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  • Brakes: Help with stiff pedal

    After rebuilding / replacing the wheel cylinders and master cylinder in my 53 coupe and bleeding the brakes they seem to be working well. Loho ugh something seems to be off. The pedal doesn't have much of any play in it. The wheels don't lock up or anything however there seems to be a lot of pressure in the line because the brake lights stay on. Is this possibly just an adjustment issue where the master cylinder / pedal linkage is? Again the brakes seem to work great the pedal is just a little higher then I would like where the brakes engage.

    I hope that made sense.
    Andres Garcia
    Fairfax, VA - Philadelphia, PA



    1953 Studebaker Starliner - Check out this project!



    1963 Studebaker GT Hawk - Check out this project!

  • #2
    Try backing off the linkage between the pedal and the M/C If it is too tight, it will not release.

    Jim
    "We can't all be Heroes, Some us just need to stand on the curb and clap as they go by" Will Rogers

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    • #3
      Did you properly adjust the wheel Brakes? You need to tighten the adjusters spinning the Drum with the wheel & tire attached, tightening until you can no longer turn the tire, (on both shoes turn from the top down, which will be Clockwise from the inside on the Rear Shoe & Counterclockwise on the front), back each shoe adjustment off, just enough so you can turn it pulling on the tire.

      If you have upgraded to the much better '54 to '66 Star Wheel adjuster type, brakes it is a lot simpler, just tighten till you can't turn it, and back off 10 clicks.

      As Jim said if there is not sufficient free travel in the Pedal you may have to adjust the M/C Rod.
      These are usually fine as is unless you installed a New non-adjustable Rod that comes with most New M/C's or someone has messed with the original Rod.
      StudeRich
      Second Generation Stude Driver,
      Proud '54 Starliner Owner
      SDC Member Since 1967

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      • #4
        I definitely would not drive it that way. The pressure in the lines will cause the brakes to drag, and overheat in a few miles. Make sure you have about 1/16" of free play in the pedal before the rod bottoms in the MC to begin applying the brakes.

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        • #5
          Try loosening the "NEW" Master Cylinder cap; be sure it vented.

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          • #6
            If there is an adjustable link between the brake pedal and the master cylinder, you need to shorten that link. The piston in the master cylinder needs to be completely retracted in order for the brake fluid in the cylinder to return to the reservoir. If the return port is covered - as it would be if the link between the brake pedal and the master cylinder was too long- then the master cylinder would remain pressurized even when the brake pedal is released. The pressure-sensitive switch would also keep the brake lights lit.
            Originally posted by 52 Ragtop View Post
            Try backing off the linkage between the pedal and the M/C If it is too tight, it will not release.

            Jim

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            • #7
              Thanks for the replies I will try and test this tonight and see if it improves.
              Andres Garcia
              Fairfax, VA - Philadelphia, PA



              1953 Studebaker Starliner - Check out this project!



              1963 Studebaker GT Hawk - Check out this project!

              Comment


              • #8
                In adjusted the master cylinder linkage and it's braking wonderfully now. Thanks again for the tips guys.
                Andres Garcia
                Fairfax, VA - Philadelphia, PA



                1953 Studebaker Starliner - Check out this project!



                1963 Studebaker GT Hawk - Check out this project!

                Comment

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