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  • Engine: Crank case seal

    Is there a better seal than the rope in the front crank case. They always leak. Tom

  • #2
    Yes. Someone did up a modern seal sometime back. It's a "normal" (spring loaded neoprene) seal that is held in place by a piece of formed sheet metal that screws to the inside of the cover.

    Sorry, don't know where to get them. Hopefully someone will comment on their current availability.

    Mike

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    • #3
      Co-Operator Advisor Ingar Vik made the timing case seal conversions.

      Contact him through the information in and Turning Wheels' Co-Operator to see if he is still doing them. (AFAIK, he is.) BP
      We've got to quit saying, "How stupid can you be?" Too many people are taking it as a challenge.

      G. K. Chesterton: This triangle of truisms, of father, mother, and child, cannot be destroyed; it can only destroy those civilizations which disregard it.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by 9-34 View Post
        Is there a better seal than the rope in the front crank case. They always leak. Tom
        A little more information regarding what engine you have would be helpful. I know about "Felt" seals...but, "Rope" seals I am not familiar with except for some vintage equipment.

        In addition, most of the neoprene conversions, I am aware of, are for the V8 engines. As stated above, there are/were vendors that offer them.
        John Clary
        Greer, SC

        SDC member since 1975

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        • #5
          I guess its important to define "leak": seep that does not form drops; 'x' drops per minute, hour, day, week, month or year. Also, when it occurs, i.e. during operation or while sitting. Mine probably lose an ounce or two per month at that seal. I can live with that, though it does make spots on the garage floor, unless a drip pan is used. On the road, I consider any leak that mists the rear bumper to be a problem, and that seal never has resulted in misting.

          I think S-P wanted us to check the oil at least every 1000 miles; most of today's Stude owners probably exceed that ten-fold. So I have never considered that seal to be a problem. I have never seen an "oil tight" Stude, by today's definitions, but believe they were oil tight per standards of the auto industry 50 years ago.

          Noteworthy however, is that the retainer for that seal has a drain hole, which must be installed toward 6 o'clock. The four mount hoes in th retainer are equally spaced, so a person has a 1 in 4 chance of installing it right, if they don't pay attention.
          Last edited by JoeHall; 05-29-2014, 06:08 AM.

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          • #6
            I thought you had to drill that drain hole? The ones I have are solid except for the mounting holes. Also, drill an oil return hole in the filler block while it's apart to prevent the gear case from filling with oil up to the seal. Here is a link for the neoprene conversion:

            Bez Auto Alchemy
            573-318-8948
            http://bezautoalchemy.com


            "Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln

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            • #7
              3 Things to max the use of felt seal
              1. Saturate overnight in oil
              2. Drill weep hole in retainer
              3.Proper alignment to crankshaft hub

              Kim

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              • #8
                CR 20012. You have to do a little modifying the aluminum front cover and then put a speedy sleeve on the crank snout to keep the Acme threads from tearing up the new seal.

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                • #9
                  Sorta off topic...

                  But one thing most don't realize, when an engine is rebuilt, and the main bearing saddles need boring and or honing...if the shop isn't experienced enough to know how to do this WITHOUT moving the crank centerline...in relation to the cam, this will also screw with the way the crank seals work.
                  If the crank shaft is now on a different centerline, the rear main seal is in the most danger of leaking, with the front...somewhat in danger because of the way the timing cover in installed.

                  Mike

                  P.s. - Or the use of my adjustable cam drive fixes the crank seal leak problem...!

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                  • #10
                    Is this the mod you are looking for?

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                    • #11
                      It is very important to know what year and Engine we are talking about here, as no Post War Studes. used a Rope Seal except Packard Engines in '56J's.
                      StudeRich
                      Second Generation Stude Driver,
                      Proud '54 Starliner Owner
                      SDC Member Since 1967

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                      • #12
                        I am working on the August 2014 Co-Operator and just discovered an exchange with Ingvar Vik dated May 14, 2014.

                        He confirmed in that exchange that he is still doing the seal conversions on timing case covers. BP
                        We've got to quit saying, "How stupid can you be?" Too many people are taking it as a challenge.

                        G. K. Chesterton: This triangle of truisms, of father, mother, and child, cannot be destroyed; it can only destroy those civilizations which disregard it.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I have a 67 Mopar slant 6 that had "rope" seal (it's packing material). I rebuilt it and machine shop engine kit had neoprene 2 piece replacement. Didn't look like much but has worked well since 2001 and 60,000 miles. Slant has 40-45 lbs oil pressure.The ropes are a pain to install, lotta dinking around and trimming etc.

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