Credit When Its Due

[Pentax645]

I've used two of the advertisers from Turning Wheels. I had Lark Works make a harness for my 55 truck. I was amazed at the quality of their beautiful work. I also used Speed and Sport to repair and chrome plate two headlamp bezels. They came off my 59 Scotsman parts truck and were painted pot metal. One was twisted. They came back absolutely beautiful; true show quality. I'd recommend these firms to anyone.

[studegary]

Thanks for posting these positive comments (I have no connection to either firm). So often, people are ready to post negatives and forgo the positives.

[Chris Pile]

Yes, Donald Erickson at Lark Works is a superior craftsman. His family has long Studebaker history, and he is a 4 year grad from McPherson College Auto Restoration program. We are happy to have Don and his lovely wife Chelsea in Midway Chapter.

[BobPalma]

Right on, Chris.

I talked with Don and Chelsea at length during the 2013 SDC International Meet in Colorado Springs. Great people, and it is good to have younger vendors pick up this work. While Carl and Herman Thoms also make harnesses, they are busy with so many other things that it is good to have an additional vendor on line as the need for new harnesses increases.

IIRC, Don made the harness for the 1947 Woodie project. BP

[studelark]

Pentax645; I am the keeper of the STUDEBAKER SCOTSMAN TRUCK REGISTRY. I started the Registry about 10 years ago. I would like to include your parts truck in this Registry. All I need to know is the model code, serial number, name of the State where located and the owner's name or whatever is comfortable for you. No address or personal information is necessary. You may reply on this forum or to my email

f60s-w6@ hotmail.com

I would be happy to return the favor with an updated copy of the Registry. Thanks for your consideration.

Frank Drumheller
Locust Grove, VA
60S-W6
M16-52 1948 Boyer-bodied fire-truck

[JoeHall]

I have heard nothing bet good things about Lark Works. Hope and pray I never need to replace a wiring harness though. Some folks start with the wiring harness, and that may be wise. When my older brother began resto of his 49 2R, first thing he did was rewire it. He's kinda gifted that way, and set it up to support modern things he had planned for the truck. He's never had a minute of electrical problems, so maybe wiring is a good place to start, right after the brakes, of course

[Pentax645]

Every wire end is numbered and a wiring diagram comes with the harness so I think installation should be rather easy.

[DieselJim]

Phil Harris, Fairborn Studebaker is also a great vender. Stands behind what he sells. Excellant service also.

[LarkWorks]

Thanks for the good words Chris, Pentax645, and others! We work very hard to provide the highest authenticity and quality that we can. We take great pride in helping keep the vehicles we love so much safely on the road.

[Farrier1951]

So Don, How are your harnesses new and improved over the original? I am asking for my own education because I am going to need a new harness for my 63 GT. How long does it take to delivery and what is the cost? Are there options available? Thanks in advance for any information.
Jim

[LarkWorks]

Hello Jim, With your car you originally had the more modern plastic (thermo-plastic) insulated wires with a non-adhesive vinyl wrap. You also have molded ends where many of the terminals are encapsulated in rubber. What we would provide is a harness and cable set very much identical to your originals. Our mold cavities that we use to reproduce the original molded ends are made from original molded ends. I would say contact us by phone or email, our website is www.larkworks.net. Looking forward to hearing from you!

As for earlier cars that used cloth insulated wire originally you had a layer of a rubber(?) type material covered in cloth. The new reproduction wire starts out as a plastic insulated modern wire and has cloth over that so it looks like the original and even has a same overall diameter. It is also lacquered like the original but with a product that will only burn if exposed to flame, take away the flame and it goes out.