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View Full Version : Fuel System: heat soak solved



erik64
07-03-2014, 05:36 PM
just a quick note to say Jeff's (DEEPNHOCK) kit solved my heat soak problem. It's been in the high 80's here in NYC. With matching high humidity. I took the hawk out for about 30 minutes (IT only took about 15 to develop heat soak). It started instantly Without flooring the gas. THANKS Jeff!

I also had an idle and driveability problem that a Mallory Unilite distributor, from Dave Thibeault solved. What a beautiful unit. I suppose the old Prestolite was worse than I thought, Thanks Dave.

Anyway my Hawk is running great now. Thanks to this board and your tips. I've used 5 Studebaker vendors with good success. Thanks to all.

RadioRoy
07-03-2014, 06:27 PM
Would you explain the kit, please?

GinettaG12P
07-03-2014, 07:23 PM
I think this may be the kit that erik64 is referring to:

Even with a composite intake gasket that is 'blocked off' on the heat crossover, you still need to protect the gasket from burn through.

I make a pair of small thin stainless steel heat deflector plates that fit between the composite gasket and the head to protect the intake gasket.
Sell them in an intake installation 'kit' complete with a pair of composite gaskets, a heat insulated 'stacked & stapled' AFB carb gasket, a set of stainless steel studs/nuts/washers to mount the carb...

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j54/deepnhock/IntakeGasketKit_zpsfedf0737.jpg

63t-cab
07-03-2014, 07:24 PM
I'm curious what this kit contains,some kind of baffles ?

Would you explain the kit, please?

wayne
07-03-2014, 07:28 PM
Do you sell them for a 232 v8?

GinettaG12P
07-03-2014, 08:04 PM
The information and photo of the kit is from Deepnhock. His email address is on the photo.

DEEPNHOCK
07-03-2014, 08:17 PM
In order for this to work, you need to have your factory heat riser valve
(a) blocked open, or
(b) Gutted, or
(c) removed completely
(and replaced with a spacer block).

All this 'kit' does it puts a thin stainless steel plate between the head and the intake gasket.
The thin stainless steel plate(s) protect the intake gasket from burning through.
All of the exhaust goes only through the exhaust pipes and does not flow through the heat crossover passage in the intake manifold.
This keeps the heat input into the intake manifold to a minimum (convection only).
The composite intake gaskets help isolate the intake manifold from heat.
The 'stacked' composite AFB carb gasket also helps insulate the carb from the manifold.
This 'kit' adds no height to the setup.
I sell it as a 'kit' to make it easier for the weekend warrior to install without having to chase parts all over.
Also.. In the 'kit' are stainless steel carb mount studs, and nuts.

Nothing secret or complicated. Just good parts.
It will fit on all Stude V8 engines (except R3 heads and intake), but I only sell it with the 4bbl carb gasket (at this time)
That would not be used on a 2bbl model, but the rest of the kit would work.

http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j54/deepnhock/IntakeGasketKit_zpsfedf0737.jpg

JoeHall
07-03-2014, 08:39 PM
Years ago, I put one of these on the 56J http://www.ebay.com/itm/Holley-108-70-Under-Carburetor-Heat-Shield-/310381690095?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item484430bcef&vxp=mtr It has helped quite a bit. I turned it sideways, so the long pieces extend out over the hot exhaust runners of the intake manifold. It keeps the carb from sitting in the midst of hot vapors, rising off the exhaust runners, when shut down hot. The vapors go outward,away from the carb. Short of EFI, I have not found anything to cure heat soak, but this helps a lot.