Other: Wind Lace Restoration and RBS Carb Question

[64LarkLover]

Hello All,
It's been twenty years since I last owned a Studebaker, but I recently purchased a wonderful 1964 Commander four door sedan. Other than wear and tear on the exterior paint the interior and sheet metal is like new. The wind lace is original and complete but has begun to harden and shrink in sections. Has anyone attempted to restore or soften up the wind lace instead of replacing? Any tips would be welcome as I'd like to keep things as original as possible. Also, I reviewed the online tech talk over the shortcomings of the Carter RBS carburetor (it has the 170 OHV) as my car runs rough and idles poorly until warmed up. Is this carburetor really as awful as some have posted or will a competent mechanic be able to fix?
Thanks,
Rick

[r1lark]

I have not heard of anything that will soften up the windlace. My '64 Commander had the same issue.

As for the RBS, following is my experience. The rebuilds on mine only seem to last about 3 years or so before the stumbling, uneven idle, etc, comes back. The problem, IMHO, is that it's very hard to find replacement step-up rods with the small rubber diaphragm. I've had a lot of issues with the diaphragms going bad (cracking) which impacts the driveability of the car.

There is one other issue sometimes blamed on the carb, but is really not the carb's fault -- although the symptom shows up in the carb. The choke thermostatic spring gets its heat from a tube that runs thru the exhaust manifold. A small port to vacuum pulls air thru this tube and into the choke assembly, heating up the spring as the exhaust heats up and opening the choke. The metal tube that goes thru the exhaust manifold runner can rust out, and causes exhaust gases to get into the thermostatic choke assembly and gunks/corrodes it up. I had to replace this on my '64 OHV six.

There is a new 'universal' one barrel carb that is designed for the new fuel blends, from Daytona Carb: http://daytonaparts.com/universal-re...arburetor.html
Looks like they have several versions - a standard, and a universal (and industrial). Seems like someone posted on this forum recently that they had purchased one of these carbs to install on their six cylinder Studebaker. A search ought to turn up the post. This is most likely the direction I will eventually take with my OHV six.

[christophe]

Welcome to the Forum Rick.
I spent a lot of time on my 32 RBS (63GT Six) but it now performs satisfactorily and I intend to keep it. Here are some hints I can give to you.
There are very tiny passages in the carb body than can be easily clogged. I cleaned them with a very very tiny wire but the easiest way is to use an ultrasonic bath to dislodge all the dirt. I also had to remove a small plug near the gas pickup in order to get to one of those passages.
The choke assembly can became loose with the carb's body. Hence air leaks and a rough choke. This can be fixed by a little trough bolt. The lever affixed on the end of the choke axle can also become loose and cause the same trouble.
I've just found a backup step-up rod and diaphragm assembly. The diaphragm was furnished in the kit I got from S.I. and it can be replaced alone. So far, no problems after 3 years but this may be because I run on non-ethanol gas.
I recommand that you carefully read the shop manual to really understand how the carb works. This takes some time but it's the greater help you can get. If you need them, I can send you the rebuild sheet furnished with the kit that are more synthetic.
I read the thread about the conversion. It costs around 300 $ but seems to be worth it. There is a manual choke that can interfere with the air filter setup.
Hope this helps and nice day to all.

[rkapteyn]

You should use the search function on this forum.
Enter wind lace or windlace in the search box at the top of this page.
You can then find other posts regarding this.
What color windlace would you need?
I have original wind lace for sale.
Robert Kapteyn
studebaker@mac.com

Put Studebaker in the heading otherwise it will end up in the trash!

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[64LarkLover]

Hello All,
I had my Carter RBS rebuilt by a local shop which resolved some of the issues. Currently when I cold start the car no priming is required and the car fires up fine and warms up really quickly. It drives very very well and the carb responds well to my use of the accelerator pedal. An honest to goodness joy! However, the issue is now warm start-whether five minutes or an hour or so later-I need to crank the engine until I sense the carb "warming up" and finally start. In this case the rpm starts of sluggish and it takes quite a bit more time to warm up than the cold start. However, once warmed up the car the car again runs just fine.
Any suggestions as to this condition? I am running on oxy free gasoline but I have put a half a can of seafoam with the last two tank ups. A couple of related notes-I do sense some "creep" at stoplights, my fuel economy in stop and go is around 13 mpg, and there is occasional run on. Thanks, Rick

[irish]

You mention when you cold start the car "no priming is required" when the car is cold the proper procedure is to push the gas pedal to the floor, let up the pedal then start the car. This sets the choke and the fast idle on the carb, when the car first starts it should be running at a fast idle. It should remain at fast idle until you 'hit the gas pedal' again. Are you sure you have the carb and choke adjusted properly?

Joe

Hello All,
I had my Carter RBS rebuilt by a local shop which resolved some of the issues. Currently when I cold start the car no priming is required and the car fires up fine and warms up really quickly. It drives very very well and the carb responds well to my use of the accelerator pedal. An honest to goodness joy! However, the issue is now warm start-whether five minutes or an hour or so later-I need to crank the engine until I sense the carb "warming up" and finally start. In this case the rpm starts of sluggish and it takes quite a bit more time to warm up than the cold start. However, once warmed up the car the car again runs just fine.
Any suggestions as to this condition? I am running on oxy free gasoline but I have put a half a can of seafoam with the last two tank ups. A couple of related notes-I do sense some "creep" at stoplights, my fuel economy in stop and go is around 13 mpg, and there is occasional run on. Thanks, Rick
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[StudeRich]

You must have gotten actual Carb. issues solved, BUT did you read Post #2? You may still have issues with the Choke Heater in the Manifold.

Your Engine "run on" condition is most likely poor ignition timing (spec. is 4 Degrees before top dead center or "IGN" Mark and may need adjustment for today's Fuel) also your idle speed needs to be down to 650 RPM before shut down, and check with a lazar Thermometer for overheating at the Thermostat Housing, top and bottom of Radiator.

The only "real" fix for worn Windlace is NOS or New Material, requiring removal of the Headliner around the Doors in most cases.

[christophe]