Steering: Need Help for Control Valve leaks !!!!!!!

[karterfred88]

My 63 Avanti continues to be a pain in the rear. On previous postings I was finally able to get the hoses to work, but I immediately started getting leaks from the control valve housing, once working. Since the valve assembly appears to have been rebuilt, possibly by a Ford guy as it is painted aqua, but appears to be Studebaker from the outside, I ordered new seals from SI and installed. The old seals were hard as a rock and broke coming out but didn't pour fluid past them. The new ones worked great for about 2 miles. First the cap screws started to drip. Then after sitting in the garage while working on brake problems, more drips started, now from the flange where the pitman ball sleeve attaches. I believe the new seals are not working. I pulled the cap and spool out and checked the direction of the lips on the seal and they are correctly installed. The spool itself looks excellent, maybe too good for its age. I'm wondering if it was swapped with one from some Ford unit and therefore my new seals aren't going to work, or it was machined and some substitute seals used. Can't tell by fit as it feels good in the housing and the housing is correct for Studebaker. Anyone know of a source for different size seals that I could try without going through 10 kits. Is there some kind of reference with the spool dimensions on the shaft so I can find out if I'm fighting a lost cause. I've looked at other posts but there was no follow up on their resolution, one of which showed no relief holes in the Mustang replacement spool, and then just had the ends of the original machined smooth, but no mention if the original size seals were used or a substitute with a smaller ID. From the way the seals fit and feel in the housing I'm pretty sure the fluid bypass is on the inner id of the seal at the spool itself. HELP !!!!
Fred

[doofus]

Autozone has New pumps and control valves, NEW, take yours down and compare. Luck Doofus

[doofus]

Sorry senior moment these parts are 65-66 mustang bits, check on line at Autozone web site. Doofus

[Mike]

The flared ends of the hoses at the control valve, seal against soft aluminum seats in the valve. These aren't included in the rebuild kits Stude parts suppliers sell; and often leak. Some Ford kits include these parts, and they may be the right size. They were meant to be replaced when the valve is rebuilt. There is a check valve you can't even clean without removing one.
Maybe these folks can help: http://www.stangerssite.com/CVparts.html .
I wouldn't try to work on one in the car. It's much easier on a bench.
Mike M.

[stude1964]

you could send the control valve to Joe Hudacek in WI. He rebuilt several of mine. He advertises in Hemmings
Rob in PA.

[karterfred88]

The flared ends of the hoses at the control valve, seal against soft aluminum seats in the valve. These aren't included in the rebuild kits Stude parts suppliers sell; and often leak. Some Ford kits include these parts, and they may be the right size. They were meant to be replaced when the valve is rebuilt. There is a check valve you can't even clean without removing one.
Maybe these folks can help: http://www.stangerssite.com/CVparts.html .
I wouldn't try to work on one in the car. It's much easier on a bench.

Mike M.

Well pulling the reach rod is not a possibility, and removing the pitman arm is a definite no-go. I'm forced to work on this "machine" in my garage, on my back with it jacked up. Unfortunately age has reduced my strength and mobility, especially trying to lift and hold the starter in place to put the bolts back in. Where is the "check valve" located, under which seat? Doesn't show on the breakdowns in the Stude books, and Ford uses a "compensation valve" not used in the Stude unit. I'm thinking some junk may have gotten in there due to the rotten condition of the hoses and seals, and the fluid coming out black the first time I tore it apart. I did clean out the seats as well as possible before putting the hoses on but if one needed to be pulled, I didn't, and wasn't aware of any check valves. There is absolutely no leaks at the fittings so the seats that looked good, were, and seal well. I'm sure I can pull the seats and replace them on the car if the Ford seats will fit--should as the early Mustang has the same size flares.

Fred

[karterfred88]

Well thanks to Mike I found out there is a control valve relief valve (under the return line flare insert cone), but can't see how to remove it from the valve to check and clean it. How do you get it out? If it's toast where can you get a replacement?? Currently the valve body is hanging by the remaining hoses under the car, pulled away from the sleeve housing.

[Alan]

The control valve kit from a 57 Ford works. I would have to dig for the numbers, since it has been a while and 2 different steering systems in my 63 since I worked on that mess from Eaton.

[karterfred88]

Thanks Alan, by using a 57 Ford on a Google search, I found a restoration guide that looks like a page from a 58 Mitchell or Motors repair manual that tells to how to remove the pressure relief valve and the flare seat. Unfortunately my saga continues. Got the valve body off the ball stud sleeve leaving it on the pitman arm, following some advise from BEZ on the Chuck Collins site while ordering another set of seals. Fishing the bump washer out, out fell the bushing. From the amount of goo and gray slime, I'd say it had been moving in the valve body. Whoever was there last put a bushing in cobbled from something else, split it, tried to make its diameter correct for the hosing cutting away some of it. That left a sharp ridge in the surface, catching the edge of the stop screw and wearing on it, catching and moving it in the casting and grinding the bumper cushion. Since all the vendors send these to someone to be rebuilt and need a core to build, I might be up the proverbial creek without a paddle.

[karterfred88]

Just a quick final update to close this thread. After some searching I finally found some exhaust tubing I could grind down to the proper OD and clean up on the ID to clear the rubber bump washers and stop screw. Talk about close fits!! The OD had to be 1.495 +/- 001 to slip into the valve body and 1.435 +/- 002 to clear the bump washers and stop, yet hold the "bushings" (washers) in place. Then the width of the sleeve has to be real close to exact so that the stop screw end can still fit into the end of the valve body and allow the raised ring to enter the valve body far enough to get a good tight fit at the flange and flange bolts for it all to work right. Well a couple of days work (probably 2 minutes with a lathe) and its back together. With the check valve cleaned out (no replacements anywhere) and yet another set of spool seals, it's not leaking ------yet. Wish me luck!!
Fred