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Removal of '62 Hawk Instrument panel

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  • Interior: Removal of '62 Hawk Instrument panel

    Hello All, NOOb to the site but I've had my GT Hawk since the '80s. I need to have a couple of gauges repaired (speedo, tach, clock & temp) and have no idea how to remove them! I took out the four little screws that are visible from the front but nothing is budging. What am I missing? Also, anyone know where I can get these gauges reparied? I'm in Oceanside CA. Thanks in advance for the help!

  • #2
    Even if you got the fake wood panel off, all you'd be looking at is the black fiberglass dash with holes for the instruments.
    You need to get behind the dash from the bottom, disconnect the wires/speedo cable, then (if memory serves?) loosen the brackets/fasteners, and bring the instruments with their chrome bezels out the front. My only real doubt about this is that the 4 small ones gas/amp and temp/oil pressure, share a single light bulb for each of 2 stacked instruments, which makes me think that they may be in a rectangular sheet metal box that will not come out the front.

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    • #3
      There is a sheet metal box behind the oil and fuel gauge on the right side and one on the left side behind the ammeter and water temperature gauge. The tach, clock and speedo have brackets holding them in which are also accessible from the back without removing the whole instrument panel. I don't know offhand who repairs the gauges. The clock can be converted to a quartz movement and the speedo is a Stewart Warner unit that can be repaired by a competent speedometer shop. Bud

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      • #4
        Thanks guys! I'll have a go at removing them from the back.

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        • #5
          I always found it easier to take out the drivers seat.....
          Get a comfortable pad and a pillow...
          Some good LED lights (that don't get hot)...
          Lay down on your back....
          Turn the stereo on low...
          Play some Barry White......
          HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

          Jeff


          Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



          Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

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          • #6
            Yup, once that seat is out you can even jam your heel into the rear footwell for traction.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by DEEPNHOCK View Post
              I always found it easier to take out the drivers seat.....
              Get a comfortable pad and a pillow...
              Some good LED lights (that don't get hot)...
              Lay down on your back....
              Turn the stereo on low...
              Play some Barry White......
              Ooh ba-by.

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              • #8
                Disconnect the battery!!!!!!!!!!! The wire to the amp meter is hot...

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                • #9
                  Eye protection would be good too before working under the dash!
                  Frank van Doorn
                  Omaha, Ne.
                  1962 GT Hawk 289 4 speed
                  1941 Champion streetrod, R-2 Powered, GM 200-4R trans.
                  1952 V-8 232 Commander State "Starliner" hardtop OD

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Chucks Stude View Post
                    Disconnect the battery!!!!!!!!!!! The wire to the amp meter is hot...
                    Great info! Thanks for the help everyone.

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                    • #11
                      Try using the Advance Search Box at the top of the page. Put in dash gauges..or other types of words.. You'll find a lot of information on restoration of the gauges. Try this link below....it's an old post.

                      Thread: Stewart Warner Restoration Supplies?

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                      • #12
                        As others have said, disconnect battery FIRST, remove seat, much more comfy!! Label wires and corresponding connections, take a pic or make a sketch if you can. If you're removing the clock, loosen the top nut but don't remove it from the stud, you can rotate the bottom out after removing lower nut, it's a pain to get that top nut back on! Might help on R&Ring the speedo & tach too. BE CAREFUL, the hot +12V gauge leads can be easily placed on the ground posts causing wires to smoke, it's a little hard to see things under there, especially with 70 year old eyes... Ask me how I know about the ground stud thing.... I usually make up a clip lead with a 5-7 amp fuse to clip between the battery post and the +12V battery clamp. If the fuse blows when you hook everything back up, something got shorted!!

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