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  • Fuel System: Ethanol in Gasoline Article

    Interesting Ethanol / Gas Article



    (copy)
    Ethanol Hates Carburetors!




    By: PB Editor
    Wednesday, April 2, 2014


    By Ed PrestonSources of InformationUnexpected ProblemsE15 and Build-Test IssuesStorage Issues

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    HTIH (Hope The Info Helps)

    Jeff


    Get your facts first, and then you can distort them as much as you please. Mark Twain



    Note: SDC# 070190 (and earlier...)

  • #2
    Alcohol is great for racing fuel, but not for the street.
    The only difference between death and taxes is that death does not grow worse every time Congress convenes. - Will Rogers

    Comment


    • #3
      If you don't drive it every day, or it's not converted to use modern (Alcohol Fuels), pay more and buy Ethanol Free gas...
      Here, I get it from CO-OP and it's worth every extra penny!
      I run it in anything not every day used.
      Weed Whacker, Studebaker, Lawnmower, Aircraft....

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Mrs K Corbin View Post
        If you don't drive it every day, or it's not converted to use modern (Alcohol Fuels), pay more and buy Ethanol Free gas...
        Here, I get it from CO-OP and it's worth every extra penny!
        I run it in anything not every day used.
        Weed Whacker, Studebaker, Lawnmower, Aircraft....
        Do you get much flack when pulling up to the pumps in your Cessna??
        Bez Auto Alchemy
        573-318-8948
        http://bezautoalchemy.com


        "Don't believe every internet quote" Abe Lincoln

        Comment


        • #5
          Hmm...and gas tanks that NEVER had ANY alcohol don't rust...!?

          I agree that 15% and up can cause much more problems thAn the more current 8% or 10% that most of the country currently uses...it's not to the "pandemic" state yet...

          Just like the leaded vs. unleaded fuel catastrophe of years past, we got thru it...the sky isn't falling just yet..!
          OR...the oil "problem" we all face. I'm still using Castrol, 20-50 in my "driver" 259, with zero iternal problems..

          Mike

          Comment


          • #6
            Well...seems like not long ago, someone posted a picture from the 1920's showing a gas station selling ethanol way back then. I don't question all the validity of information from the article...but when you look at who is publishing it, the associations of the author and credited individuals...there is some very "self-serving" motivation, to seeing that it is as widely read as possible.
            John Clary
            Greer, SC

            SDC member since 1975

            Comment


            • #7
              When I put my 1949 2R5 away in 1988 I thought that leaving the almost half tank of fuel in the tank would keep it from rusting. That turned out to be wrong. When I started reviving it in 2012 I found that the tank was not just leaking - it was completely disintegrated. The sender exists now only as the bolting plate. I think there was 10% ethanol in gasoline in 1988. I am glad I ran the fuel out of the carburetor.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Robert Crandall View Post
                When I put my 1949 2R5 away in 1988 I thought that leaving the almost half tank of fuel in the tank would keep it from rusting. That turned out to be wrong. When I started reviving it in 2012 I found that the tank was not just leaking - it was completely disintegrated. The sender exists now only as the bolting plate. I think there was 10% ethanol in gasoline in 1988. I am glad I ran the fuel out of the carburetor.
                You expected it not to rust after 24 years, left half full? You're kidding, right? Completely full or completely empty would have been better. Ethanol or not, all those thousands of cycles in temperature and atmospheric pressure sucked in lots of water, which went to the bottom. And laid there for a quarter century.

                For long term storage, the only thing which *might* work is to completely empty the tank, spray or slush the inside with a permanent tank lining material or good rust preventive, then seal it up, airtight. That's after you clean and paint the exterior.

                Tell me you didn't leave the engine half full of anti-freeze, the brake system half full, and the battery half full too.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by jclary View Post
                  Well...seems like not long ago, someone posted a picture from the 1920's showing a gas station selling ethanol way back then. I don't question all the validity of information from the article...but when you look at who is publishing it, the associations of the author and credited individuals...there is some very "self-serving" motivation, to seeing that it is as widely read as possible.
                  I recall seeing the same photo of the forum awhile back. Made me wonder about running E10 in the '35. Of course, some posters here say "if you don't drive it every day." Back in the day, those cars were driven every day, or at least once a week to church on Sundays. Maybe the storage/lack of driving is the primary issue when it comes to damage/disintegration?

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Where we live, regular gasoline has 10% ethanol; mid-grade has 5%, and premium has no ethanol. You may be sure that our '47 Studebaker and '95 Dodge Caravan live solely on premium!! When we took the '47 to the Northeast Zone meet in Rutland VT in 2012, we had no choice but to buy ethanol-poisoned fuel in ME, NH and VT. Using premium gasoline, fuel mileage dropped 17 per cent, which means it is actually cheaper to use premium fuel without ethanol than regular with it. Fortunately, when we returned to New Brunswick and filled up with ethanol-free gasoline, the fuel mileage went back to normal, and the extremely hard starting when the engine was warm also ended.
                    Bill Jarvis

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Please Your views and help needed- thank you

                      So can I assume that even though a remanufactured mechanical fuel pump with alcohol impervious rubber like diaphrams and such will still corrode along with the carburator? If this rings true then, the rubber issue has been addressed but still there ain't no way around this corn gas issue unless you can get alcohol free gas as advertised at certain pumping stations {if it really is} or buy this new bug juice at 10 bucks a bottle to treat 24 gallons of E gas. {yesterday I bought E-free gas in Florida and the sign said {recreational gas} Hope I did the right thing. Is this ethanol gas an extortionistic conspiracy aimed at us nostalgic hobbyist/car collector folks wallets? How bout this'n. What about Marvel Mystery Oil? Got some in my garage. I have used it sporadically through out the years. It makes me feel good. It has to be good, heck you can add it to gas and oil both. I really liked it when it came in those quart cans. Does any body here happen to know the ingredients or have access to a laboratory that could run some tests on it? Would this even be legal if one were to analize the stuff and make known the results? I don't think the Mythbusters would be interested cause their network wouldn't want a lawsuit filed at 'em. "Marvel Mystery Oil mystique revealed". Anybody? PM me the results/ingredients please. cheers jimmijim
                      Last edited by jimmijim8; 04-10-2014, 05:23 AM.
                      sigpicAnything worth doing deserves your best shot. Do it right the first time. When you're done you will know it. { I'm just the guy who thinks he knows everything, my buddy is the guy who knows everything.} cheers jimmijim*****SDC***** member

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by jnormanh View Post
                        You expected it not to rust after 24 years, left half full? You're kidding, right? Completely full or completely empty would have been better. Ethanol or not, all those thousands of cycles in temperature and atmospheric pressure sucked in lots of water, which went to the bottom. And laid there for a quarter century.

                        For long term storage, the only thing which *might* work is to completely empty the tank, spray or slush the inside with a permanent tank lining material or good rust preventive, then seal it up, airtight. That's after you clean and paint the exterior.

                        Tell me you didn't leave the engine half full of anti-freeze, the brake system half full, and the battery half full too.
                        Yes, yes, my hand is appropriately slapped. At the time I did think that I was doing the right thing. I did not need to be surprised at being wrong (I have done that before), but I was surprised to find the tank disintegrated. I hope I do not have to put any more cars away, but, if I do, then I will do something differently. The 24 years was not planned, nor was the 2 years, so far, to resurrect it, but time just evaporated somewhere.

                        I did not leave the motor half full of anti-freeze, but it became that way when the water pump seal dried up. The brakes drained themselves. I am replacing all the brake hydraulic parts. If I ever get the wheels back on I will try a starting.

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