View Full Version : Brakes: Wheel cyclinders

06-03-2014, 12:11 PM
I have a 62 Stude. Champ 7E5 6cyclinder 1/2 ton. I was wondering if anybody know of and auto parts store where I can get rear wheel cylinder without paying 87.00 at International ? I need the part no. and store. Thank you Tom

06-03-2014, 01:19 PM
If your NAPA Store does not have a listing for it and can not order it, than it is not common to any other make and must come from a Stude. Vendor because it is in very limited production only to those that can afford to purchase Hundreds of them.

There ARE other Studebaker Vendors listed on the http://studebakervendors.com Website with slightly varying prices but not a lot different.

As Parts Manufacturers are now moving OUT of the American Car, English Standard sizes and Older Vehicle Parts fit business AND out of the Country, these will become outrageously expensive or non-existent very soon. :(

06-03-2014, 01:34 PM
You may find some help on page 11 of Nate Nagel's interchange reference list.


06-03-2014, 02:28 PM
Be very careful of parts house application listings. Rather than listing and inventorying numerous numbers they're consolidating parts numbers and while they might fit, they could still be incorrect...I found out the hard way. When I needed new rear wheel cylinders for my Avanti I went by the NAPA listing. The parts were half the price of the Studebaker vendors and the wheel cylinders fit perfectly. What was unknown was the cylinder bore was 7/8" when the proper size was 3/4". When the brakes were applied the rear locked up immediately due to excessive pressure. I ended up replacing them with the proper cylinders from a Stude vendor.

Just be careful and check it out when buying parts like that from a non-Studebaker dealer.

06-03-2014, 03:38 PM
...also, remember that sometime in the model year, the rear brake cylinders reverted back to a late 50's 4WD truck application pending the newer style brakes coming in'63.....I know for sure they changed for the V8 trucks.....7E7...

Neal in NM
06-03-2014, 07:47 PM
You know, there is nothing "special" about slave cylinders. The only critical thing is the inside diameter, the offset from the backing plate and the length. The offset and length dimensions have a pretty big fudge factor. I have sleeved slave cylinders as well as master cylinders and the only thing that has worried me is how thin they can get where the dust boot groove is.
I am waiting for someone to come up with a unique slave cylinder that I can reproduce in stainless steel. It wouldn't look exactly as an original casting but would be functional. Neal

06-03-2014, 08:53 PM
Can these be rebuilt with some O-rings and dust boots?

06-03-2014, 09:05 PM
N 34
My Dad and I rebuilt the system on our '64 T Cab using regular car V-8 cylinders. Fronts were 1 and 1/8 and rears were 7/8. They were off the shelf at my NAPA- not to take anything away from STUDE VENDORS but we needed them ASAP to use the truck. On the down side there was less pedal pressure but it smoked the brakes quicker!
Rob in PA.

06-03-2014, 11:30 PM
stude1964; you were able to do that ONLY because '63-'64 1/2 Tons use V8 Car Rear Cylinders and 6 Cyl. Car 1 Inch Fronts.
Also Front V8 Car Linings all the way around. The V8 Front Car Cylinders are 1 1/16".
These Trucks have the much improved Bendix style Star Wheel Adjusted Brakes, completely different than all older trucks.

The holes in the Backing plate are what controls the Fit/No Fit of Wheel Cylinders assuming the bore size matches of course. The only other issue is the Type Brake Shoe connecting provision in the Pistons and Dust Boots. This is why a "Slave" Cyl is not common to many.

06-04-2014, 02:28 AM
Can these be rebuilt with some O-rings and dust boots?Never knew late Studes to have "O" rings! I still have a few plunger seals that I got from a Dorman drawer a couple decades ago. Back then you could get new seals for 25 or 50 cents, hone your cylinders and be good for another couple dozen years. Now, instead of fixing and re-using a cylinder, the cost of labor dictates you throw it away and replace with new for a good "C" note.
Rebuild kits, if you can find them, have the seals and boots and maybe center spring for a couple dozen dollars. if you have a hone, the only part you really need is the seal and, I would bet, if you hunt, someone still has them for a buck! I know I have a few. Finding them is another story. What's the size?