Other: Steering wheel puller

[Scott]

Several years ago I bought a steering wheel puller from SI and I have to say it's hardly worth anything. I used it a couple of times and there are these washers that are part of the system and they stretched and bent and now the thing is practically useless. Does anyone have recommendations for a GOOD, durable puller? I don't use it often, but if I need it I need quality. Thanks.

[Gunslinger]

NAPA, Snap-On, Mac, etc. Some retailers have a tool loan program as well. I believe my steering wheel puller is from K-D Tools I purchased close to forty years ago. It doesn't get used often but it's never failed me.

[Flashback]

As already mentioned, there are a number of good ones. The one I use is a old Blackhawk tool co. one. This will pull a lot of different harmonic balancers also. There are several companies that make one like it. Shown here pulling a Grant adapter.

[Scott]

Those certainly sound better than the one I have.

[GinettaG12P]

I mentioned this before, but it bears repeating. Instead of using only the central threaded shaft to apply the pressure necessary to remove the wheel, try this: Take a strain on the central threaded shaft and when it is quite tight, screw one of the smaller bolts further into the wheel hub. The torque of the smaller bolt distorts the wheel hub so that it comes off the splines/taper easier.

[Scott]

I mentioned this before, but it bears repeating. Instead of using only the central threaded shaft to apply the pressure necessary to remove the wheel, try this: Take a strain on the central threaded shaft and when it is quite tight, screw one of the smaller bolts further into the wheel hub. The torque of the smaller bolt distorts the wheel hub so that it comes off the splines/taper easier.

Sounds like a good tip. Thanks.

[Scott]

NAPA, Snap-On, Mac, etc. Some retailers have a tool loan program as well. I believe my steering wheel puller is from K-D Tools I purchased close to forty years ago. It doesn't get used often but it's never failed me.

Do you know if your KD tools puller is part # 2291?

[Gunslinger]

I just checked...it is a KD 2291. I've had it for many years.

[SN-60]

As already mentioned, there are a number of good ones. The one I use is a old Blackhawk tool co. one. This will pull a lot of different harmonic balancers also. There are several companies that make one like it. Shown here pulling a Grant adapter.

That looks like a pre '57 column...so you're removing a VERY RARE Grant adapter there!

[Flashback]

Yep, that's my 53, and I also have another kit for sale.

[Scott]

I just checked...it is a KD 2291. I've had it for many years.

Great! Thanks very much.

[Scott]

Well this is just great (not really). I got my KD 2291 today (the package says 2291D). So I tried it out. The good news is that it has the right bolts. The BAD news is that it does NOT work on my 66 Cruiser (and won't for anyone else's either) unless it's modified. You can't get the two bolts close enough together. The center part of the puller will have to be filed. But wait! That's not all. The foot at the end of the main shaft is such a diameter that even if the openings in the whatchamacallit are filed to get the bolts closer together, they are STILL going to have interference with that foot. I might just barely work, but since I could not actually use the unit I don't know.
So to speed things along I used the new bolts with my old puller from SI (the one with the cheap-a$$ modified washers that distort after one try and become useless). The casting is not flat around the openings for the two thinner bolts; so the two bolts moved around and the main shaft kept going off center. In the end I did not get the steering wheel off and in the process bent the two bolts. Terrific. I wonder if I can get more flanged bolts like those. I KNOW I can't get them locally (of course). No hardware stores have flanged bolts in that size.

So still stuck. I can't believe this. And people wonder why I don't work on my Studebakers myself more instead of farming things out. This is why. A simple procedure turns into hours of searching for the right tool, finally ordering, waiting for it, finding out it won't work as "advertised". AARRRRGGG!!

[E. Davis]

I have an old Sears craftsman steering wheel puller. It has various types of bolts to supposedly satisfy any steering wheel situation. I have used it on other wheels than my Studebaker and loaned it out more times than I like to mention and it has worked every time. I think it was and they still are about 15 bucks. The mechanics of the device is pretty simple and I know people who have made their own to use in unique situations where nothing else will do.

[Warren Webb]

I had the same situation as Scott with the "store bought" puller so I made my own. I don't remember where I got a 3" round plate, 1/4" thick, drilled a hole in the center for a 3/8ths stud (3" long) & welded a nut to one side for the stud. Then drilled the holes for the bolts going into the steering wheel, filed them oval for clearance & I was done. It has worked for me years now showing no signs of failure. For "foreign" cars I'll use a common gear puller but for Studes, this one fits great.

[Scott]

I have an old Sears craftsman steering wheel puller. It has various types of bolts to supposedly satisfy any steering wheel situation. I have used it on other wheels than my Studebaker and loaned it out more times than I like to mention and it has worked every time. I think it was and they still are about 15 bucks. The mechanics of the device is pretty simple and I know people who have made their own to use in unique situations where nothing else will do.

Maybe they sell it online, but I went to a Sears store (one of about 6 different brand stores I visited) and they had nothing that would work.
The only reason I want to get the steering wheel off is to tighten the bolt that holds the signal lever in. It's been wobbly. It's amazing how many weeks and how much gas and how much hassle it's been just because I want to tighten ONE bolt.