pull off the quarters and replace those gaskets?

            I am including a couple of pics from the moment I got it home. It was raining when I brought it home so it gives the car a nice "clear coat" that went away upon drying! The car has not been waxed in probably 30 years or more, so with a little polishing compound to get the oxidized paint off, and a good waxing, the car should shine nicely.

            And wow, I forgot just how wacky this car is to start and shift!
            sigpicJimmie
            Orange County, Indiana
            1950 CHAMPION -ORANGE COUNTY, INDIANA

            Comment


            • #7
              Bob,
              The door panel in the pic appears to be very suitable for recovering. I made new ones for mine out of masonite and it was too stiff and hard to put on the doors. Instead of using the clips, I had to use screws to hold the panels on. If doing it again, I would use the old panels. They are made up of 4 or so layers of something like tar paper and are stiff enough, yet flexible enough to fit the contours of the door. Anyway, I would just use the original panels. Be careful when taking them off.

              First of all, on the 50 the window cranks come off by pressing in the panel and spring around it until you can see a pin that goes through the crank and the shaft that extends out from the window mechanism(I can't remember the term right this minute.) Examine how it works before pushing it out with a small nail or wire.

              The handle that opens the door from the inside simply comes off with a screw.

              All around the outside edge of the panel you will find wire clips that hold the panel onto the door. Be careful taking these off or you will tear the panels. I use a wide screwdriver or putty knife to get under these and gently pry them out. If you do ruin some of the holes they can be repaired with heavy tape. If you examine the panels while still on the doors you will see that even when new, they did not fit the doors very good. Knowing this will make it easier when you put the recovered panels back on and they do not seem to fit very good.

              Most likely the panels will slide out from under the window frame when the clips and handles are off. When putting them back under the window frame, put some tape all along the top edge so the layers of the panel and the fabric will slide under and not catch.

              You may want to replace the small amount of cotton on the panels with Dacron from a sewing center. It feels and looks soft and puffy under the fabric, yet is easy to press down in places like around the handles. If the clips are rusty, clean them with steel wool so they will slide back into the holes in the door easily. You should be able to press them back in with the heel of your hand.

              When recovering the panels, I would start at the top of the panel and staple the fabric to the panel in the center, and then work out to the outer edges keeping the fabric tight but not stretched. It does not need to be taken over the top as the window frame will cover it. Then pull the bottom edge of the fabric over the bottom of the panel and back up on the back side an inch or so. Of course it has to be drawn snug but not too tight. Just open up an office stapler and secure it that way-don't press too hard or the ends of the staples will come through the fabric. On the bottom you most likely have a stainless kick plate that will cover the ends of the staples if they do come through. However, on the sides, if they stick through it is a problem. I have used tape to hold fabric on to avoid the staple points coming through. Also,once the clips are on, if done a certain way, they will hold the fabric on to the panels while you put them on the door.
              Two suggestions:
              1. buy enough extra fabric so that if you were to ruin the first panel you will still have enough to do both panels. When I redid my panels, I used vinyl for the part above the stainless strip that is about 10 inches below the top of the panel. I sewed it to the fabric and then carefully pushed the prongs on the stainless strip through the vinyl and on through the original holes in the panels. Be careful to avoid cutting a thread with the prongs regardless of how you do it. Like the clips, use steel wool on the prongs to cause them to pass through things easier. When replacing the stainless at the bottom of the doors use the same procedure.
              2. Expect the process to take a lot longer than it looks like it should.

              The 4 arm rests in the car each have two bolts underneath that should come out fairly easy. I used a double knit fabric from Ben Franklin to cover mine. Since they were molded originally there was nothing to which I could secure the bottom edges of the fabric, so I added a thin board (1/8" paneling) on the bottom of each armrest to which I stapled the excess fabric. Then, I cut a piece of the same fabric the right size to cover where the staples were and used Elmer's white school glue to secure the fabric over the bottom. It dries clear so even if it comes through the fabric a little and being under the arm rests, it should not be an issue.

              I can tell you about installing the "gasket" but another time. Take care, Jimmie

              I have pictures of nearly everything I did while restoring my 50.
              sigpicJimmie
              Orange County, Indiana
              1950 CHAMPION -ORANGE COUNTY, INDIANA

              Comment


              • #8
                Thank you Jimmie for the truly exceptional write-up on the door panels. I believe I will try to get them off the car today now that I have much more confidence knowing just how to do the job! Yesterday I removed the rear seat bottom and back, and the tar/felt paper board that blocked out the trunk. I found a large mouse nest under the rear seat that made me wretch badly... But I feel much better knowing that it is out of there. I poured steaming hot water laced with bleach into each of the floor depressions under the rear seat, and let it sit for 15 minutes or so and then I shop vac'd it out. I did this several times to be sure I sterilized that area, and it helped immensely to get rid of the stench. The good news is the floors are totally solid, and I found a 1944 silver quarter under the seat! I do believe the tar board material on the doors will be reusable. It looks almost new where it is exposed. The lower sections of my panels, for maybe the last 8" or so, have vinyl. I am not sure if I will have to remove that due to how its fastened to the fabric, but I will see. I didn't see the stainless panel, but I didn't really look to good yet. I will report back on how I make out.

                I did talk to Roy Valdez and he recommended that I buy the interior parts I needed through Studebaker International, and he doesn't have any chrome parts for the 50 Champion.

                The observation about the sedans being neglected is interesting. To me as a Studie newbie, I actually like the look of the 2 door sedan over the non-sedans. I do understand that this car likely wont be a money maker, so I will cautiously proceed with the work I put into it. I drove it around the block yesterday and noticed a few issues. When I pushed in the clutch while driving the engine raced, which is probably just linkage that needs to be sprayed with lithium grease, but still a scary thing to happen. I also have a brake issue that I will describe in a new thread.

                Oh, and it was brought to my attention that Fozzie Bear drives a 2 door sedan, so if it is good enough for him......!
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                Last edited by Iroll; 09-26-2014, 04:19 AM.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Iroll View Post
                  Oh, and it was brought to my attention that Fozzie Bear drives a 2 door sedan, so if it is good enough for him......!
                  [ATTACH=CONFIG]37848[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]37849[/ATTACH]
                  Sounds like you've got the spirit, Bob ! We are all in our natural habitat !
                  Brad Johnson,
                  SDC since 1975, ASC since 1990
                  Pine Grove Mills, Pa.
                  '33 Rockne 10, '51 Commander Starlight. '53 Commander Starlight
                  '56 Sky Hawk in process

                  Comment

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